Kreg Router table fence issues

[tmhudg]

Hello,

I just bought a Kreg router table and fence and I'm having some issues setting it up. In particular, the alignment of the split fence seems "off". 

If I hold a straightedge across the two fences it rocks back and forth slightly - like they are not in the same vertical plane. It's kind of like how (I think) you might set up the fence for jointing except that the infeed side of the fence (how do I say this) is closer to me than the outfeed side.

No, the jointing rods are not inserted.

I noticed it first when I was doing a test of a roundover bit. I was running the piece along the fences and bit and when the trailing edge of the piece came off the infeed fence, it "fell" into the bit ever so slightly - but noticeably and putting a small ridge on the roundover. I hope all that makes sense.

So, is this "normal"? I've tried googling for this problem and have found nothing. I've tried swapping the fences, flipping them, checking for things that would shim one way or another but haven't been able to find a solution.

I should mention that this is my first router table so I don't really have anything to compare with. 

Thanks for any help or advice.

[handi]

Hello,

I just bought a Kreg router table and fence and I'm having some issues setting it up. In particular, the alignment of the split fence seems "off". 

If I hold a straightedge across the two fences it rocks back and forth slightly - like they are not in the same vertical plane. It's kind of like how (I think) you might set up the fence for jointing except that the infeed side of the fence (how do I say this) is closer to me than the outfeed side.

No, the jointing rods are not inserted.

I noticed it first when I was doing a test of a roundover bit. I was running the piece along the fences and bit and when the trailing edge of the piece came off the infeed fence, it "fell" into the bit ever so slightly - but noticeably and putting a small ridge on the roundover. I hope all that makes sense.

So, is this "normal"? I've tried googling for this problem and have found nothing. I've tried swapping the fences, flipping them, checking for things that would shim one way or another but haven't been able to find a solution.

I should mention that this is my first router table so I don't really have anything to compare with. 

Thanks for any help or advice.

As stated above, check the faces. Does switching them side for side change the dynamic? You mention a bit of rocking on your straight edge. This should mean that if you set it across the lead in, it should angle away from the outfeed and vice versa. You can also remove them and lay the straight edge across the aluminum fence where they seat. Is it flat? 

Once you determine where the issue is, if it is not some sort of set up error on your part, just contact Kreg and have them replace the aluminum extrusion or the split faces as needed.

My Kreg fence is dead on flat whether I am using their faces or the mdf ones I made for burying the bit.

[tmhudg]

Thanks all,

I took the faces off and checked the aluminum fence and it seems to be flat (I don't get the rocking on my straightedge). I've swapped the faces several different ways and it seems to have the same issue regardless.  

A little more data...

I did some more cuts today - some rabbets and dados - and they went fine. So I'm a little confused (keep in mind that I've never used a router table before).

Backing up... I first noticed the problem when using a roundover bit with a roller bearing. I was trying to solve a problem I ran into rounding over a 1/2 thick part. I had the bit set so the bearing would ride properly on the edge of the piece and I was just free-handing it using the guide pin in the table. That worked fine but I had a couple of parts that had rabbets in them and I realized that the bearing would have nothing to ride on for those parts. So, I thought "I'll just use the fence to keep the part properly spaced for when the bearing has nothing to "feel"". That's when I had the problem. Running the part along the fence, once the trailing edged cleared the infeed fence, it fell into the bit just that tiny amount. 

I don't know if those details sheds any more light on the issue or if the fences are indeed messed up. I'm still not sure why I didn't have the problem with just a straight bit either. 

I'm still learning obviously so I'll keep trying things and I'll probably call Kreg on Monday. I already had to have them send me a missing part so they have my address already...

Thanks again

[Axehandle]

I got rid of mine years ago for similar "inconsistencies".  The fence always moved no matter how tight you clamped it down.  I could never seem to get the insert plate height and level just right, and like you, there were issues with the coplanar of the pieces of the split fence.  I believe I used some shim stock to bring the closer one out a bit so it would not hit on the second one.

[peter-m]

Over the years, router tables and I just did’t get along until now.  I made my first two.  It’s either a fence problem or not flat enough.  I then though I found a pretty good one, crapsman, not.  I had been thinking about the problem for quite a while.  I decide to fine an old Craftsmen table saw.  It cost me $180 to have the top cut to fit my router base.  I mounted it between the rails on my Jet table saw.  Now I have the use of the saw fence and have an extended table top for my saw.  I love it.  Everything is flat and true.

[Big Dave]

 That worked fine but I had a couple of parts that had rabbets in them and I realized that the bearing would have nothing to ride on for those parts. So, I thought "I'll just use the fence to keep the part properly spaced for when the bearing has nothing to "feel"". That's when I had the problem. Running the part along the fence, once the trailing edged cleared the infeed fence, it fell into the bit just that tiny amount. 

Seeing this, I have to ask how you adjusted the fence in relation to the bit & bearing? If the bearing is protruding out from the fence even the tiniest amount, your wood will "bump" into the fence once it clears the bearing...

For cuts like this, the fence & the contact point of the bearing all have to be co-planar. When setting the fence, use a straight edge placed against the bearing and bring the fence up until all three points (infeed & outfeed fences & the bearing) are touching the straight edge. Anything straight can be used - I usually just use the piece I am about to cut. once the fence is tightened in place, run a test piece through to make sure everything is as it should be.

Dave

[tmhudg]

Seeing this, I have to ask how you adjusted the fence in relation to the bit & bearing? If the bearing is protruding out from the fence even the tiniest amount, your wood will "bump" into the fence once it clears the bearing...

For cuts like this, the fence & the contact point of the bearing all have to be co-planar. When setting the fence, use a straight edge placed against the bearing and bring the fence up until all three points (infeed & outfeed fences & the bearing) are touching the straight edge. Anything straight can be used - I usually just use the piece I am about to cut. once the fence is tightened in place, run a test piece through to make sure everything is as it should be.

Dave

That's just it though. In this case, the bearing was not riding on anything (because the rabbet was cut where the bearing surface would have been). That's why I was using the fence and not just free-handing the part. When the part was along both the infeed and outfeed fences, I made sure to press against the outfeed fence as the trailing edge of the part was leaving the infeed fence. But it still fell into the bit once it left the infeed fence. 

FWIW, the way I adjusted the bearing and fence (for when the bearing *did* have material to ride on) was to pull the fence forward of the bit (towards me), place my straightedge across the fence, and then push the fence back until the straightedge contacted the bearing. That seemed to be easier to me than pulling the fence forward while the straightedge was on the bearing.

[AgGEM]

FWIW, the way I adjusted the bearing and fence (for when the bearing *did* have material to ride on) was to pull the fence forward of the bit (towards me), place my straightedge across the fence, and then push the fence back until the straightedge contacted the bearing. That seemed to be easier to me than pulling the fence forward while the straightedge was on the bearing.

That is the good way to do it.

Be careful using the start pin especially as the work gets smaller. That can get ugly. Router tables have an agreement with your local ER and are just happily waiting for you to make an error.