(01-16-2018, 04:03 PM)KLaz Wrote: I second the miter bit. I have one for my shaper and don't hog off any material beforehand.
Just slow your speed, do a few test cuts to perfect the alignment and you'll love using that bit. Well worth it.....
Thanks KLaz for another 'thumbs up' in trying the miter bit - I bought that bit for 'box making' and never gave it a try - I'll sleep on the decision and tomorrow decide my approach in the basement shop - Dave
With the TS saw already set up to rip your 4 pieces on a 45 all that is left is to lower the blade & reset the fence to make spline grooves. Bump the fence another 1/16" & run them all again for a thicker spline.
If you decide to go with the lock miter bit and plywood, here's a tip. The bit cuts fine as long as you're cutting with the grain of the exterior plywood veneers. It shreds the exterior veneers of you're cutting them cross grain. I always score my cross grain workpieces, cutting all the way through the exterior ply before running them through the router table. If you're careful, you can score exactly where the bit will cut so it doesn't shred the exterior veneer.
(01-17-2018, 03:51 PM)Hank Knight Wrote: If you decide to go with the lock miter bit and plywood, here's a tip. The bit cuts fine as long as you're cutting with the grain of the exterior plywood veneers. It shreds the exterior veneers of you're cutting them cross grain. I always score my cross grain workpieces, cutting all the way through the exterior ply before running them through the router table. If you're careful, you can score exactly where the bit will cut so it doesn't shred the exterior veneer.
Thanks Guys for the additional comments and tips - I decided to try out the Rockler router bit (also bought their bit guide) - first pic shows bit in place w/ the guide which worked fine - made several adjustments and test cuts - for the boards flat on the table, the profile was beautifully created; however running boards vertically (added a taller home made fence for support and a magnetic feather board) caused a LOT of tearing but this was all on the inside (second pic shows the joints came together well) - the pedestal is 10" square and the diagonals are equal, SO happy w/ that outcome - there are some outside slight gaps at the miters (third pic shows the largest, thinner than a credit card) - will use my scrapper burnisher to round over - QUESTION - worth putting a little glue (CA or yellow) in the slit before rolling the edges? Again thanks for all of the advice (if I use this bit, I'll follow Hank's advice above) - Dave
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I'm guessing that plywood column was practice/set up? If you do that with solid wood (even with plywood, I guess) I think I would try to get some glue in the gap before burnishing the corner over. That locking miter but is great for this, but don;t overlook Cary's comments, so is a biscuit joiner...and it might be a little easier. Regardless, it looks like you have a solution....should turn out nice.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
(01-18-2018, 06:51 AM)fredhargis Wrote: I'm guessing that plywood column was practice/set up? If you do that with solid wood (even with plywood, I guess) I think I would try to get some glue in the gap before burnishing the corner over. That locking miter but is great for this, but don;t overlook Cary's comments, so is a biscuit joiner...and it might be a little easier. Regardless, it looks like you have a solution....should turn out nice.
Thanks Guys for the additional comments - had my right-angle supports and a bunch of varied clamps ready - used Lee Vly's wood glue which has a longer 'open' time; put the bottom side on the right-angle supports, added glue & spread the placed the 2 upright sides, and finally the top side - clamps and soft mallet taps brought all together - squared up nicely - my first attempt; the plywood tear-out is all on the inside so not visible.
Took off the clamps last night and decided to fill the small gaps w/ 'plastic wood' - masked w/ green tape first - filled all 4 edges - removed the tape this morning and did some sanding w/ a block and 180 grit paper - combo pic below shows a nice un-marred surface and just one edge - looks fine to me - will come up w/ a design for the base and top.
Next time such a project arises, I'll consider all of the great comments made here - could have done bevels on the TS, added splines; also have a biscuit cutter; other thought would be some dowels for alignment - have several accurate dowel jigs that can do bevels - many solutions, I guess - thanks again for the help. Dave
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The lock miter is a great option but VERY fussy to get right without practice.
I NEVER try to rip long mitered on the TS, they simply do not work, even when I had a $40,000 sliding table saw in the shop I worked at.
I prefer to rip the meters on the saw, but leaving about 1/8” extra, then set up a 45 degree bit in the router table and mill the miter that way. Once set up, even if the board rises off the table or wanders away from the fence, you can simply pass it again to clean up any flaws.
To glue up, set the parts edge to edge and run packing tape along the joints. This will act as a hinge to fold the pedestal together. Carefully flip over the attached parts, add light glue, and fold the sides into a tube. Gently add clamps in both directions to hold while drying. Just snug them up at first, and tighten a little at a time to secure the joints without distorting them.
When cleaning up the dried assembly, do not try to sand the joints or fill and gaps. Run a smooth steel rod (a scraper burnished is excellent) down the joints rolling the sharp edges together. This will close small gaps and prevent sanding through the veneer exposing the ply.
Another method would be to simply build a butt jointed Box out of MDF or ply and veneer the entire thing.
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Dave
