Arranging new shop - advice appreciated!
#30
What are the dimensions that you used for your equipment ?
My .02
Karl




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#31
(01-13-2018, 10:29 AM)Splinter Puller Wrote: In two of my shops I've had my jointer tucked up tight to my tablesaw island.     It saves space and the work flow is great as you often joint and rip boards in that order.   I did have to remove the fence handle.   My outfeed table is a second tablesaw if the picture is confusing.


I need to now check to see if my jointer can tuck up next to my table saw.  It's the one tool in my garage that's just always in the way/takes up the most space vs how much I use it.
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#32
(01-14-2018, 12:57 AM)Hank Knight Wrote: ......My layout has changed probably a dozen times during that time as I slowly figured out what worked and what didn't. It has remained relatively stable for the last five or six years, so I guess I've settled on what works best for me in my space. My advice is to be flexible with your layout. Don't nail anything down permanent for a while; it will change. 

Got to side with Hank on this one. I have a very large shop but I have big projects in there too. The only thing that hasn't moved in my shop was my RAS work station. But it is 16+ feet and will only really fit one wall. Everything else has moved as I have worked in the shop and learned how I wanted it.  Everyone is different but mine looks nothing like it started out.
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#33
(01-17-2018, 11:50 AM)greatscott Wrote: I need to now check to see if my jointer can tuck up next to my table saw.  It's the one tool in my garage that's just always in the way/takes up the most space vs how much I use it.

I think I also had to cut 4-5" off of my main tablesaw fence steel rail tube so jointed boards would not hit it.  I have a 50" table to the right so it did not affect me much.
WoodNET... the new safespace
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#34
(01-16-2018, 11:43 PM)measure once cut remeasure Wrote: What are the dimensions that you used for your equipment ?

Sorry I missed this. I just rough measured them and cut them out on graph paper. Made them probably a bit larger than real life just to make sure. When I'm actually down there, it seems like I have more space than it looks on paper! Not a bad problem.
Paul
"Some glue, some brads while the glue dries, and that's not going anywhere!"
Norm
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#35
My .02

starting at the bottom left 14'10" wall
  Leave a space of about 3' 10"  
  then place the end of your workwbench perpendicular from the 14'10" wall. This looks to take up about 3' of wall space 
  Place the end of your woodrack in the bottom right corner of the same wall
  This should leave about a 3' wide walk space between the side of the workbench and the wood rack

The 5' wall below the doorway would be used for a clamp rack and any other hanging tools.

Above the doorway on the 19'8" long wall would be a miter station that would include the router table all set at the same table height.   
5' of miter station left of the actuall saw ends at the doorway opening. Boards up to 8' will fit on the 5' of support left of the saw a roller stand in the doorway would take care of longer.
then 2' for the saw itself
   then 2' more of miter station
   next 3' would be the router table.
   last 7' 8" counter and storage that butts up to the 15'5" wall

The 15'5" top wall starting from the left corner:
   the first 2-2.5' is the miter saw/router table countertop
   the next 3-4' would be the dust collector
   the band saw would be located next to the dust collector
   when a drill press arrives it will sit next to the band saw.

The right hand 30'11" wall starting from the bottom right corner:
  The first 10' is the wood rack
  The next 9+' is open space
  The next 3' is the table saw which is fed from the direction of the wood rack (This should leave approx. 10'+ of infeed in front of the blade)
  The next 4"  is occupied by the out feed table
  An empty space continues to the corner

The back of the jointer would sit up against the side of the planer.  The jointer would be on the side toward the shelves. The planer would be closer to the door.
  The jointer would be angled on a line from the dust collector towards the walkway between the wood rack and workbench.
  The planer would be angled on a line from just left of the outfeed table to the walkway between the workbench and clamp rack.

Dust collection would only be needed in the top 2/3rds of the shop.
   The main trunk line from DC towards the jointer and planer where one drop with a wye for both machines.
   Right off the main line a y would need to have a sweeping curve brought back for the bandsaw.
   Another wye over to the router table.
   Either another wye to the miter saw or a line could be run along the wall from the router table
   Another Wye would run over to the top end of the recessed shelf area on the 30'11" wall. Having the drop in the recessed area would save floor space.
   If you were going to have above the blade dust collection on the table saw it could come off the same line as the other table saw pipe

I would use snaplock steel pipe for the dust collection, as you can always add a saddle wye onto existing pipe in the future.

Food for thought

Karl
My .02
Karl




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#36
(01-17-2018, 07:15 PM)measure once cut remeasure Wrote: My .02

starting at the bottom left 14'10" wall
  Leave a space of about 3' 10"  
  then place the end of your workwbench perpendicular from the 14'10" wall. This looks to take up about 3' of wall space 
  Place the end of your woodrack in the bottom right corner of the same wall
  This should leave about a 3' wide walk space between the side of the workbench and the wood rack

The 5' wall below the doorway would be used for a clamp rack and any other hanging tools.

Above the doorway on the 19'8" long wall would be a miter station that would include the router table all set at the same table height.   
  5' of miter station left of the actuall saw ends at the doorway opening. Boards up to 8' will fit on the 5' of support left of the saw  a roller stand in the doorway would take care of longer.  
  then 2' for the saw itself
   then 2' more of miter station
   next 3' would be the router table.
   last  7' 8" counter and storage that butts up to the 15'5" wall

The 15'5" top wall starting from the left corner:
   the first 2-2.5' is the miter saw/router table countertop
   the next 3-4' would be the dust collector
   the band saw would be located next to the dust collector
   when a drill press arrives it will sit next to the band saw.

The right hand 30'11" wall starting from the bottom right corner:
  The first 10' is the wood rack
  The next 9+' is open space
  The next 3' is the table saw which is fed from the direction of the wood rack (This should leave approx. 10'+ of infeed in front of the blade)
  The next 4"  is occupied by the out feed table
  An empty space continues to the corner

The back of the jointer would sit up against the side of the planer.  The jointer would be on the side toward the shelves. The planer would be closer to the door.
  The jointer would be angled on a line from the dust collector towards the walkway between the wood rack and workbench.
  The planer would be angled on a line from just left of the outfeed table to the walkway between the workbench and clamp rack.

Dust collection would only be needed in the top 2/3rds of the shop.
   The main trunk line from DC towards the jointer and planer where one drop with a wye for both machines.
   Right off the main line a y would need to have a sweeping curve brought back for the bandsaw.
   Another wye over to the router table.
   Either another wye to the miter saw or a line could be run along the wall from the router table
   Another Wye would run over to the top end of the recessed shelf area on the 30'11" wall. Having the drop in the recessed area would save floor space.
   If you were going to have above the blade dust collection on the table saw it could come off the same line as the other table saw pipe

I would use snaplock steel pipe for the dust collection, as you can always add a saddle wye onto existing pipe in the future.

Food for thought

Karl
Wow, that's more than $.02! I've printed this out and taking it downstairs tomorrow to figure out what you have suggested here. Will let you know.
Paul
"Some glue, some brads while the glue dries, and that's not going anywhere!"
Norm
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#37
Hi Paul. Have you got things sorted out yet? Inquiring minds you know!! lol
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#38
The only thing I would consider is making the worktable mobile. You can get locking casters or the type that rotate up and down for moving and stationary.
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