New to woodworking - table saw advice

[kurt18947]

Hi Hank, 

That is a great find and almost exactly like something I was looking for! I am going to contact the seller. I really would love a Powermatic. Thank you for that. And that is a good Craigslist tip, I did not know that. 

What saw do you currently have and your opinion on it?

I have heard some bad reviews from folks at a local woodworking store on Grizzly. I am not sure if that is just because they do not sell Grizzly there. But, I have also read some bad reviews on forums. So, I am little hesitant to go with Grizzly. 

Yes a Jet 10" combination jointer/planer is what I was looking at. It is the JJP-10BTOS B3NCH 10in. Do you have any opinions on this one? I am trying to stay around

Re the benchtop Jet J/P I would not recommend that. I have a Jet JJP-12 and it does what I want. I find a  12" jointer is very useful when working with rough sawn boards. Re the two Jet machines, the Jet JJP-12 weighs around 500 lbs. The Jet JJP-10BTOS weighs 84 lbs. That might tell you something.

[TDKPE]

Here is the link for the unisaw. It is 10 minutes from my house. 

https://cleveland.craigslist.org/tls/d/v...59157.html

Assuming it starts and runs strong, and the trunnions are not cracked (a weak spot), I'd pay that if I was in the market.  They don't show the feet, but there's a chance it's a 4-footer.  Has the original art deco switch plate, and handwheels, and two CI extensions (very typical back in the day).  And motor, which will perform more strongly than a modern induction motor (there's language in the original marketing about higher breakdown torque than non-RI motors, which is probably true).  The smoothest, quietest table saw I ever ran was that saw, of similar vintage, with the 1 hp RI motor.

Many folks have a thing for vintage Unisaws (like me), but if you'd rather have something more modern, look at General, that PM66 (I'd be on that one, too), Jet, Griz, or even Saw Stop, though now you're getting into real money.

Sniff around owwm.com for info on vintage Unisaws and others, but if you join the forum, don't ask for value of a machine, as that's a big no no.  But you'll find a breadth and depth of knowledge about older machines that's hard to find anywhere but there (though many members here are also members there 
 ).

[Cecil]

I will pile on with the advice to buy a SawStop.  It is both safer and a good quality, durable saw.

However, I am aware of your stated budget.  I bought two used saws before buying the SawStop.  The first was a Shop Smith.  It was a great sander, a great horizontal boring machine, an OK drill press but a lousy table saw.  The SawStop was not available when I bought the Shop Smith. 

Next I bought a used Delta (1950's?) contractor saw, which I later added a Biesemeyer fence to.  I still have that saw and use it for items where I would need to bypass the safety device on the SawStop (cutting wet lumber, aluminum, etc.).  SawStop was available, but the contractor saw was not released yet when I bought the Delta.  Like you, budget was a concern.

So my advice is to buy the SawStop, but don't wait until you are old and can afford one, just to get started.  If there is no way you can afford one, buy a used Uni.

I hope I don't start any flame wars, but if you wait a few short years, there will be competition with table saw safety devices, which will likely drop the price.

[nmazzino]

Thank you all for the input, I really appreciate it!

When I originally started looking I was just going to buy the Saw stop contractor saw with a few extra goodies for around 1750$. Then I started looking into used and other brands and really was confusing things. Now I am leaning back forwards just getting the saw stop.

[Mike L B]

The motor on a contractor saw hangs out the back so if space is an issue a contractor SawStop has a bigger footprint than a SawStop professional.
The professional with a 3 hp motor and 36 inch fence is $2800, add another hundred for the 52 inch fence. It’s the same or less than a new Powermatic or Delta.
I don’t get all the whining about how SawStops are so expensive.

A cabinetmaker friend of mine has an older 5hp Powermatic and a SawStop and he prefers the SawStop.

A contractor saw limits you to 1.75 H.P. and you will have trouble cutting thicker hardwoods.

A 3hp SawStop professional will be the last saw you will ever need.

I’ve used older Unisaws and Powermatics and don’t get the fascination with them. Parts are going to be harder to find, customer service .... good luck.

You’ve said your a beginner, I don’t know what kind of instruction you’ve had but there are a lot of forces going on when using a tablesaw and if you don’t understand them serious injuries can occur very quickly.

SawStop has a very nice blade guard and a riving knife which are very simple to switch out and they will greatly reduce kickback. I’ve seen injuries from SawStop saws and injuries from other saws. The SawStop injuries required a bandaid, the other injuries were a whole lot uglier.

Rant over for now.

[Tapper]

Thank you all for the input, I really appreciate it!

When I originally started looking I was just going to buy the Saw stop contractor saw with a few extra goodies for around 1750$. Then I started looking into used and other brands and really was confusing things. Now I am leaning back forwards just getting the saw stop.

You cannot go wrong with a Sawstop tablesaw; it is the best of all worlds in my opinion. I have a SS PCS that I bought on their Field Test Program, when the saw first came out. I love this saw and it will probably be my last. It gets used for something most days.

Doug

[nmazzino]

The motor on a contractor saw hangs out the back so if space is an issue a contractor SawStop has a bigger footprint than a SawStop professional.
The professional with a 3 hp motor and 36 inch fence is $2800, add another hundred for the 52 inch fence. It’s the same or less than a new Powermatic or Delta.
I don’t get all the whining about how SawStops are so expensive.

A cabinetmaker friend of mine has an older 5hp Powermatic and a SawStop and he prefers the SawStop.

A contractor saw limits you to 1.75 H.P. and you will have trouble cutting thicker hardwoods.

A 3hp SawStop professional will be the last saw you will ever need.

I’ve used older Unisaws and Powermatics and don’t get the fascination with them. Parts are going to be harder to find, customer service .... good luck.

You’ve said your a beginner, I don’t know what kind of instruction you’ve had but there are a lot of forces going on when using a tablesaw and if you don’t understand them serious injuries can occur very quickly.

SawStop has a very nice blade guard and a riving knife which are very simple to switch out and they will greatly reduce kickback. I’ve seen injuries from SawStop saws and injuries from other saws. The SawStop injuries required a bandaid, the other injuries were a whole lot uglier.

Rant over for now.

Hi Mike, thank you for this reply this is very helpful. I had around 3k I will be able to spend over probably the next year or two on setting up a wood shop and need a table saw and jointer/planer to get started. I would love to get the 3hp. However, the dealer by me that sells them does not offer financing and unfortunately I cannot afford one at the moment. I looked around for used ones but it seems they are very hard to come by. 

And yes, I am a very new beginner and would really like to have the safety feature on the sawstop.

[fishhh4]

Youngstown CL

Auroa

Massillon fence for saw

Akron / Canton

A hundred dollar bill...
can of rustoleum a little elbow grease

[gov.cheese]

Youngstown CL

Auroa

Massillon fence for saw

Akron / Canton

A hundred dollar bill...
A little elbow grease can of Rustoleum in Cleveland
[/url]
Boise Crane in Macedonia

[url=https://cleveland.craigslist.org/tls/d/boise-crane-table-saw/6441919730.html]

Heck of a deal on that Vega fence and the Uni in Youngstown is definitely worth a look.

[TDKPE]

. . . the Uni in Youngstown is definitely worth a look.

I'm just a little concerned about the single- vs three-phase mention.

"10" unisaw with extended table and Unifence system. 3 hp 1 ph or 3hp 3 ph, Good shape, ready to work "

May be a 3-phase machine running on a phase converter or VFD.