How to loosen jointer gib screw with worn head...need help NOW.
#11
Okay, so I was trying to move one of my jointer knives over a tiny bit to compensate for some nicks in the knives (that way that one knife will have clean spots where the others are nicked, and vice versa), and two of my gib screws holding the knife in place have heads that are so worn that the wrench won't grip them properly. They're an uneven diameter across their thickness if that makes sense. I'm definitely ordering new gib screws, but I can't even get two of them to turn. What the heck do I do? I want to get back to working on my project ASAP and so I need to get this done today. Thanks!
Near future projects:

-Curly Maple display case
-Jatoba and Quilted Maple dresser
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#12
A picture would help.

You can file a flat on each side and use a crescent wrench. (How much head- what type head)?
You can drill it and use an easy out. (What size screw)?
You can tack weld another bolt/screw onto to it. (How much room? How far is it out? What size?)
You can hacksaw a slot in it and use a screwdriver to remove it. (How much is sticking out)?
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#13
I was never able to get much of anything into the tight space on mine...I'd guess yours is the same(?). The only thing I can think of is take a smaller wrench and grind it open far enough to span the bolt head, then try to jam it on there enough to loosen the bolts.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#14
(11-21-2017, 03:39 PM)KingwoodFan1989 Wrote: Okay, so I was trying to move one of my jointer knives over a tiny bit to compensate for some nicks in the knives (that way that one knife will have clean spots where the others are nicked, and vice versa), and two of my gib screws holding the knife in place have heads that are so worn that the wrench won't grip them properly. They're an uneven diameter across their thickness if that makes sense. I'm definitely ordering new gib screws, but I can't even get two of them to turn. What the heck do I do? I want to get back to working on my project ASAP and so I need to get this done today. Thanks!

Grinder with a thin cutoff wheel. Have your new ones in hand first and just cut the heads off of old ones.

Alternatively, start with the next size smaller wrench and grind it open to a friction fit.
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#15
If I was mid project and had some lines on the board I planed, I'd just put up with it and clean them up with a scraper.  Once the project is done and the heat is off, you can fiddle with your gibs at your leisure rather than rush it and really screw it up.  I'd be inclined to give them a shot of Kroil or your favorite penetrating oil and let them sit for a while while I figured out the best approach to getting the screw out.  Mine are hex socket screws, six of them for each blade.  I just changed the blades out last night.  I try to be real careful when I mess with them so they don't get buggered up and make sure they are clean and lightly lubed before they go back in.

Phil
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#16
(11-21-2017, 04:18 PM)jlanciani Wrote: Grinder with a thin cutoff wheel. Have your new ones in hand first and just cut the heads off of old ones.

Alternatively, start with the next size smaller wrench and grind it open to a friction fit.

Funny thing is, I was trying smaller size wrenches (like the next one down I could find), which didn't work, but when I examined the exact size one (5/16") more closely it looked a bit worn. I bought another 5/16" wrench at my local OSH and when I tried it, it worked! I was able to do what I needed by offsetting the knives a bit from each other. Problem solved! I still need to get two new gib screws, though, as those two are still kinda finicky and could contribute to wearing down the new wrench. Thing is, when I checked Grizzly's website, their parts page didn't include my jointer. I have the G0452 with the standard 3-knife cutter, and the only one with that number I saw there was the Z model with the Spiral Cutterhead. They should still have retrofit parts for the G0452 even though their standard 6" one is now a different model, right?

And Phil S., my reason for wanting to do this wasn't really the lines. I can sand those out later. For some reason, I have a REALLY rough time getting a PERFECTLY straight face across longer boards when my knives are nicked significantly. Maybe I'm too much of a stickler, as any post-jointing bow greater than like 1/128" across a 3 foot long board isn't good enough most of the time for me. Still, I'm able to get it pretty much perfectly straight and flat with little or no nicks in the knives, so I thought I'd do it. I definitely got much better results once I offset the knives. I have a magnetic jig for the knives, so all I gotta do is take my time setting and securing the knives and re-calibrate my outfeed table until it's JUST right. That last part isn't too tough with a threaded wheel for the height adjust. Having my laptop next to me with music on also helps the process be less tedious.
Smile
Near future projects:

-Curly Maple display case
-Jatoba and Quilted Maple dresser
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#17
You got to love it when the solution to a big problem is simple.
Yes

I'm curious how the worn blades mess up the straightness of the cut.  My planer manual says to set the knives 0.004 above the level of the outfeed table so the become coplanar as they wear.  Maybe as your blades wear they get out of alignment with the tables and cause the messed up cut.  I'll have to mull on that a while and see if I can make sense of it.
Confused
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#18
(11-21-2017, 07:16 PM)Phil S. Wrote: You got to love it when the solution to a big problem is simple.
Yes

I'm curious how the worn blades mess up the straightness of the cut.  My planer manual says to set the knives 0.004 above the level of the outfeed table so the become coplanar as they wear.  Maybe as your blades wear they get out of alignment with the tables and cause the messed up cut.  I'll have to mull on that a while and see if I can make sense of it.
Confused

Yes indeed! Simple is always best!

As for the link between cut quality and blade wear, I'm not too sure. I do remember back to a few weeks after I first got the Jointer for Christmas in 2008, I ran either some MDF or plywood through on edge and I couldn't get a straight edge on any board afterwards. I know MDF and Plywood glue is very tough on non-carbide cutters, so I think it dulled the blades. I kept trying to get a straight edge and I'd always end up with a slight but significant bow. When I moved the fence over a bit and tried it again, the edge was perfect. I think I even tried moving it back to double check and I got a bowed edge again on the duller spot. Same thing happens to me with dull or nicked knives and face jointing across longer boards. The problem goes away once the cut quality improves. Not sure about the physics behind it, but I've made kind of a scientific (pardon the pun) connection between dull knives and boards that won't get straight.

One other thing I've noticed is that if the outfeed table is even just a hair too high I pretty much always end up with a bowed face. I think I've got that one figured out, though. I think it's because as the trailing end passes over the knives, it can lift the back end up by a hair and cause a BIT more wood to get left on towards the back. Lastly, I remember back in late 2009 I started having confidence issues with face jointing when I had trouble getting a board straight on a different jointer, so I'm sure at times my low confidence can mess with my technique. Still, most of the issues I've had are resolved with correct alignment of the outfeed table with the knives as well as adequate knife sharpness and condition. I just hope Grizzly still sells the exact screws I need. I'll have to give them a call soon. I think for the rest of the project I'll be fine, but I need to make the change once I'm done.
Near future projects:

-Curly Maple display case
-Jatoba and Quilted Maple dresser
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#19
(11-21-2017, 07:30 PM)KingwoodFan1989 Wrote: Yes indeed! Simple is always best!

As for the link between cut quality and blade wear, I'm not too sure. I do remember back to a few weeks after I first got the Jointer for Christmas in 2008, I ran either some MDF or plywood through on edge and I couldn't get a straight edge on any board afterwards. I know MDF and Plywood glue is very tough on non-carbide cutters, so I think it dulled the blades. I kept trying to get a straight edge and I'd always end up with a slight but significant bow. When I moved the fence over a bit and tried it again, the edge was perfect. I think I even tried moving it back to double check and I got a bowed edge again on the duller spot. Same thing happens to me with dull or nicked knives and face jointing across longer boards. The problem goes away once the cut quality improves. Not sure about the physics behind it, but I've made kind of a scientific (pardon the pun) connection between dull knives and boards that won't get straight.

One other thing I've noticed is that if the outfeed table is even just a hair too high I pretty much always end up with a bowed face. I think I've got that one figured out, though. I think it's because as the trailing end passes over the knives, it can lift the back end up by a hair and cause a BIT more wood to get left on towards the back. Lastly, I remember back in late 2009 I started having confidence issues with face jointing when I had trouble getting a board straight on a different jointer, so I'm sure at times my low confidence can mess with my technique. Still, most of the issues I've had are resolved with correct alignment of the outfeed table with the knives as well as adequate knife sharpness and condition. I just hope Grizzly still sells the exact screws I need. I'll have to give them a call soon. I think for the rest of the project I'll be fine, but I need to make the change once I'm done.

I have done tens of thousands of stuck screws in air craft panels.  I most of the time taken a the drive part and hit it fairly hard with a hammer to try in loosen the screw in the holder and then if it does not come out I drill the head and use a ez out.  Also there is a tool called a Johnson bar made for stuck screws which if one screw can come out then the tool can be screwed into it and then apply pressure to get it out.

It is like a screw knocker  

https://www.browntool.com/Listview/tabid...fault.aspx

Johnson Bar


https://www.browntool.com/Listview/tabid...fault.aspx


There was a guy in the Air Force who invented it and received a $5000 award from the AF for making it and suggesting its use.  How it works is one screws goes on the outside to tighten down and a socket with a bit and lean into the bar whole twisting the socket with a ratchet.  Really works great and now that I have found it I will get one.
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification.  Thank You Everyone.

It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
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#20
(11-22-2017, 07:37 PM)Arlin Eastman Wrote: I have done tens of thousands of stuck screws in air craft panels.  I most of the time taken a the drive part and hit it fairly hard with a hammer to try in loosen the screw in the holder and then if it does not come out I drill the head and use a ez out.  Also there is a tool called a Johnson bar made for stuck screws which if one screw can come out then the tool can be screwed into it and then apply pressure to get it out.

It is like a screw knocker  

https://www.browntool.com/Listview/tabid...fault.aspx

Johnson Bar


https://www.browntool.com/Listview/tabid...fault.aspx


There was a guy in the Air Force who invented it and received a $5000 award from the AF for making it and suggesting its use.  How it works is one screws goes on the outside to tighten down and a socket with a bit and lean into the bar whole twisting the socket with a ratchet.  Really works great and now that I have found it I will get one.

Hmm, interesting! Not sure if it would work at undoing a stripped nut if you can't access the top of that nut, but I'll definitely look this up again should I need to remove any screws from the top.
Near future projects:

-Curly Maple display case
-Jatoba and Quilted Maple dresser
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