pocket hole help
#8
I am trying to make a drawer with 0.5" material. I have never had good luck making drawer lock joints so I thought I would try my pocket hole jig. The directions say to use 0.75" fine thread screws since I am using cherry. I set the jig and stop collar to the 0.5" mark and tried it on a test piece. The screws are not long enough to get a bite on the joining piece. I tried moving the stop collar a little to drill a deeper hole. Now the screw gets good purchase and snugs up the joint but it also pulls the two pieces of wood past each other so they are no longer aligned. I reset the stop collar and tried some course thread 1" screws. These pulled the joint tight and it stayed aligned but the wood split. Before I go buying more screws I wanted to know if I am doing something wrong or do I need fine thread 1" screws?
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#9
For Cherry you definitely need the fine thread screws. The coarse thread "might" work with screw wax. However they will more than likely split down the road.

Clamping both pieces together & to the bench should help with alignment. Or glue & pin the joint then drive the screws with wax.
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#10
(01-17-2018, 07:39 AM)Bope Wrote: I am trying to make a drawer with 0.5" material. I have never had good luck making drawer lock joints so I thought I would try my pocket hole jig. The directions say to use 0.75" fine thread screws since I am using cherry. I set the jig and stop collar to the 0.5" mark and tried it on a test piece. The screws are not long enough to get a bite on the joining piece. I tried moving the stop collar a little to drill a deeper hole. Now the screw gets good purchase and snugs up the joint but it also pulls the two pieces of wood past each other so they are no longer aligned. I reset the stop collar and tried some course thread 1" screws. These pulled the joint tight and it stayed aligned but the wood split. Before I go buying more screws I wanted to know if I am doing something wrong or do I need fine thread 1" screws?

I use the Kreg Micro jig for 1/2" drawer stock.  The hole and screws are smaller then those used in the normal Kreg jig.

That said. I dislike pocket screws for drawer construction. Dovetails, pins or draw locks are much better. I can cut a drawer lock rabbet freehand with my tablesaw that will lock the drawer box together and be stronger then pocket screws.
WoodNET... the new safespace
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#11
I think you're doing it right, you just need to clamp so it doesn't move.
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#12
(01-17-2018, 09:39 AM)rwe2156 Wrote: I don't do ps's much but I think what you do is:

1) set the jig for the thickness of material
2) insert drill bit in jig and set stop collar so the point is about 1/16" off bottom

The manual should explain it much better.

You have to use some type of clamping or the material will move as the screw tightens.

Another option is a simple rabbet into the sides, then glue and pin the front with 1/8" dowels.

Clamp the snot out of the pieces, that will prevent any shifting while screwing.

Also, a very slight amount of glue will help lock things in place for the long-haul.
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#13
I didn't even know Kreg offered 3/4" screws. That will be useful for more than just pocket holes.

In any case, unless things have changed, 1/2" stock calls for 1" screws. The stop collars need to be set appropriately. I will say that at least on my jig the depth to which the hole is drilled at the 1/2" stop lets the screw heads sit slightly proud of the surface, which is annoying. There are positive stops on the depth jig, so it's hard to get deeper. However, if you drill for 5/8", you can get the screw heads below the surface and they will still have adequate purchase in both pieces. Test this on scrap first to make sure. Oh, and like Phil said, clamp everything firmly. The Kreg screws drive at an angle and generally pull the pieces apart slightly.

For what it's worth I have had good luck with using pocket screws for smaller drawers (1/2" stock). These are for end tables, sewing tables, and similar applications that never see anything heavier than a battery. Pocket screws work pretty well on 3/4" stock but aren't pretty. These days, not really caring much about drawer joinery, I'll use the Domino to join drawers. I hate to say it because the majority of Festool stuff is grossly overpriced but the Domino just makes it easier.
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#14
Thanks for the help. I pretty much suck at making drawers. I either get things just right until I put glue on an the wood swells then I can't get it together or they are loose and rely on PVA glue to span the gap. I thought this time I would try the pocket holes. Unfortunately I already cut the pieces to size. The instructions I have for my K4 jig said 0.75" screws. They were obviously not working. The 1" I tried didn't come through so I ordered the fine 1" screws. This is a very light weight drawer that is only 0.75" tall. It should be just deep enough for some Kaizen foam to hold a couple diamond stones.
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