Anyone increase a tablesaw dust collection connection size?
#21
I have a Uni with a 4" connection (nothing over the blade) and do not have an issue in the base, other than needing to go in with and air hose once in a while to blow it out. Why do you have problems with dust collection???



Al
I turn, therefore I am!
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#22
Hi Mike,

I have a Grizzly 1023RL that I  bought and modified for increased dust collection in 2012.  It has a shrouded blade with ~2 inch flex duct exhausting at rear bottom of the back of the saw cabinet.  The Grizzly design also has a rectangular shaped opening at the bottom of the back of the cabinet for interior cabinet dust collection.  Here is a photo of the 'as designed' rear of the cabinet showing these two exhaust holes.  Also shown here is a black marker pen outline of expanded opening profile I cut out while retaining the 2 inch opening in the cabinet ... see subsequent photos below.

   

I used my jig saw to open the rectangular opening to increase opening size to use a 6 inch dust collection fitting/duct while retaining the 2 inch shroud flex hose opening.  Here is a photo showing the new opening.

   

Then I used a piece of 3/4 inch baltic birch ply with cutout matching the enlarged saw cabinet opening and hand-reshaped sheet metal duct elbow fitting to make a screwed on mounting plate to my saw cabinet using sheet metal screws for attachment.  Here are photos of the assembly.

     
      
   

I've had this setup for five years.  I consider this very effective for dust collection ... I do not use an over-arm dust extractor.  This setup also enables me to easily/quickly pull out the sheet metal fitting from the baltic birch mounting plate for moving the table saw if/when needed.  The sheet metal fitting is 'friction-fitted' into the wood mounting plate ... tight fit.


Tom
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#23
Nice job on that, Tom.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#24
I done something similar to my 1023 as Tom did. I opened up the back for a 4 inch connection and got rid of the shroud and 2 inch hose. I also use a shark guard and collect all of the above table dust and most of the dust in the cabinet. Really big difference from when I first started to use the saw.
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Capt. Tony Tarracino


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#25
(11-04-2017, 05:41 AM)fredhargis Wrote: I do have an Excalibur on my ICS. The factory overblade just wasn't going to do it for me...so I sold it to a guy who wanted to put it on a Rigid. The Excalibur works really well, but now I have a New Shark Guard basket to put on it as soon as I get things set up again.

Not sure if the factory overblade you referred to is this one: https://www.amazon.com/SawStop-TSG-DC-Co...B005VDA3TO

If so, then our experiences were exactly opposite.

We used to have the Excalibur type overarm and everyone hated it because the tube was heavy and every time you moved the fence or raise the blade, you had to move/reposition the heavy overarm. But the dust collection blade guard ($139) requires no adjustment unless you need to make very narrow or dado cuts. The dust collection efficiency is far better with the blade guard than with the Excalibur type overarm.

I was surprised to see this new overarm option: http://www.sawstop.ca/saw-options/dust-c...on#options which has the problem we experienced with the heavy overarm tube.

Simon
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#26
Yep, that's the one I think sucks (in a bad way). Sawstop (as I understand it) bought Excalibur, that's why theirs is much the same as the one you don't like.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#27
The SawStop and the Ridgid have dont have the same riving knife system. Unless the buyer found a way to outfit the Ridgid saw or the SawStop dust collection blade guard, they are not compatible.

Simon
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#28
(11-06-2017, 02:48 PM)Handplanesandmore Wrote: The SawStop and the Ridgid have dont have the same riving knife system. Unless the buyer found a way to outfit the Ridgid saw or the SawStop dust collection blade guard, they are not compatible.

Simon

He told me there was a lot of info about the conversion on the 'net. Of no interest to me, so I didn't look. He had posted a WTB ad (here, I think) and I answered only because mine was taking up space on the wall.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#29
Sorry for my tardy response.  I was off on a mission to get a bunch of stuff down around the house before winter set in so I never did look back in on this.  Then work got in the way earlier so here I am.

Picture 1
I drilled a hole to the left of the main fitting for the blade shroud hose (3" hose as I recall).  I do not remember if I modified the fitting that was on it or if I put my own on.  The tough part was trying to come up with a way to adapt it all to a 6" DC pipe and blast gate.  There was not enough room for a wye, or any of the other parts I had so I took a piece of pipe and went to work.  Surprisingly it works really well.  I do not have a picture of the inside but I can get one if you would like.

[attachment=5591]

Picture 2
The inside of the fitting

[attachment=5592]
Dave
"Amateur Putzing in Shop." Northern Wood on Norm 5/07

"Dave's shop is so small you have to go outside to turn around" Big Dave on my old shop
So I built a new shop.  (Picasa went away so did the link to the pictures)
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#30
I'm not sure why I'm so hesitant to cut holes in my PM66 -- it's never going to be a collectors item, and I doubt it would hurt re-sale that much. Probably because I'm not sure it will help.
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