Easiest way to replace below grade wiring?

[chrisntam]

I'm getting pool work done, the deck is coming out, so I wanted to take the opportunity to replace all the underground wiring.

Problem is when it rains, it takes two to four days for me to reset the gfci's.  I have no idea where the problem originates from.

Should I just have the electrician pull new wire into the existing conduit?

I'd rather have them replace the conduit and all.  House was built in '85, pool installed in '89, I figure now is a good time to replace it so it will last another 30 years.  After that, I won't care (I'm 57).

What's the easiest way to dig up the old conduit (I want to take out the old rather than abandoning it). 
What's the easiest way to lay new conduit?  I assume if I've dug out the old, just lay it back in the trench?

Just man up and grab a shovel?

Your thoughts?

[K. L. McReynolds]

Locate where the conduit exits from the house/electrical supply. Locate where the feed comes up at the pool. Usually a straight line. 

Generally, non conductive conduit is required to be at least 18" down, direct bury cable is 24" with conduit to/from 18" to surface.

If you ever wanted to operate a small hoe, now is the time. That is the tool to locate/remove old conduit. Once the trench is dug/conduit removed, simply install new conduit/wiring and back fill.

Two very important items. TURN OFF the electricity---pull the breaker to be sure. Second, assemble the conduit with the wire(s) in it before putting in the trench. If you feel it might be necessary to pull new wires, use 30° or 45° corners---almost impossible to pull new wire with 90° corners.

If you decide to just install new conduit, rent a trencher---more narrow trench, less back fill, faster dig time.

If you use direct bury cable, do not forget to install warning tape at least 12" above the electrical cable.

I like to cover the conduit/cable with a layer of pea gravel before backfill. Not AB3(for direct bury---too sharp). That helps reduce voids under the conduit during backfilling.

[FS7]

I'm getting pool work done, the deck is coming out, so I wanted to take the opportunity to replace all the underground wiring.

Problem is when it rains, it takes two to four days for me to reset the gfci's.  I have no idea where the problem originates from.

Should I just have the electrician pull new wire into the existing conduit?

I'd rather have them replace the conduit and all.  House was built in '85, pool installed in '89, I figure now is a good time to replace it so it will last another 30 years.  After that, I won't care (I'm 57).

What's the easiest way to dig up the old conduit (I want to take out the old rather than abandoning it). 
What's the easiest way to lay new conduit?  I assume if I've dug out the old, just lay it back in the trench?

Just man up and grab a shovel?

Your thoughts?

If it were up to me, I would replace all of the conduit and wiring. Conduit outside is tricky, especially when exposed to rain (or buried). I have found that anything that is not sealed WILL leak no matter what. Any threaded conduit adapters should be wrapped with thick (gas) PTFE tape or sealed with silicone thread sealing paste. Every hole on every box needs to be sealed with paste if the holes are unused. This is particularly a pain because most closure plugs have flat spots on them, which don't seem to serve a purpose to me other than to make it harder to seal.

Personally, I don't cement conduit joints since that makes replacement or repositioning an enormous pain. Silicone paste can be used there as well.

Also, use outdoor (silicone-packed) wire nuts for each connection. Your goal isn't to eliminate all moisture as that's not really possible, but you can have a junction box work fine for years even with water in it provided you use sealed wire nuts.

I would also tell you to use UF cable, but I am always yelled at when I say that, so I won't.

[Cooler]

I've been told that low voltage wiring is not required to be buried so deeply.  So consider low voltage lighting.  Hayward makes these.  You will have to check local code.

http://www.hayward-pool.com/shop/en/pools/res-lighting

[Woodenfish]

Underground conduit for this job is unnecessary. You should though use rigid as a entry and exit to the earth. The wiring of the circuit from the breaker box to an outside wall mounted box should be your standard THNN. From that point out it will be direct buriel cable. Your contractor should have a Ditch Witch for quick and easy buriel of the conductors to mandated depth.

[chrisntam]

Thanks for the advice, it is appreciated.  I'll be probing around a bit today, will start in earnest in about two weeks or so.  I'll be hiring an electrician, but I want to try to do the grunt work.  We'll see.

Thanks again.

chris.

[Phil Thien]

Underground conduit for this job is unnecessary. You should though use rigid as a entry and exit to the earth. The wiring of the circuit from the breaker box to an outside wall mounted box should be your standard THNN. From that point out it will be direct buriel cable. Your contractor should have a Ditch Witch for quick and easy buriel of the conductors to mandated depth.

This is what I'd do.