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I just finished building a cross-cut sled and have finished with a few swipes of Danish Oil. I want the jig to be as durable as possible and the bottom to be as slick as well. With that it in mind I want to add at least two coats of Polyurethane over the top. I have some General Finishes High Performance water-based polyurethane I want to finish the sled with.
How long do I have to let Danish Oil dry before applying the polyurethane?
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(01-02-2018, 01:54 PM)photobug Wrote: I just finished building a cross-cut sled and have finished with a few swipes of Danish Oil. I want the jig to be as durable as possible and the bottom to be as slick as well. With that it in mind I want to add at least two coats of Polyurethane over the top. I have some General Finishes High Performance water-based polyurethane I want to finish the sled with.
How long do I have to let Danish Oil dry before applying the polyurethane?
A good paste wax applied to the bottom of the sled and the cast iron of the saw will keep things slick. It will also offer some rust protection for the cast iron.
Wipe off all the excess though or you may have issues with applying finish that has rubbed against the waxy surface.
I would apply a coat of Seal Coat between the oil finish and the poly. I've never finished over oil finish, but shellac seems to adhere to everything and everything seems to adhere to shellac. So I would use that as an intermediary finish.
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what he said. Don't put HP Poly directly over Danish Oil. It isn't compatible. Let it dry a couple of days and then put a coat of Sealcoat or rattle can shellac on it. Then you can apply the HP Poly over that w/o worry of it failing. In the future, I would just use Sealcoat shellac and the HP Poly and forget the Danish Oil.
John
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I'm a bit of a contrarian here, but I'd just wax the top and bottom and leave it at that.
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(01-02-2018, 04:23 PM)Admiral Wrote: I'm a bit of a contrarian here, but I'd just wax the top and bottom and leave it at that.
^^^
This. But I'd skip waxing the top. You kinda want whatever workpiece you have on the top to sit still. Waxing would make it a bit slick. I would wax the bottom. There's no need to finish your sled like a piece of furniture. My sled bases are 3/4" unfinished BB ply. I did seal the fence (solid maple) with Danish Oil. Nothing after that. My sled has UHMW runners on the bottoms to make it run smoothly.
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Allan Hill
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Thanks I tried adding "Slip It" to the bottom of the sled when using it to make test cuts and finish some of the details. Without any dust collection working I ended up with a lot of dusty mess on the bottom of the sled. It still slid nicely but wanted an impervious bottom on it to then add the way so it does not gum up and collect dust.
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(01-02-2018, 07:26 PM)AHill Wrote: ^^^
This. But I'd skip waxing the top. You kinda want whatever workpiece you have on the top to sit still. Waxing would make it a bit slick. I would wax the bottom. There's no need to finish your sled like a piece of furniture. My sled bases are 3/4" unfinished BB ply. I did seal the fence (solid maple) with Danish Oil. Nothing after that. My sled has UHMW runners on the bottoms to make it run smoothly.
(01-02-2018, 10:56 PM)photobug Wrote: Thanks I tried adding "Slip It" to the bottom of the sled when using it to make test cuts and finish some of the details. Without any dust collection working I ended up with a lot of dusty mess on the bottom of the sled. It still slid nicely but wanted an impervious bottom on it to then add the way so it does not gum up and collect dust.
I've never put finish on any of my shop jigs. Some are 30 years old. I have dust collection on my machines. I don't ever remember much dust sticking to the bottom of my TS sleds, certainly not enough to bother me nor have any negative effect on my work.
John
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(01-04-2018, 10:34 AM)jteneyck Wrote: I've never put finish on any of my shop jigs. Some are 30 years old. I have dust collection on my machines. I don't ever remember much dust sticking to the bottom of my TS sleds, certainly not enough to bother me nor have any negative effect on my work.
John
Same here, though I have put wax on my table tops (like on my RAS). But most everything else doesn't get any finish at all.
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I believe the original color is some sort of cheap stay topcoat in one, but have found that the Danish Oil is almost a perfect match. I have already built finished and installed one set of the cabinets and they matched perfectly. A peninsula where their drop in range is being installed. For the back, I am going to install the sheet of veneered MDF with trim around the borders.
To finish the face frames and doors I applied the Danish oil then applied a coat of brushing lacquer, then sanded and wiped on a coat of satin wipe on poly to match the sheen of the rest of their kitchen. The lacquer bonded well to the Danish oil and gave me the build that I wanted. The wipe on poly gave the perfect sheen with no brush marks, sags, bubbles, or dust nibs.
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I'm also in the "No Finish" camp, or wax alone. I go with bare wood for the top surfaces too. I mark mine up when I want to. I put pencil marks on it to assist me in my task as needed.
I'd never heard of Slip-It, or whatever. I looked it up. You ARE using the type with no silicone, right? Do not introduce silicone oil into your woodshop. I wouldn't even use it on the bottom of a sled. Any product with any characteristic that suggests the possibility of silicone oil must say, "Contains No Silicone" on the can. If it does not say that, it probably contains silicone.
