Just got my new Freud 10" x 40 tooth general purpose blade
#11
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JN...UTF8&psc=1

This blade scored very well on a recent magazine test (I think it was Fine Woodworking). $97.00 from Amazon.com

I mounted it yesterday and made some test cuts.

  1. 3/4" plywood, oak veneer, with the grain:  Excellent cut, very clean, no chipping.
  2. 3/4" plywood, oak veneer, cross grain:  Excellent cut, very clean, no chipping.
  3. 3/4" MDF, very clean cut
  4. 3/4" particle board, very clean cut
  5. 3/4" melamine particle board, very good, but not as good as my negative hook angle cross cut blade
  6. 3/4" poplar cross cut, excellent cut, very smooth edges
  7. 3/4" poplar, rip.  Clean cut, but cuts a bit slower than I am used to.
  8. 1/2" think polypropylene cutting board, very smooth cut.
The cutting board was for a new zero-clearance insert, which I have not put in yet.  The melamine board cut might improve, but I doubt it.  I tried one cut with a scoring cut first and I still had a couple of noticeable chips.  But a dangerously sharp edge on the melamine board nonetheless.

I think I will be very happy with this blade, especially once I have the zero-clearance insert in place.
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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#12
(03-12-2018, 09:43 AM)Cooler Wrote: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JN...UTF8&psc=1

This blade scored very well on a recent magazine test (I think it was Fine Woodworking). $97.00 from Amazon.com

I mounted it yesterday and made some test cuts.

  1. 3/4" plywood, oak veneer, with the grain:  Excellent cut, very clean, no chipping.
  2. 3/4" plywood, oak veneer, cross grain:  Excellent cut, very clean, no chipping.
  3. 3/4" MDF, very clean cut
  4. 3/4" particle board, very clean cut
  5. 3/4" melamine particle board, very good, but not as good as my negative hook angle cross cut blade
  6. 3/4" poplar cross cut, excellent cut, very smooth edges
  7. 3/4" poplar, rip.  Clean cut, but cuts a bit slower than I am used to.
  8. 1/2" think polypropylene cutting board, very smooth cut.
The cutting board was for a new zero-clearance insert, which I have not put in yet.  The melamine board cut might improve, but I doubt it.  I tried one cut with a scoring cut first and I still had a couple of noticeable chips.  But a dangerously sharp edge on the melamine board nonetheless.

I think I will be very happy with this blade, especially once I have the zero-clearance insert in place.

I have always associated a higher tooth count with cleaner cuts. Is this a different technology or something that would make this preferable to something like an 80 tooth blade for crosscutting plywood?
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#13
(03-12-2018, 09:51 AM)FS7 Wrote: I have always associated a higher tooth count with cleaner cuts. Is this a different technology or something that would make this preferable to something like an 80 tooth blade for crosscutting plywood?

Yeah, me too.  I have two high-count carbide blades for plywood, MDF and particle board.  This seems to cut better than either of them.  

I use a narrow kerf rip blade most of the time for ripping and it cuts faster than this new blade which is substantially wider (I have a Delta Contractor's 2 saw and it is not very powerful).

I imagine it has something to do with the angles on the carbide.  But for a combination blade this is showing me some remarkable cuts.

I have a negative hook angle fine tooth blade (for my radial arm saw) and it seems to be better for the melamine coated particle board, but I am reserving judgement until I have the zero clearance insert in place.

Fine Woodworking's article is locked on line and I cannot access it.  

Canadian Woodworking Magazine rated the Freud #1 with "excellent" across the board:

https://www.canadianwoodworking.com/tool...saw-blades
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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#14
(03-12-2018, 10:31 AM)Cooler Wrote: Yeah, me too.  I have two high-count carbide blades for plywood, MDF and particle board.  This seems to cut better than either of them.  

I use a narrow kerf rip blade most of the time for ripping and it cuts faster than this new blade which is substantially wider (I have a Delta Contractor's 2 saw and it is not very powerful).

I imagine it has something to do with the angles on the carbide.  But for a combination blade this is showing me some remarkable cuts.

I have a negative hook angle fine tooth blade (for my radial arm saw) and it seems to be better for the melamine coated particle board, but I am reserving judgement until I have the zero clearance insert in place.

Fine Woodworking's article is locked on line and I cannot access it.  

Canadian Woodworking Magazine rated the Freud #1 with "excellent" across the board:

https://www.canadianwoodworking.com/tool...saw-blades

Interesting. This may be worth a look. It's also one of the only blades I can see listed as a combination blade that doesn't have spaced larger gullets for material removal on it.

But hey, if it cuts like a dream, it cuts like a dream. I like my Freud blades. It sounds like it may be worth its cost.
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#15
What is the difference between cutting with an 40-tooth ATB at a feed rate half that used for an 80-tooth ATB?

Wouldn't it be the same # of teeth per distance cut?

I read a book on industrial woodworking machinery (think automated machinery) and it seemed to be the case that the differences in tooth quantity only matters when you had a fixed feed rate or didn't want to slow your feed rate while maintaining cut quality.

But the machines being employed were pushing stock far faster than we ever would.
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#16
The Premier Fusion blade has been around for several years.  What's different about the "Next Generation" fusion blade (which was introduced nearly 4 years ago)?  The original Premier Fusion is a decent blade, comparable to a Forrest WWII.  Only problem with them is many sharpening services can't sharpen them because of the grind having a double side grind on the blade.  At least that was an issue several years ago.  Maybe there are more services that can accommodate the blade these days.
Still Learning,

Allan Hill
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#17
(03-12-2018, 09:43 AM)Cooler Wrote:
  1. 3/4" poplar, rip.  Clean cut, but cuts a bit slower than I am used to.

The more teeth, the more effort to push it thru the cut.
Steve

Mo.



I miss the days of using my dinghy with a girlfriend too. Zack Butler-4/18/24


 
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020








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#18
(03-12-2018, 02:36 PM)Stwood_ Wrote: The more teeth, the more effort to push it thru the cut.

I have two rip blades.  One 1/8" thick Dewalt premium blade and it does a nice job of ripping, and a narrow kerf Freud that cuts quickly but leaves more of a tool mark.  I  rarely use the thicker blade anymore.  I sand the pieces anyway and it takes care of the tool marks.  But The think kerf allows me to cut faster.  I think it has more to do with the thinner blade than the number of teeth.
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
Reply
#19
(03-12-2018, 09:43 AM)Cooler Wrote: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JN...UTF8&psc=1

This blade scored very well on a recent magazine test (I think it was Fine Woodworking). $97.00 from Amazon.com

I mounted it yesterday and made some test cuts.

  1. 3/4" plywood, oak veneer, with the grain:  Excellent cut, very clean, no chipping.
  2. 3/4" plywood, oak veneer, cross grain:  Excellent cut, very clean, no chipping.
  3. 3/4" MDF, very clean cut
  4. 3/4" particle board, very clean cut
  5. 3/4" melamine particle board, very good, but not as good as my negative hook angle cross cut blade
  6. 3/4" poplar cross cut, excellent cut, very smooth edges
  7. 3/4" poplar, rip.  Clean cut, but cuts a bit slower than I am used to.
  8. 1/2" think polypropylene cutting board, very smooth cut.
The cutting board was for a new zero-clearance insert, which I have not put in yet.  The melamine board cut might improve, but I doubt it.  I tried one cut with a scoring cut first and I still had a couple of noticeable chips.  But a dangerously sharp edge on the melamine board nonetheless.

I think I will be very happy with this blade, especially once I have the zero-clearance insert in place.

Fantastic cross cut blade, IMHO. I have two. My only complaint is it becomes dull faster than a WWII, when cross cutting. I guess with the Hi angle, its to be expected. 

Ive never used it for ripping, I have two rip blades, and two WWII that I use when I dont want to swap.

Once Favre hangs it up though, it years of cellar dwelling for the Pack. (Geoff 12-18-07)  



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#20
(03-12-2018, 03:23 PM)Cooler Wrote: I have two rip blades.  One 1/8" thick Dewalt premium blade and it does a nice job of ripping, and a narrow kerf Freud that cuts quickly but leaves more of a tool mark.  I  rarely use the thicker blade anymore.  I sand the pieces anyway and it takes care of the tool marks.  But The think kerf allows me to cut faster.  I think it has more to do with the thinner blade than the number of teeth.

I run thin kerf 95% of the time. 40T blade takes more effort to push than a 24T blade.
24T less burning, rougher cut
40T smoother cut, prone to burning in say, cherry
Steve

Mo.



I miss the days of using my dinghy with a girlfriend too. Zack Butler-4/18/24


 
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020








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