toilet rough in?
#21
(01-28-2018, 09:57 PM)crokett™ Wrote: ..... Just flush the existing toilet a few times before you remove it and cut the pipe...
Oh...I'll flush more than a few times
Laugh   I have't cut a drain pipe before, so not looking forward to that if need be.  I wondered how much I would get out of it, and even before your advise I was thinking I'd estimate how much volume the pipe holds, and dump about 2x that down the pipe after the toilet is off before I cut the pipe.
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#22
It sounds to me that the toilet drain was roughed in correctly. The drain should be 12' off the rough framing. This will allow about 1-1/4" of wall "finish, and a 12' toilet will still fit. If there is any space between the tank and the wall, a spacer should be installed. Many of the older toilet tanks (as well as some of the new ones) have small notches on the top at the back for a clip to secure the tank to the wall. It can move around a little more than the bowl, but that's very little before it leaks. It's a much bigger problem if the tank cracks at the bolts securing it to the bowl. In other words; don't lean back.

As far as painting behind the toilet; take it outside and give it thorough cleaning. Better yet, tell one of your kids it's their turn to clean the toilet, "It's out in the driveway next to the pressure washer". A bathroom is already tough enough to paint; in my opinion, the toughest room in the house. I always remove switch and receptacle plates, light fixtures, towel bars, soap dishes, ect.. Half the work is prep, right?  I'd gladly take off three nuts and spend a buck for a new wax ring instead of buying special rollers to paint behind and under a smelly toilet. I might even splurge for a Kant-leak with new Johnny bolts for less than $5.00!
Sign at N.E. Vocational School Cabinetmaking Shop 1976, "Free knowledge given daily... Bring your own container"
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#23
(01-29-2018, 01:48 AM)MstrCarpenter Wrote: It sounds to me that the toilet drain was roughed in correctly. The drain should be 12' off the rough framing. This will allow about 1-1/4" of wall "finish, and a 12' toilet will still fit. If there is any space between the tank and the wall, a spacer should be installed. Many of the older toilet tanks (as well as some of the new ones) have small notches on the top at the back for a clip to secure the tank to the wall. It can move around a little more than the bowl, but that's very little before it leaks. It's a much bigger problem if the tank cracks at the bolts securing it to the bowl. In other words; don't lean back.

As far as painting behind the toilet; take it outside and give it thorough cleaning. Better yet, tell one of your kids it's their turn to clean the toilet, "It's out in the driveway next to the pressure washer". A bathroom is already tough enough to paint; in my opinion, the toughest room in the house. I always remove switch and receptacle plates, light fixtures, towel bars, soap dishes, ect.. Half the work is prep, right?  I'd gladly take off three nuts and spend a buck for a new wax ring instead of buying special rollers to paint behind and under a smelly toilet. I might even splurge for a Kant-leak with new Johnny bolts for less than $5.00!

I think the 12" is from the finished wall not counting a baseboard not the rough wall.   Roly
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#24
(01-29-2018, 07:36 AM)Roly Wrote: I think the 12" is from the finished wall not counting a baseboard not the rough wall.   Roly

I think this was discussed about two years ago but I didn't post a reply. Anyway, I have remodeled dozens of bathrooms from the 1950's. I think this is the era that things really started to become standardized. The "rough-in" was at 12" from the framing, then rock lathe and plaster with mud set tiles. Do you prefer pink, blue, or both? A standard 12" toilet has always fit. My only problem was with baseboard if I subbed out the plumbing. I cant install base 'till the vanity is installed, and the plumber sets the toilet while he's there, so I pull the tank (on a new toilet) or there's a scarf joint right where I can't nail it tight. Oh, one more thing. The walls are already painted! 
Big Grin
Sign at N.E. Vocational School Cabinetmaking Shop 1976, "Free knowledge given daily... Bring your own container"
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#25
If the toilet flange has a leaded sleeve you can play around a bit with it to give you another half an inch.
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#26
(01-28-2018, 10:52 PM)JosephP Wrote:   I have't cut a drain pipe before, so not looking forward to that if need be. 

As long as the pipe is pitched correctly and there's no standing water or solids in it, it isn't terrible.   You only really smell it if you're sticking your nose in the pipe.  I've cleaned sink traps that stunk worse than replacing a toilet flange.   Cutting the existing elbow off will be more straight forward than trying to cut the flange off and adding an offset flange without damaging the elbow.  I've done both.    If you decide to cut the elbow off,  assemble the new pieces to at least a dry fit and use those to mark your cut line.
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#27
You don't want too much space between wall and tank to prevent it being push back when someone sits if the lean against it.

Offset is 12 1/2" yes you do have to account for the thickness of the drywall but most toilets have enough slack to fudge it.
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#28
(01-30-2018, 03:39 PM)rwe2156 Wrote: You don't want too much space between wall and tank to prevent it being push back when someone sits if the lean against it.

Offset is 12 1/2" yes you do have to account for the thickness of the drywall but most toilets have enough slack to fudge it.

On his fist post he said he had 11 1/2" from wall to center of bolt and had to force it to get lid on.   While many toilets will fit in the 11 1/2" space not all 12" toilets will.   Look at the manafacture's specs as how to measure it.   Roly
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#29
Hoping the one I ordered will fit Rolly... Special ordered one from Menards last night. Will move pipe if it won't. I think it will. Installation diagram shows 12" to center of drain and 1 1/8" off of wall. Should give me a cozy 5/8" back there...
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#30
(01-27-2018, 06:57 PM)JosephP Wrote: ....
There is room in front to give a few inches and not feel cramped...but we will be going to switching from round to elongated, so already loosing a couple of inches that way.

American Standard makes a Compact Elongated that doesn't take up any more room than their round front.

They are more money, but well worth the investment....

I put one in our Master bath, which originally had a round front.


https://www.google.com/search?ei=ecN5Wuy...jXUuFK_KQE
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