How to attach hammer head to handle.
#11
I picked up this hammer head last summer at the local flea market, just now getting around to making a handle for it.  I wanted a short comfortable handle.  I fashioned it out of a piece of mahogany. This hammer will get only VERY gentle usage. 

So the question is; how to attach the head to the handle.  It's a pretty snug fit. 
My choices are:
1. Metal wedge (of which I cannot seem to find mine at the moment)
2. Wooden wedge
3. Epoxy (either 5 minute or 30 minute epoxy)

I have used all three in the distant past and all 3 work. I don't know much about how easily mahogany splits.
I am thinking I will use a wooden wedge that will go into a bandsawn slot.  If so, should I drill across the piece and cut to the hole to prevent splitting?


Does anyone use a similar setup on woodworking chisels? Or does everyone us a traditional wooden mallet?


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#12
Depending on the fit and intended use, wood wedges should suffice. Mahogany may well prove to be too soft though, the head will never stay tight if the wood fibers inside the head crush from use.

As an aside, if you weren't aware that is a copper-beryllium hammer head; used in the mining and gas industries because it is non sparking and quite durable. They are rather expensive to buy new.
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#13
(02-08-2018, 12:05 PM)s9plus20 Wrote: So the question is; how to attach the head to the handle.  It's a pretty snug fit. 
My choices are:
1. Metal wedge (of which I cannot seem to find mine at the moment)
2. Wooden wedge
3. Epoxy (either 5 minute or 30 minute epoxy)

Does anyone use a similar setup on woodworking chisels? Or does everyone us a traditional wooden mallet?

Check to see if the opening through the hammer is wider on one side than the other.  That side is up, regardless your choice of wedge.  Don't know where you live, but the big box stores all carry wedges here.  Small ones for hammers/hatchets, and large for axes/mauls.  My preference, since it's not likely to work loose like a wooden one might.

I turn my own mallets.  Mostly I soak them in PEG to keep the surface in a "dead blow" state, as I primarily use for carving.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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#14
(02-08-2018, 12:47 PM)jlanciani Wrote: Depending on the fit and intended use, wood wedges should suffice. Mahogany may well prove to be too soft though, the head will never stay tight if the wood fibers inside the head crush from use.

As an aside, if you weren't aware that is a copper-beryllium hammer head; used in the mining and gas industries because it is non sparking and quite durable. They are rather expensive to buy new.

Yes I knew the makeup.  I got it for a song at the flea market.   Its rather heavy/dense so I thought it may be good for woodworking chisels.

I might ought to epoxy it in because of the soft fibers of the mahogany... then again....  I might have some hard maple scraps I could use instead of the mahogany.  I don't have any hickory.  I didn't want to purchase a handle because i wanted a short handle and a different shape than is offered on replacement handles.
There are 10 kinds of people in the world, those who know binary and those who do not.
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#15
The axe guys prefer wedges that are somewhat softer than the handle material. It causes them to compress, thereby keeping constant pressure on the axe head.

Here is a picture of a walnut wedge set into a hickory handle. See how the middle of the wedge is compressed by the thick part of the handle. They also soak the newly hung axe in BLO as it swells the fibers, further tightening the head.

This technique works well for hammers also. I just rehung a 2 lb. head on a hickory handle using this method. It is rock solid.


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#16
I would choose a wood wedge.
Steve

Missouri






 
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020








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#17
Most older hammers used both a large wooden wedge, and one or two metal wedges.  
   

On some of my Rust Hunts, I'll bring home a claw hammer head.....then attach a store bought handle.   You COULD buy a handle, and just use the wedges supplied with the handle...not a big deal, i another claw hammer breaks a handle, you merely reuse the wedges used.
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that
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#18
A good video if you have time.

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#19
(02-08-2018, 12:05 PM)s9plus20 Wrote: I picked up this hammer head last summer at the local flea market, just now getting around to making a handle for it.  I wanted a short comfortable handle.  I fashioned it out of a piece of mahogany. This hammer will get only VERY gentle usage. 

So the question is; how to attach the head to the handle.  It's a pretty snug fit. 
My choices are:
1. Metal wedge (of which I cannot seem to find mine at the moment)
2. Wooden wedge
3. Epoxy (either 5 minute or 30 minute epoxy)

I have used all three in the distant past and all 3 work. I don't know much about how easily mahogany splits.
I am thinking I will use a wooden wedge that will go into a bandsawn slot.  If so, should I drill across the piece and cut to the hole to prevent splitting?


Does anyone use a similar setup on woodworking chisels? Or does everyone us a traditional wooden mallet?
......................
After 50 years of use, I have become a lifelong fan of epoxy..but not so much the fast hardening type. The slow-set type bonds much better and is more "tenacious"....it has much more "open" time to penetrate the wood fibers...For setting my wood carving knife blades, chisels as well as hammer/axe handles, I prefer JB Weld..Never a failure if the metal is clean and free of any oil.
Often Tested.    Always Faithful.      Brothers Forever

Jack Edgar, Sgt. U.S. Marines, Korea, America's Forgotten War
Get off my lawn !
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#20
(02-08-2018, 12:05 PM)s9plus20 Wrote: I picked up this hammer head last summer at the local flea market, just now getting around to making a handle for it.  I wanted a short comfortable handle.  I fashioned it out of a piece of mahogany. This hammer will get only VERY gentle usage. 

So the question is; how to attach the head to the handle.  It's a pretty snug fit. 
My choices are:
1. Metal wedge (of which I cannot seem to find mine at the moment)
2. Wooden wedge
3. Epoxy (either 5 minute or 30 minute epoxy)

I have used all three in the distant past and all 3 work. I don't know much about how easily mahogany splits.
I am thinking I will use a wooden wedge that will go into a bandsawn slot.  If so, should I drill across the piece and cut to the hole to prevent splitting?


Does anyone use a similar setup on woodworking chisels? Or does everyone us a traditional wooden mallet?

Remember that the alloy is beryllium / copper ( 2% / 98% IIRC ) and the beryllium is toxic. Don't wire brush the head and you should be OK.

Nice find BTW!!

Dave B
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