Cross-cut sled vs mitre saw

[photobug]

I have a nice, though old high end sliding miter saw.  I just built my first crosscut sled and and now using it even more than the miter saw.

It has a 26" cut capacity so i can use it to make repeatable cuts for cabinet carcasses.  I have also made jigs or fixtures for it to make 45 degree cuts, finger joints.  Next will be a spline cutting jig and more to come.  I use the sled it to cut multiple pass dados.

My miter saw is used as a rough chop tool in preparation or when I need a miter or am too lazy, I need make a single cut and don't want to pull out the sled.  I feel whenever I change the miter on the miter saw I need to use a square to ensure the angle is correct.  The sled is super accurate and gives me more reliable repeatable cuts.

I recently needed a 60 degree pointed bevel on a board and used the miter saw in a somewhat questionable way to achieve this, but just came up with a way to draw the angle needed on my crosscut sled to do this in a less dangerous way.  Given the choice of only one I would choose the cross cut sled.  But since I don't work that way, I have two of each.

[Cooler]

To add to Cooler's point, a miter saw is simply not that accurate. Going up in size or scope (a bigger blade, a sliding mechanism, or more material) makes it less so.

My first miter saw was a 10" Ridgid. It's capacity was limited, but it was pretty accurate. I moved up to a Milwaukee sliding 12" (6955) and while I keep it tuned there is only so much you can do. The blade deflects and wanders, and it does come out of alignment - ever so slightly - too easily.

Try this yourself - cut a 1x3 or something small and notice how accurate it is. Stack up four 1x6s and cut them square. Try to mix and match the ends or flip them over and you'll see that the blade wanders and the angle is off. It's going to be a very small amount - in woodworking terms, one degree is a lot - but even a quarter degree is noticeable. That isn't something you really need to worry about with a table saw as they are much more accurate. A sled with zero play bars in the miter gauge track will be a lot more stable and accurate.

I use the slide to trim the ends of a cutting board, but only because that's not something that's going to be joined. As mentioned, your ability to use a miter saw for finish cuts is limited.

There was a company that sold Dewalt miter saws mounted to a measuring table for picture framing.  But they included two separate miter saws that could be micro adjusted and never moved from the 45 degree detents.

With the exception of Dewalt, all the miter saws seem to  use "as cast" detents for the 45 degree settings.  Dewalt uses a stamping that in theory is more accurate, but the form that fits in the detent has some flex so I am not sure.  

Of course picture framers, who all use pre-finished mouldings, have to have the ultimate in accuracy and smooth cut.  The blade on my saw cost an astonishing amount of money.  But when I tried a regular production saw blade it left a much rougher cut.  So I ended up with two of the blades and sent one out for sharpening while I used the other.

[Arlin Eastman]

I've seen lots of videos on using and making cross-cut sleds for a table saw. They seem to be a great addition to a table saw.

But doesn't a cross-cut sled really just turn your table saw into a mitre saw?

Forgive my ignorance. But are there some advantages or disadvantages of one over the other? I haven't really heard or read anything that would distinguish the two.

I have an old Craftsman mitre saw. I plan on keeping it, and building a stand for it, as part of the first phase of beginning my woodworking adventure. It's not the most accurate but then, I haven't spent any time trying to re-tune it. It's a hand-me-down from my brother-in-law.

However, if a well-featured cross-cut sled would basically replace my mitre saw, then I wouldn't bother making a stand for the saw and would spend the lumber money making a sled.

I feel though that I don't know what I don't know. You know?

You can get much more accurate and repeatable cuts on a TS with a sled.  You first have to make sure the sled is done correctly also.

[jteneyck]

Each can do some of what the other can, but neither can do everything.  Compound miters are much easier on a CMS.  Imagine that.  Cross cuts on wide panels can't be done on one but are simple on a TS with a crosscut sled.  And on and on.  Accuracy is arguable.  IMHO it's easier to get accurate results with a crosscut sled, assuming it was built accurately, but it's not that hard to get accurate results with a CMS either. 

You want both.  

John

[giradman]

I've seen lots of videos on using and making cross-cut sleds for a table saw. They seem to be a great addition to a table saw.

But doesn't a cross-cut sled really just turn your table saw into a mitre saw?

Forgive my ignorance. But are there some advantages or disadvantages of one over the other? I haven't really heard or read anything that would distinguish the two...................

Hi Hobbywood - you've already received great comments and from many more experienced Woodworkers than myself - but just to add to the discussion, I use a home-made sled on my TS and also have an Hitachi 10" CMS (non-slider) fitted w/ a thin-kerf Freud CC blade and on a home-made stand (pics below); the sled has a 20" capacity, so an obvious advantage if a crosscut of that width is needed; however, using stop blocks/commercial stops, I've dimensioned pieces of wood to the same length w/ the miter saw - also, for 45º miters, the saw serves my needs, e.g. I'm making a pedestal stand for our local church - the 3rd pic shows the unfinished oak ply top w/ solid oak dadoed and mitered, the latter w/ the Hitachi saw - close enough for me.  So, I like having both in my woodworking arsenal. Dave

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[AHill]

Crosscut sled will almost always give you a cleaner cut because it - by its nature - is a zero clearance cut.  It's safer also, since your offcut doesn't go anywhere it pleases.

[Hobbywood]

Build your miter saw station such that you can upgrade the saw and not have to re-create the station.

That's exactly how I've been thinking. I have measured a number of saws at the big box stores to get an idea of the varying widths. Mine is about 19" and the widest I measured at the store was about 29" (at least the ones I realistically see myself buying in the next 2-3 years). So, I've decided on making the base 30". I will add the fold up wings later on. When I get my new table saw, I will need to put the mitre saw somewhere as right now, it sits on top of the old Craftsman table saw. I figured the mitre saw cabinet would be a good first project.

I appreciate all the great responses. Lots of useful advice. I'm very glad I found this forum.

[MstrCarpenter]

 I will need to put the mitre saw somewhere as right now, it sits on top of the old Craftsman table saw.

Quick tip; Mount a board to your rip fence the same height as your miter saw bed.

[Hobbywood]

Quick tip; Mount a board to your rip fence the same height as your miter saw bed.

I'm trying to visualize what you're gettin' at.

The base of the mitre saw takes up all of the table saw's table top except for just enough room to mount the fence. Which way is this board supposed to be oriented in relation to the fence that it's supposed to be mounted on?

The mitre saw already has attachable bars for each end of the base to support longer material. They only stick out about 8"-10" inches, but it's something. Was that the purpose of the board?

[Cooler]

A Lion Miter Trimmer will fix all wood miters from any miter box, and make  perfect miters every time.  Lion is out of business but the knockoffs that put them out of business seem well made:

http://www.rockler.com/miter-trimmer?sid...gK1pfD_BwE



It has a small cam for making precision adjustments.  The blades are super sharp and I can slice off such thin slices that I can see through them--as think as copy paper.

One slice of probably .002" thick will correct any miter.