Bandsaw Box Blade Size?
#17
(12-04-2017, 10:07 AM)Woodshop Wrote: A WoodNeter recommended this guy to me years ago, and I have been getting all my blades from him. very good blades
Yes and never had a single one break at the joint like from other places.    Woodcraft Bands Inc

Woodshop thanks for responding I will give them a call and get one ordered.
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#18
Is everyone using or recommending for an all around blade size? I recently got into making bandsaw boxes after getting the Ventura book about them ("Building Beautiful Boxes With Your Bandsaw"). Her advice about blades kind of flies in the face of conventional bandsaw wisdom, but she recommends a 3/16" 10 tpi blade
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#19
(11-08-2017, 09:45 AM)Woodshop Wrote: I use a 3/16 14TPI Rake blade, for less sanding. I also have a washer for laying out an easy curve for the blade, on corners I don't want to cut any tighter. The easier you can cut a corner and keep the blade moving the better.
a 10tpi rake would be about the same but a little faster. The hardest part of BS boxes is the sanding. better have a spindle sander
Laugh

You touch on the 2 most important issues with smooth cuts, and finishes on bandsaw boxes.

1) Don't try to cut tighter than a gentle sweep, dimes are easy, smaller yes you can do, but they start making it tougher work, and a lot harder on the blade.

2) It's crazy to make a curve tighter than the smallest Oscillating sander sleeve you own, and can get paper for.

Points are different than curves, and yes you can use different tools to finish them, plus the cut is usually an in and out, rather than a continuous sweep. Looking at boxes others have made tell the tale.

Look at the pics, note where they are very tight, usually not so smooth
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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#20
(12-05-2017, 01:36 AM)lucyajones Wrote: Is everyone using or recommending for an all around blade size? I recently got into making bandsaw boxes after getting the Ventura book about them ("Building Beautiful Boxes With Your Bandsaw"). Her advice about blades kind of flies in the face of conventional bandsaw wisdom, but she recommends a 3/16" 10 tpi blade

I have a POS HF bandsaw, but I use very good quality blades, generally 3/16" x 12 to 14 TPI, rakers, and for the tighter cuts use a Carter small blade stabilizer Used on blades 1/4" or less. Absolute set up, and proper tension are required, but it rocks and rolls around tight places. I can cut a LOT tighter than I can easily finish. I'll stick with never going tighter than the smallest diameter sanding sleeve for my oscillating sander on curves. As I mentioned earlier you can use files, hand tools, scrapers and other on straight, or pointed tips. I do not like to hand sand, and unless you spend a lot of time on it, it will show the irregularities.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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#21
(12-09-2017, 05:48 PM)Steve N Wrote: I have a POS HF bandsaw,


Laugh
Laugh
Laugh  Me too.
Laugh
Laugh
Laugh  but they work well when tuned up and like you said, a good blade
Yes
Life is what you make of it, change your thinking, change your life!
Don's woodshop
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#22
If you don't have one, those Carter small blade guides are so much nicer for tight turns on a small blade than conventional block guides. I have frequently popped a blade on the edge of a guide trying to get tight. With the Carter guide it is running in a groove on the front of the guide, and tensioned properly it makes that HF into a Ferrari. I've never popped a blade using it.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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