Help with picture frame embellishments?
#29
Whoa! Those are cool!

Thanks, Cooler. I'll save that link for later projects.
Semper fi,
Brad

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#30
I like!!!

I make a lot of frames. Discovered two small eye screws and picture wire is a better way than the serrated center hanger. Much easier to hang and level.
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#31
I did several - maybe 16 - picture frames back in the day. I did everything from larger ones made out of poplar and painted gloss back with dividers for collages to the traditional frames. I also did a couple laminated ones with contrasting wood and at least one where I had an inlay into a dado. I also built a jig for my TS rip fence where I could glue up the frame, stand it on edge and cut a slot in the corners to glue in a spline. It made the miter stronger and the contrasting wood looked good. for hanging, I hate keyhole and other slots with a passion. smaller frames I used one of the metal brackets. larger ones, eye hooks and wires.
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#32
crokett--

This one will also have splines in the corner--I have a slot cutting jig I use for boxes that will support this frame.

Thanks, K. L! We have a bunch of art work and large photography that we've gathered over the years that need frames. After this I'm gonna start making more for that stuff so we can finally get it onto our walls.
Semper fi,
Brad

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#33
(03-08-2018, 09:06 AM)K. L McReynolds Wrote: I like!!!

I make a lot of frames. Discovered two small eye screws and picture wire is a better way than the serrated center hanger. Much easier to hang and level.

I was a picture framer for many years and I much preferred these to screw eyes.  They install faster and lay flatter against the wall:

[Image: 51q7hsmyFOL._SL1000_.jpg]
The rule of thumb is to place the screw eyes or eyelets 1/3 from the top.  And make the wire length so that it will be 1/2 the remaining distance from the top.

Everyone had put a picture in a frame at some time.  The difference between an amateur effort and a professional effort in most people's minds is how tidy the rear of the frame looks.  

Always apply a dust cover. I used an ATG gun (adhesive transfer gun) but adhesive transfer tape is available in hand dispensing rolls.  It is double faced tape without the tape.  It is just the adhesive.  You might be able to find this at an arts and crafts shop.  If you are going to do a lot of this the ATG gun is much faster.  

Apply the adhesive to the back of the frame.  Lay the craft paper over the rear of the frame and press it down smoothly.  Use a sharp (fresh blade) utility knife to trim the paper to about 1/8" of the edge of the frame.  

Then take a spray bottle and spray the paper with  water over the whole surface and wipe off the excess with a cloth.  Allow to dry.  This will make the paper as tight as a drum head and a nice presentation.

Apply your hardware.  

When you apply the wire make the winds look as neat as a hangman's noose.  

Make a nice label for the rear identifying you as the framer and the date of the frame and sign it.

I cannot remember a single customer who did not at least glance at the rear of the frame to see if it was "professional".  As gifts I would supply the wall hardware.  Use a very small zip lock bag and zip it over the hanging wire.  It is a handy way to keep it.
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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#34
(03-08-2018, 09:19 AM)®smpr_fi_mac® Wrote: crokett--

This one will also have splines in the corner--I have a slot cutting jig I use for boxes that will support this frame.

Thanks, K. L!  We have a bunch of art work and large photography that we've gathered over the years that need frames.  After this I'm gonna start making more for that stuff so we can finally get it onto our walls.

I probably did thousands of frames in my years as a framer.  Any molding less than 3" in width would not require any additional structure.  Just glue.  

"Corner Weld glue" was the industry standard and in my informal tests it was much better than the other products that were available.  I don't know how it stands up to Woodworkers II as I have not done any recent tests.  But it was vastly stronger than the white glue we had been using up to that time.  I still use if when I have an end grain application.

Of course the blades we used for framing were more precise than what we have available for our miter saws.  (And much more expensive too.)  The smoother cut might have an effect on joint strength.  I don't know.

I see that some people are discounting the blades now so they are not that much more than a standard miter saw blade.  

http://www.framingsupplies.com/SawBlades...blades.htm

But the 12" blade on my saw lists for $184.00 and sells (now) for $111.00.  So still pretty expensive.
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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#35
Oh, neat idea. I hadn't considered the dust over on the back.
Semper fi,
Brad

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#36
(03-08-2018, 11:32 AM)®smpr_fi_mac® Wrote: Oh, neat idea.  I hadn't considered the dust over on the back.

The dust cover serves almost no legitimate function other than making a tidy appearance.  But as a gift I would always include the dust cover.

I always used black craft paper for my dust covers (bought in huge rolls), and signed the back with a gold paint pen.  It looked rich.  And since a good picture frame is going to be expensive, then it pays to do that.

I also always wrapped the frame in craft paper and unwrapped it for the customer to view.  I would tape the paper back when they left the store.  It makes a better presentation.  I recommend it for any frame given as a gift.  (Not gift wrap, plain craft paper wrap with masking tape to seal).
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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