How often should I flatten my stone in use?
#21
Jerry,

That's what I did several years ago--I got a 1' square scrap from a local shop. Just gotta find it!

Strokes,

I have a total of seven planes and hope that I don't fall into the rabbit hole of rehabbing planes!
Semper fi,
Brad

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#22
(10-27-2017, 02:05 PM)®smpr_fi_mac® Wrote: Jerry,  

That's what I did several years ago--I got a 1' square scrap from a local shop.  Just gotta find it!

Strokes,

I have a total of seven planes and hope that I don't fall into the rabbit hole of rehabbing planes!

I would suggest this then, temporarily, take a flat, 12" board, and double stick tape the plane blade to it... would work fine for limited use.
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#23
I use a coarse diamond stone because it is reliably flat.

Not familiar, but like Mr. Lang, I would immediately question how flat that bar device is and double check it.

I do know the Norton flattening stone I bouight was not flat. 

Personally,  flatten every time I use them.
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#24
Throw away your Norton flattening stone and get a coarse diamond stone. If you are using the 220 grit Norton stone to do flattening on, you would be better flattening on a cheap granite stone and sandpaper. That Norton 220 is so soft that it can need flattening every few minutes. I wore mine all the way down to the 100 grit side in short order. You can get a nice granite stone for about $25.

carl
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#25
Thanks for all the advice.  I really appreciate it!
Semper fi,
Brad

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#26
The Norton 220 grit flattening stone just might be the worst stone I've ever owned.  Ditched it almost as quickly as it took to purchase it in the first place.  I use a coarse diamond stone to flatten.  I alternate between an Atoma 400 grit diamond stone and a rather expensive Shapton diamond lapping stone.  If cost is an issue, 220 grit on granite or plate glass does just as well.  Generally speaking, I flatten any of the stones I've been using at the end of my sharpening session.  I start with the finest stone, and work down to the coarsest stone.  That way I don't have cross-contamination from coarser grits on finer stones.  For flattening the backs of chisels and plane blades, I'll take a swipe or two on a 1000 grit stone, and that will determine whether I need to use 220 grit sandpaper on a flat surface, or just continue with the stones.
Still Learning,

Allan Hill
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#27
Anybody use these?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-4-3-16-in.../100125277
Credo Elvem ipsum etiam vivere
Non impediti ratione cogitationis
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#28
So, yeah, you were right.  The Norton flattening stone is crap.  I was wondering why my iron looked dished--the outer edges weren't begin ground down.

This might have something to do with it.

I won't be attempting sharpening again until I can get a diamond flattening plate.


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Semper fi,
Brad

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#29
Oh my gosh... lol.
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#30
(10-30-2017, 11:51 AM)AHill Wrote: The Norton 220 grit flattening stone just might be the worst stone I've ever owned.  Ditched it almost as quickly as it took to purchase it in the first place.

Truer words may have never been spoken. That stone is so soft it dishes if I look at it wrong. The only stone that's worse, in my opinion, is the Norton flattening bar; as Bob Lang said, it just makes things worse. I threw that one out and use a coarse DMT diamond stone to flatten the rest of my Nortons.

As for the 1k, 4k and 8k Nortons, I've had mine for about 10 years. In my experience I've learned they work great on HCS, chrome vanadium, and some HSS steels. The do OK on O1 and W1. They don't do so well on A2 or PMV-11; they're slow and the grit in my stones is inconsistent so I get mixed results.
Jason

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