How To Salvage My Wenge Finish
#7
Ugh. 

I have a Wenge slab that I have been working on. I finished the bottom with 4 coats of semi-gloss Arm R Seal, and let that cure. Looked great, but too shiny. So, we flipped the slab over and prepped it. I put one coat of semi gloss on, let it dry, then rubbed it lightly with 0000 steel wool to knock down any little nibs. I then applied a coat of satin, and it looked fantastic. However, I noticed some bubbles formed on the Arm R Seal as it was drying. It turns out it only does that in spots where the sun was shining in(black wood, bright sun, no good). Anyway, to knock those spots down where the bubbles had  popped required a little more pressure than a light sanding. I think I sanded too hard because I applied another coat and I can see the sanding scratches in the layer below. I attached a couple pics though it is hard to get a good shot. I know I will have to sand my way back, but what is the best method? I have seen people take it back to bare wood, but I have also seen guys wet sand with fine paper and water to get back to the underlying layers. What's my best bet?

Thanks!


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#8
I would be inclined to try a card scraper to see if it would take off just enough to get you back to uncovered wood. Best case scenario is you have a test scrap to see if you can do that with this open grained wood.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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#9
Steve's suggestion to use a card scraper is a good one.  Next time, DO NOT leave it out in the sun to cure.  Wenge is an open grain wood.  The bubbles were probably caused by the pores heating up and expanding before the cure was finished.
Still Learning,

Allan Hill
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#10
is wenge oily?
I don't know if its like rosewood where its too oily for finish to even stick . If you must you are supposed to wipe clean with degreaser right before finishing
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#11
(12-03-2017, 07:59 PM)Steve N Wrote: I would be inclined to try a card scraper to see if it would take off just enough to get you back to uncovered wood. Best case scenario is you have a test scrap to see if you can do that with this open grained wood.

This.

I used to get myself in trouble with sandpaper until I started using a card scraper.
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#12
(12-03-2017, 05:31 PM)misterstockwell Wrote: Ugh. 

I have a Wenge slab that I have been working on. I finished the bottom with 4 coats of semi-gloss Arm R Seal, and let that cure. Looked great, but too shiny. So, we flipped the slab over and prepped it. I put one coat of semi gloss on, let it dry, then rubbed it lightly with 0000 steel wool to knock down any little nibs. I then applied a coat of satin, and it looked fantastic. However, I noticed some bubbles formed on the Arm R Seal as it was drying. It turns out it only does that in spots where the sun was shining in(black wood, bright sun, no good). Anyway, to knock those spots down where the bubbles had  popped required a little more pressure than a light sanding. I think I sanded too hard because I applied another coat and I can see the sanding scratches in the layer below. I attached a couple pics though it is hard to get a good shot. I know I will have to sand my way back, but what is the best method? I have seen people take it back to bare wood, but I have also seen guys wet sand with fine paper and water to get back to the underlying layers. What's my best bet?

Thanks!

I always fill the grain (pores) with wenge. Id scrape it, then fill.....you should have no issue then.

Once Favre hangs it up though, it years of cellar dwelling for the Pack. (Geoff 12-18-07)  



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