Bearings

[TadMcD]

For you machinist types:

I'm looking for a bearing puller to remove end bearings on the cutter head shafts (planer, jointer). I have some questions:

Can you recommend a good set?

If I'm careful, can I re-use the bearings on the shafts of the new helix cutter heads?

Do you recommend a particular bearing manufacturer and/or vendor?

I don't have a press; how would you recommend I put the bearings on the new shafts (I read about the freezer/toaster oven trick; does that work?)?


Yes, I know I should use new bearings on the new cutter heads. I'm hoping to do that, but just wondered if you can/should re-use bearings (plus, I'm Scottish and I can't bear the thought of tossing relatively new bearings; I don't have that many BF through my jointer/planer (at least, not relative to the volume some of you guys work through)).

Thanks

[fredhargis]

For you machinist types:

I'm looking for a bearing puller to remove end bearings on the cutter head shafts (planer, jointer). I have some questions:

Can you recommend a good set?

If I'm careful, can I re-use the bearings on the shafts of the new helix cutter heads?

Do you recommend a particular bearing manufacturer and/or vendor?

I don't have a press; how would you recommend I put the bearings on the new shafts (I read about the freezer/toaster oven trick; does that work?)?


Yes, I know I should use new bearings on the new cutter heads. I'm hoping to do that, but just wondered if you can/should re-use bearings (plus, I'm Scottish and I can't bear the thought of tossing relatively new bearings; I don't have that many BF through my jointer/planer (at least, not relative to the volume some of you guys work through)).

Thanks

Not a machinist, so you may want to skip this reply. I reused the bearings on my planer...not because I'm cheap but because I didn't know what size they were and didn't want to wait to get new ones. That was 8 years ago (+/-) and no problems (hobbyist use). I bought a HF bearing puller; the 10-12 times I've used it worked adequately, though I would like a US made one I just haven't bothered. I have a press for installation, but you can use a deep well socket that sits on the bearing race and hammer it on (gently). As for bearings, the name brands always come to mind (SKF, Fafnir, etc.) but I'd go with what the supplier has on hand....check for Bearing Distributors, Applied Industrial, etc. The commercial suppliers won't carry junk.

[JGrout]

I see no reason to replace new bearings as long as you use some care removing them and resetting them on the new journals 

a simple bearing puller set this is more than you need will do the job of removing the bearings 

Installing them with a socket the size of the internal bearing and a hammer will do this part just fine

I did my planer several yrs ago and had zero issues since

[daddo]

Pressed fit shaft bearings are usually removed with the intent to replace them. You do run the risk of damaging the bearings by cold removal, especially if you're placing any force on the outer race. Your force should be applied to the inner race only. Heat applied to the bearing up to 350 degrees will help a lot, but this can damage the rubber seals if there are any and the bearing should be re-lubed.
If the shaft is basically more than .001" larger in diameter than the bearings bore, the bearings may suffer if they are precision bearings.
A socket may sound good but it may be internally tapered at the end and could cause damage, even compression of the inner race. It is better to slide a properly sized collar behind the bearing then use a socket or pipe behind that to hammer it in place- do not hammer on one side then the other- you can ruin the shaft.
For a motor shaft no big deal, but if you're running a load/stress and high rpm, I'd be careful.

My two favorites are Timken and SKF. But be wary- they also have china counterparts as I have noticed.

[Cooler]

Bearings are not that expensive.  There are many sources for these and you don't have to go back to the OEM for them.  

When I would consider the amount of labor involved I would always use new, high quality bearings just so I don't have to re-do the work a short while later.

[AgGEM]

McMaster - Carr sells bearings if that is an easy source for the OP.

[TadMcD]

i like timkins, too. i use them on my 73 Triumph TR6.

way too long of a story, but i got all the bearings off without any issues. they're all pretty new. put in the helix head for the jointer and it's like buttah.

thank you all for your help.

[tomsteve]

I don't have a press; how would you recommend I put the bearings on the new shafts (I read about the freezer/toaster oven trick; does that work?)?

i did it a quite often when i did maintainence/repair on screw machines and worked great. 
for what youre doing,shaft in the freezer for an hour then bearing under a heat source for an hour. might need more time, but it should work for ya.
it would be wise to have a pipe,socket, or some hollow metal tube type thing the same diameter as the inner race to seat the bearing when its on the shaft.

timkin bearings

[mike4244]

For you machinist types:

I'm looking for a bearing puller to remove end bearings on the cutter head shafts (planer, jointer). I have some questions:

Can you recommend a good set?

If I'm careful, can I re-use the bearings on the shafts of the new helix cutter heads?

Do you recommend a particular bearing manufacturer and/or vendor?

I don't have a press; how would you recommend I put the bearings on the new shafts (I read about the freezer/toaster oven trick; does that work?)?


Yes, I know I should use new bearings on the new cutter heads. I'm hoping to do that, but just wondered if you can/should re-use bearings (plus, I'm Scottish and I can't bear the thought of tossing relatively new bearings; I don't have that many BF through my jointer/planer (at least, not relative to the volume some of you guys work through)).

Thanks

If the bearings are good you can reuse them. Heat the bearing with a heat gun or hair dryer may work too.
Probably 5 minutes or less and the bearing will expand enough to remove the shaft. Usually no need to freeze the shaft, just heat the bearing. Replace the same way.

mike

[WyoMade2]

As for a puller look for some clam shell type where pressure is applied to the inner race...such as:https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive...llers.html model #62593. Good chance you'll find the puller is worth nearly as much as new bearings.

Was a mechanic/machinest for many years here are some rules of thumb:
-if the bearing has shields (plastic-nylon) or seals (metal) coving the balls don't use heat for removal or installation, easy to melt the lubricant out of the bearing
-if you can see the balls (not shielded or sealed) heat is preferred for installation generally 250 degreesF but not greater than 350, at 250 degrees it should easily slip on the shaft
-installation without heat and using hammer and socket is fine as long as pressure is only put against the inner race, for c3 or larger fits, yours should fall in this class
-okay cheap and in a pinch for removal, if you can see the balls heat the bearing with a propane torch (don't heat the shaft) around 250 degrees take some soft metal (think key stock) and tap bearing off by driving on inner race one side then the other
- when bearing is off and cool put you finger(s) inside the inner race and spin it, if you can feel or hear roughness do not reinstall this bearing