Outfeed Table

[Philip1231]

30" long x 44" wide. Baltic birch with Formica top.  Fold-up legs and held to saw with a cleat and gravity. About as simple
as I could make it. Fold down won't work due to dust collection hose. This comes right off and goes right back on when needed.

[Tapper]

Have you seen these?

http://www.makingsplinters.com/2015/10/f...wstop-pcs/

https://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/show...hp?t=36545

http://lumberjocks.com/tedth66/blog/20963

For simple folding legs, use this bracket or something similar.

http://www.rockler.com/folding-leg-bracket

Some good ideas and tips for the fold down table - thanks!

Doug

[Tapper]

I have a work table set 1/8" below my TS with a 3' gap between that I span with a piece of plywood when I need to rip long stuff.  A fold up/down table just wouldn't be long enough for 8' long pieces, unless maybe it was hinged so it would be twice as long when completely unfolded.  I suppose a simple fold up/down table would work well for long stock if it then fed onto a work table, or even roller stands.  
John

Good point John - I've seen that you work with quite a bit of long stock. I'm looking to build something that fits the 80/20 rule, i.e. it will handle 80% of the ripping I do. For the other 20% I have roller stands that work just fine.

Doug

[Tapper]

30" long x 44" wide. Baltic birch with Formica top.  Fold-up legs and held to saw with a cleat and gravity. About as simple
as I could make it. Fold down won't work due to dust collection hose. This comes right off and goes right back on when needed.

Nice looking setup! I still like the fold-down design for it's mobility. I have a quick disconnect on my tablesaw dust collection hose so that isn't a concern. Right now I use this drop for a couple of other tools also.

Doug

[Hank Knight]

I have a SawStop ICS. It came with a warped table extension. SawStop sent me a new one. I found that the warp in the original extension was due to a warped support member in the frame. I replaced the warped support and built an outfield table with the original extension. I sawed it in half and attached one half to the "L" bracket on the back of the saw. I supported it with the original legs that came with the extension. I added a piano hinge and two folding/locking leg brackets to the other half and now have a folding outfield table that works very well. Photos:





After these photos were taken, I cut dados in the outfield table with a router and installed aluminum miter tracks for my miter gauge and crosscut sleds. You can see them behind the sled in this photo:

[PMJ1]

I used an old drafting table to make an outfeed table for my Grizzly table saw.  It pivots off the short wood extension with a piano hinge.  It also serves as an assemble table.

[Tapper]

Lot of great ideas here - thanks to all who have contributed thus far!

Doug

[measure once cut remeasure]

I have a congested shop but when I bought my table saw my first priority was a solid out feed table approx. 6' wide and 50" deep.

There is a 3' long cleat on the backside of the table that is used to clip in 1 or 2 pieces of conveyor roller that are about 5' long. The other end of the conveyors rollers rest on a rolling cart. The out feed table when used with conveyor rollers provide almost 10' of support behind the blade.

The out feed table has a formica laminate top, which works well for glue ups and finishing. Wood storage underneath and storage space for the conveyor rollers and a 6' long straight line rip jig

[WoodworkerTom]

Can't go wrong with HTC outfeed table. I have the larger size and can safely rip a full sheet 3/4" plywood.

[Cian]

Been debating doing something similar as well given my limited shop space. As of recent though, I'm more leaning on maybe building a router table (finally) and having that double as my outfeed, similar to this concept: