Wide board need to be cut?
#11
This 16 inch wide walnut is for the top of a dresser. I so want to leave it as-is for bragging rights: "Oh look, that top is just a single board!" My cabinet-making friend (who works only in red oak) says cut it into three boards and reglue, or it will eventually warp. the wood is air-dried 4 years and will be held down with screws in slots underneath, allowing to expand & shrink.
What do ya'll think. Should I try to get away with it? BTW, I've made plenty of other case pieces with this same wood, but not with a board so wide.


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#12
(03-08-2018, 05:33 PM)petertay15 Wrote: This 16 inch wide walnut is for the top of a dresser. I so want to leave it as-is for bragging rights: "Oh look, that top is just a single board!"  My cabinet-making friend (who works only in red oak) says cut it into three boards and reglue, or it will eventually warp. the wood is air-dried 4 years and will be held down with screws in slots underneath, allowing to expand & shrink.
What do ya'll think. Should I try to get away with it? BTW, I've made plenty of other case pieces with this same wood, but not with a board so wide.
What is the harm in trying it with the full board? 
By your description, IF it warps it will not be a huge deal to remove it, cut it in three and replace it, but if it does not, you keep your bragging rights. 

Honestly, a lot depends on the board itself. If the grain is tight and straight, it should do ok. 
I would look at the ends. If the rings show it being cut Fran close to the center of the tree, (tight radius) it is more likely to warp. If the rings show further from the center (gentle curves to the radii) it could be closer to a riff sawn board and is far less likely to warp.
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#13
(03-08-2018, 05:33 PM)petertay15 Wrote: This 16 inch wide walnut is for the top of a dresser. I so want to leave it as-is for bragging rights: "Oh look, that top is just a single board!"  My cabinet-making friend (who works only in red oak) says cut it into three boards and reglue, or it will eventually warp. the wood is air-dried 4 years and will be held down with screws in slots underneath, allowing to expand & shrink.
What do ya'll think. Should I try to get away with it? BTW, I've made plenty of other case pieces with this same wood, but not with a board so wide.

In my opinion, that's an old wives tale.  There's nothing magic that happens when you cut it into three pieces.  The only exception is if you were to reorient the grain, but why ruin a beautiful wide piece of wood like that.  There are plenty of wide slab tables out there that not one thought to tell George Nakashima, "Hey you need to cut that down so it doesn't warp."
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#14
I'd throw that single board up there as is. It will shrink up some after you take it inside the house (ac/heat) but what the hey.
If it warps badly on down the road, remove it, rip some narrower boards and reorient them and glue it back together.
Steve

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#15
What would suck is cutting and gluing and having it warp, without having tried it as is.
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#16
Has the board developed any noticable cup between when it was sawn, and now?  If it has, then it may have some tendency to move seasonally after you flatten and build with it. It won't be a lot, but it might be enough to notice. 

Thing is, it's dried from ~50% moisture to ~8% already. How much did it move during that process? If it was "hardly any", then it's not suddenly going to become a pretzel if it dries to 6%, or picks up moisture to 10% as the seasons change. 

Make sure it's properly dry, and that you finish both sides the same to avoid uneven moisture changes, and it should be OK.
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#17
Fine Woodworking magazine dealt with that topic about 35 years ago. Their contention was that cutting, then alternating the boards would result in a washboard if it ended up warping. And that it was much better, and easier, to control the uniform warping of a single panel through mechanical attachment.

I have a dresser that is about 130 years old made of solid walnut that has a one piece, 18" wide top. It is still completely flat.

The only thing I would recommend is finishing both sides to reduce the possibility of a differential moisture absorption.
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#18
Do not cut that nice walnut board!! I have many pieces of walnut furniture that I have made over the years with wide boards (16" to 21" wide) all air dried and not one problem. It's just a wives tale to cut wide boards into smaller pieces then glue back up. Plane the board to about 1/8" over thick then let its moisture content stabilize then finish planing to final thickness. Properly attach top and you won't have any problems.

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#19
(03-08-2018, 08:33 PM)SteveS Wrote: The only thing I would recommend is finishing both sides to reduce the possibility of a differential moisture absorption.

That sounds like very good advice!
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#20
Leave it as it is! I noticed in your picture you showed a hand plane. Were it me, I would hand plane it smooth & level, edge plane it, then leave it to acclimate to your shop. Make sure it gets air to both sides. After 3 - 4 days, check for level & square, do what have to there, & start sanding.

As mentioned, whether you spray or hand stain, use particular caution & get both sides. Otherwise you will have problems.

I wouldn't use a quick setting glue in this case for the simple reason of when you place the board on top, & on your frame, let the glue do it's job before you start puttin' screws in it. That way it is settled in place, & will be in its permanent spot. Then when you start to screw it down, put your screws in carefully. If you put all your screws in one side first, it will pull to that direction. Even being glued. So put your screws in across the board back & forth. jmo from experience. It's a good teacher.
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