Leather for WS3000 strop wheel?
#11
So years ago when I got my worksharp, there was a promotion for a free strop wheel with purchase. I moved shortly after, and it sat in a box for years, kind of forgot about it. I tried using it the other day, and the leather is super hard. I've tried looking to see if worksharp sells a replacement, no dice. Don't feel like popping for a whole new wheel. If I go to Michael's or AC Moore or something, what should I look for? Anything in particular? And do I put the smooth side or rough side up? 
Thanks!
Benny

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#12
Benny,

Does it say 'Powerstrop' on the side? Are there several ~1/8" discs laminated together mounted on a mandrel? My dad created that about 40 years ago. He sold the business before he passed away but I might be able to find some spare pieces still around. He had them punched into discs from a local leather supplier/fabricator. He glues and stacked the discs into making the wheel.

Carl
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#13
(11-02-2017, 12:55 PM)bennybmn Wrote: So years ago when I got my worksharp, there was a promotion for a free strop wheel with purchase. I moved shortly after, and it sat in a box for years, kind of forgot about it. I tried using it the other day, and the leather is super hard. I've tried looking to see if worksharp sells a replacement, no dice. Don't feel like popping for a whole new wheel. If I go to Michael's or AC Moore or something, what should I look for? Anything in particular? And do I put the smooth side or rough side up? 
Thanks!
.......................
You can soften hard leather very easily by charging it with mineral oil..be generous with it..work it into the leather..It will absorb lots of it..but it will work just fine even if it is a little hard..The beauty of power stropping on leather is it does not compress easily which reduces the possibility of rounding the edge over...Better even than hard felt IMO.
Either smooth or rough side will work but I prefer the rough side because it will hold the stropping compound better than the smooth.
Often Tested.    Always Faithful.      Brothers Forever

Jack Edgar, Sgt. U.S. Marines, Korea, America's Forgotten War
Get off my lawn !
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#14
What Jack said. Leather is akin to skin, and if yours dries out putting a lotion, or some form of oil on yourself will help rejuvenate you, add plenty of hydration, for us it's water, for cow skin Mineral Oil would work fine, allow it to get wet, let it soak in, and repeat as needed. Pretty soon it will be soft and pliable again. Just make sure not to go off on it, and rip it up by trying to force it too soon. It will crack and tear if you dig in sharp edges when it is really dry, and rough. Good things come to those who wait.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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#15
(11-02-2017, 03:37 PM)Timberwolf Wrote: .......................
You can soften hard leather very easily by charging it with mineral oil..be generous with it..work it into the leather..It will absorb lots of it..but it will work just fine even if it is a little hard..The beauty of power stropping on leather is it does not compress easily which reduces the possibility of rounding the edge over...Better even than hard felt IMO.
   Either smooth or rough side will work but I prefer the rough side because it will hold the stropping compound better than the smooth.

+1

Also, after charging it with mineral oil, consider charging it with a honing paste, a la the Tormek honing paste, a little goes a long way.  Link: http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.as...7090,67093
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#16
The paste will add grit, first step is to revive the leather, once done the paste is an option for a finer finish, just to clarify, it won't help revive the leather.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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#17
Thanks guys! I'll definitely try the mineral oil. I have some already, nothing to lose, right?

Carl it's not the power strop, it's a glass wheel with leather glued to it sold by worksharp.
Benny

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#18
(11-05-2017, 09:57 AM)bennybmn Wrote: Thanks guys! I'll definitely try the mineral oil. I have some already, nothing to lose, right?

Carl it's not the power strop, it's a glass wheel with leather glued to it sold by worksharp.
.................
Not a problem..You could even remove the old leather, buy another piece of thin leather and glue it to the glass with contact cement, crazy glue or epoxy..You could even "two-side" the glass wheel and have two different stropping surfaces..
To really kick the stropping up a notch, try charging it with 1 micron diamond paste. I have been power stropping on leather for many years now....
Often Tested.    Always Faithful.      Brothers Forever

Jack Edgar, Sgt. U.S. Marines, Korea, America's Forgotten War
Get off my lawn !
Upset





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#19
If I buy new leather, does it matter what I get? Or just go find some leather at AC Moore?
Benny

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#20
(11-06-2017, 04:41 PM)bennybmn Wrote: If I buy new leather, does it matter what I get? Or just go find some leather at AC Moore?
...................
I would opt for 4/6 oz. thickness in vegetable tanned..You can get it on Ebay..Oil tanned will work also...Horse or buffalo hide "might" be the best because it doesn't compress as easily, but you will adapt your technique to whatever you have..Just remember to hold the edge at a low angle...You might also want to use a black marker on the edge before going to the strop..That will tell you what angle to use while stropping..Hold the edge too "high" and it could round the edge over a little...Once you master stropping on leather, your edges will be as sharp as they CAN be. The lowest angle will give you the sharpest edge..The problem then is whether or not the steel can support the edge at that low angle...If it cannot, just raise it a bit and put on a micro-bevel. You are shooting for the lowest bevel that the steel will support.
Often Tested.    Always Faithful.      Brothers Forever

Jack Edgar, Sgt. U.S. Marines, Korea, America's Forgotten War
Get off my lawn !
Upset





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