Posts: 612
Threads: 1
Joined: Dec 2016
I am in the process of building some Hickory side tables for my home and I'm making the table tops out of one solid piece of Hickory measuring 12" deep by 30" wide and 7/8" thick. I know the purpose of breadboard ends is to keep the table top from curling up or down but I'm not an accomplished woodworker yet and although I've seen many ways to do breadboards I feel I'm not there yet.
The tops have already been milled and rough cut to their final dimensions (I have some room to play 1/4" each way) then I've let them sit for a few weeks and came back to check to see if the wood has cupped or twisted which they haven't. Do you think the tops will move any in the years to come? Although I can easily get another board for the tops if I screw up the breadboard ends I'd hate to waste two nice pieces of Hickory.
Posts: 7,581
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2005
Location: New Zealand
Personally I don't do breadboards. You should be able to control any cupping the same with some sort of sliding connection to the apron or other horizontal member under the table.
Fix the top in the centre, and allow the outer parts to move a little in the horizontal plane only. Also make sure both sides are finished in a similar way. The finish on the bottom doesn't need to be as nice, but the same number of coats is a good idea.
While a breadboard end will certainly help control cupping, it will also show seasonal expansion gaps on the ends. If there is no breadboard you don't notice if the top is 1/4" wider or narrower. At some time of the year, it's not going to match up perfectly any more.
Posts: 20,950
Threads: 0
Joined: May 2005
(01-15-2018, 06:05 AM)ianab Wrote: While a breadboard end will certainly help control cupping, it will also show seasonal expansion gaps on the ends. If there is no breadboard you don't notice if the top is 1/4" wider or narrower. At some time of the year, it's not going to match up perfectly any more.
Yep, apron or cleat, with proper provision for movement is an excellent idea. Learned my lesson a number of years ago when I copied a colonial lap desk in for my mom. The breadboard ends stood pretty proud in an air-conditioned house in California's dry central valley.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
Posts: 127
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2018
I normally rip boards over 8" wide & glue it back together. You still have the same width minus 3/32" from the rip. The board will stay flatter longer this way.
If you have a 12" or so scrap piece of your actual board handy rip it & check this method out. The glue line should appear nearly invisible.
Posts: 1,407
Threads: 2
Joined: Jun 2003
My suggestion is to sticker the boards inside the house -not your shop- for a few weeks, then see if there is any movement.
Hickory is extremely stable wood once its acclimated BB ends should not be necessary on a 12" wide board (and wouldn't prevent cupping anyway).
Be sure to attach top to aprons to allow for movement and you should be fine.
Posts: 612
Threads: 1
Joined: Dec 2016
01-15-2018, 03:58 PM
(This post was last modified: 01-15-2018, 03:58 PM by Duane N.)
Thank you everyone for the advice and suggestions. My wood shop is actually in my home (attached garage converted to a separate room) so the wood is already in it's conditioned environment. I take it outside for milling purposes and sanding but it comes back inside. It's been on stickers for close to 3 weeks now in the wood shop. I will skip the breadboard ends. Thanks.
