Less material or more air, that is the question..
#20
A carbon filter sounds like a good idea. I've never seen one that would fit on a fan. Do you have homeade one or have you found something for purchase?

I did some spraying over the weekend and had better luck. First of all I made sure all the material and components were nice and warm. Secondly, I thinned my material by only about 5%, maybe a smidge more. I finally got some nice atomization and realize I have other problems. Lack of practice for one. Now that the material is coming out nice, I find my technique is pretty bad. I think speed is my biggest problem now. I've got to slow it down, but not too much of course.

I've got a viscosity cup on the way for next time. I'll be starting with a fresh can of clearcoat to get it all dialed in.
How do you know you're learning anything if you don't screw up once in awhile?

My blog: http://birdsandboards.blogspot.com/
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#21
Speed is a big deal. Good lighting helps you know where your speed should be. I had—and still have—problems wanting to move the gun too fast. I constantly have to remind myself to slow down. After using an airless for many moons, the HVLP turbine is a turtle.


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#22
Glad to see you have a viscosity cup on the way. Be sure to use it for every can of material you get. I have had different lots of the same product from General Finishes vary from 56 sec to 114 sec. Don't assume the quality control of these products is that consistent.
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#23
(01-16-2018, 02:55 PM)mr_skittle Wrote: A carbon filter sounds like a good idea. I've never seen one that would fit on a fan. Do you have homeade one or have you found something for purchase?

There are lots of standard furnace type filters that should work.  Just a random pick:  Link. 

John
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#24
Now that you say it, I know exactly what you mean about the difference between airless and hvlp. When I was at a cabinet shop, the finish dept had a big airless system and my problem was always going too slow and getting sags. I think that mentality is still with me. The project I'm working on now will give me a few more chances to spray in the next week. Hopefully I can get a rhythm down by the time I'm done.

I'm surprised to hear there can be such a big difference between cans of the same exact finish. Why are we paying a premium for products from General Finish or Benjamin Moore (where I get stuff) if the quality control isn't there?
How do you know you're learning anything if you don't screw up once in awhile?

My blog: http://birdsandboards.blogspot.com/
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#25
Thanks John, I never knew there were carbon furnace filters. They don't come cheap but I would only need to use it if I had to spray during a cold snap. It would probably last a long time if I stored it properly.
How do you know you're learning anything if you don't screw up once in awhile?

My blog: http://birdsandboards.blogspot.com/
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#26
(01-16-2018, 02:55 PM)mr_skittle Wrote: A carbon filter sounds like a good idea. I've never seen one that would fit on a fan. Do you have homeade one or have you found something for purchase?

I did some spraying over the weekend and had better luck. First of all I made sure all the material and components were nice and warm. Secondly, I thinned my material by only about 5%, maybe a smidge more. I finally got some nice atomization and realize I have other problems. Lack of practice for one. Now that the material is coming out nice, I find my technique is pretty bad. I think speed is my biggest problem now. I've got to slow it down, but not too much of course.

I've got a viscosity cup on the way for next time. I'll be starting with a fresh can of clearcoat to get it all dialed in.

When a budding car painter is being trained "Speed and Distance" are pounded into our heads. Not all, but most problems achieving a nice finish (assuming the finish can be sprayed) is mastering how far your gun is from the piecework and how fast you move your gun. It takes practice and eventually it becomes second nature and you don't have to think about it. It only took me about 4 years doing it every day
Uhoh . Another thing to consider is that you should point your gun directly at the work, not at an angle... and... move your head off to the side to look at your "wet edge" at an angle. It's hard to see looking directly at it. A consistent wet edge is essential to getting a nice finish.
Neil Summers Home Inspections




I came to a stop sign and a skanky tweaker chick in a tube top climbed out of the brush and propositioned me.  She looked like she didn't have any teeth so I counted that as a plus.


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#27
(01-19-2018, 07:53 AM)Snipe Hunter Wrote:  move your head off to the side to look at your "wet edge" at an angle. It's hard to see looking directly at it. A consistent wet edge is essential to getting a nice finish.

I like my light at eye level . The ability to move it is nice as well . I just find it easier to maintain that wet edge , with a good consistent film .



If it can't kill you it probably ain't no good. Better living through chemicals.

 
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#28
(01-19-2018, 04:31 PM)fishhh4 Wrote: I like my light at eye level . The ability to move it is nice as well . I just find it easier to maintain that wet edge , with a good consistent film .

I use the sun.
Neil Summers Home Inspections




I came to a stop sign and a skanky tweaker chick in a tube top climbed out of the brush and propositioned me.  She looked like she didn't have any teeth so I counted that as a plus.


... Kizar Sosay





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