Need suggestions for refinishing countertop.
#11
My neighbor has asked for advice on refinishing his countertop.  I have a pretty good idea on how it needs to be done but being that it is a double layer of plywood I am a little more cautious since there is a potential of ruining the surface or going too deep when sanding through the top layer.

I think the home is about 15 years old, so so is the countertop.  It is only worn through in one or two spots.  Before I knew it was plywood I suggested stripping it, sanding it and applying a waterbased wipe-on polyurethane, then adding another coat every 5 years.  

Being plywood is there another way this should be treated?
Is there a way to just repair the worn area?


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A carpenter's house is never done.
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#12
Photo of the damage


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#13
Strip the finish. Make really wide sanding block and use the sticky sandpaper to try to level this out a bit.

I used 4 coats of oil based poly on my countertops two years ago and they still look brand new.  I did wait 7 days for a full cure before using it however and I recommend that you do the same.

You can level it a bit by sanding between coats and using a heavy coats (I brushed on and let gravity level the finish.

I used the same finish on tables I refinished for the local Starbucks and they were in excellent shape 10 years later when they retired them.  And that is commercial use with daily wiping of 10 or more times per day.
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#14
Do you have the ability to spray finish? If so, strip it with a MEK stripper, rinse and thoroughly dry, then sand lightly. Spray on at least two coats of  a catalyzed (conversion) varnish. It's pricey, but extremely durable stuff.

With that water nearby, I'd avoid using any (oil or water base) polyurethane from a big box.

If spraying is not an option, strip as above and at least brush on  a marine finish.

Have you consulted  the folks at a real paint store?
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#15
(01-15-2018, 02:04 PM)Kreuzie Wrote: Do you have the ability to spray finish? If so, strip it with a MEK stripper, rinse and thoroughly dry, then sand lightly. Spray on at least two coats of  a catalyzed (conversion) varnish. It's pricey, but extremely durable stuff.

With that water nearby, I'd avoid using any (oil or water base) polyurethane from a big box.

If spraying is not an option, strip as above and at least brush on  a marine finish.

Have you consulted  the folks at a real paint store?
There seems to be some prejudice against readily available products that "any Aunt Millie" or "Uncle Joe" can get at the local store.

Minwax's oil based poly scores at or near the top in all the categories in all the magazine tests I've seen. 

Pre-catalized lacquer is superior to regular lacquer and cures faster and harder.  It cures faster than oil based poly, but I've never seen literature that claims that a full cured poly is softer than a pre-cat lacquer.  

Oil based poly will "full cure" in 200 hours, and will actually get harder over the years.  I have a oak mini-shelf that I coated 20 years ago and it is tougher than anything cured 200 hours.

Pre-cat and especially "UV" finishes are a benefit to production, certainly.  The "UV" refers to UV cured and not UV resistant.  It dries faster and allows faster through-put in the factory.  My experience is that an oil based clear will outperform the UV factory finishes.
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#16
(01-15-2018, 02:04 PM)Kreuzie Wrote: Do you have the ability to spray finish? If so, strip it with a MEK stripper, rinse and thoroughly dry, then sand lightly. Spray on at least two coats of  a catalyzed (conversion) varnish. It's pricey, but extremely durable stuff.

With that water nearby, I'd avoid using any (oil or water base) polyurethane from a big box.

If spraying is not an option, strip as above and at least brush on  a marine finish.

Have you consulted  the folks at a real paint store?
For the record this is my neighbors countertop.  I am just consulting with him on this project.  I will loan him any tool and talk him through it.  When it is time to take on a staining/finishing project, my house is full of them.

I do have a compressor and harbor freight spray gun and a Arlex.  All recently bought but I have no experience with it.

I also have an account with Sherwin Williams, I can consult with them on this.  They sold me a minwax product when I last visited.  It has been a while since I have used it but did not like it back then.  I may have improved my skills over the years or just prefer my recent work with General Finishes.
A carpenter's house is never done.
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#17
If it were mine I’d do a new countertop being it’s plywood and stripping finish is not a fun job. Probably not what your neighbor wants to hear.


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#18
I agree with Fireslayer. Depending on the size of the top, the degree of difficulty to remove and replace it and what's entailed to reproduce it, you would end up with a better looking top and a he**uvalot less time, labor, materials, mess and frustration!

From the picture, it looks like white oak plywood, probably not too difficult to find. Or use another flavor. Just my thoughts.
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#19
(01-16-2018, 03:37 PM)Kansas City Fireslayer Wrote: If it were mine I’d do a new countertop being it’s plywood and stripping finish is not a fun job.  Probably not what your neighbor wants to hear.

Well, coming in late to this thread, but that plywood countertop is just 'butt-ugly', sorry - I'd have to agree w/ KCFireslayer - of course, depending on your neighbor's budget; plus, not sure how 'large' that counter may be?  A replacement w/ a wood top thicker than a plywood veneer (even on top of particle board) would be much more durable - finish as suggested.  Of course, there are other options, even an inexpensive formica top - but if the budget can handle more expense, a solid surface top would be a consideration - 16 years ago, wife & I redid our kitchen and replaced the counters w/ a laminated solid surface (our installer used a Wilsonart product, like Corian) - still looks new w/o any maintenance.  Just my thoughts - Dave
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Piedmont North Carolina
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#20
(01-16-2018, 03:37 PM)Kansas City Fireslayer Wrote: If it were mine I’d do a new countertop being it’s plywood and stripping finish is not a fun job.  Probably not what your neighbor wants to hear.
I was shocked when I saw it was plywood surface.  This is a nice house in a nice neighborhood, not what i would have chosen as a finishing touch on a high end house.

I doubt he is going to want to replace it.  It is a very long counter, wrapping the kitchen on two sides.  I would guess 14 linear feet or more.  It would be a significant effort to replace especially since he has no carpentry or woodworking skills as far as I know.  Getting anyone to help locally is either impossible or cost prohibitive.

I will be passing on all suggestions when he is ready to do the job.  I am guessing he will wait till spring when he can open the windows in the house.
A carpenter's house is never done.
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