Track saw work flow
#11
My new track saw is due to arrive today and already it is giving me headaches.

It relates to work flow.

I don't use factory cuts on sheet goods.  They are never clean enough for cabinet work in my opinion.  Also I find it difficult to carry 4' x 8' sheets of plywood, particle board or MDF down to my basement.  For that reason I usually have the lumber yard break down the sheets for me into more manageable sizes.

For base cabinets I have them break it down to 48" x 32" pieces.  For upper cabinets I usually have them break it down to 24" x 8' pieces.

So I need to create a fresh sawn edge and then I need to square it up.  I know how I would do that on the table saw; I am not sure of the work flow for the track saw.

I also have radial arm saw that is good for up to about 16" cut.  That might be more efficient than the track saw for cutting upper cabinet sides to length.  

Any suggestions?
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#12
I just got my first track-saw and used it to rip down 8 sheets for a project I'm working on. Not just breakdown the 4x8 but make final cuts. Wow what a difference not having to manhandle large sheets over the table-saw! And the cuts were cleaner as well.

Can't answer your question about the factory edges really other than to say I guess your first track cut would have to be to trim off that edge to your liking. Why are the factory edges not good enough? Aren't edges usually hidden inside dados or covered with face frame anyway?

Anyway I'd buy full sheets and then setup a staging area in the garage. Do your major breakdowns there with the tracksaw and then haul that into the basement shop.

One thing to be careful of if you are making finished cuts with the tracksaw (where you're just laying the track over the marks you've made) is that you are actually square.
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#13
(03-14-2018, 07:41 AM)mound Wrote: I just got my first track-saw and used it to rip down 8 sheets for a project I'm working on. Not just breakdown the 4x8 but make final cuts.  Wow what a difference not having to manhandle large sheets over the table-saw! And the cuts were cleaner as well.

Can't answer your question about the factory edges really other than to say I guess your first track cut would have to be to trim off that edge to your liking.  Why are the factory edges not good enough? Aren't edges usually hidden inside dados or covered with face frame anyway?

Anyway I'd buy full sheets and then setup a staging area in the garage. Do your major breakdowns there with the tracksaw and then haul that into the basement shop.

One thing to be careful of if you are making finished cuts with the tracksaw (where you're just laying the track over the marks you've made) is that you are actually square.
I ordered the 32" Woodpecker's T-square (guaranteed accurate to ± 0.001", though they don't call out the angular accuracy).  I should be OK with drawing accurate right angle lines.

https://www.woodpeck.com/tsquare.html

<iframe width="460" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Rg7tzy9PBHo" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>
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#14
(03-14-2018, 07:27 AM)Cooler Wrote: My new track saw is due to arrive today and already it is giving me headaches.

It relates to work flow.

I don't use factory cuts on sheet goods.  They are never clean enough for cabinet work in my opinion.  Also I find it difficult to carry 4' x 8' sheets of plywood, particle board or MDF down to my basement.  For that reason I usually have the lumber yard break down the sheets for me into more manageable sizes.

For base cabinets I have them break it down to 48" x 32" pieces.  For upper cabinets I usually have them break it down to 24" x 8' pieces.

So I need to create a fresh sawn edge and then I need to square it up.  I know how I would do that on the table saw; I am not sure of the work flow for the track saw.

I also have radial arm saw that is good for up to about 16" cut.  That might be more efficient than the track saw for cutting upper cabinet sides to length.  

Any suggestions?

Plywood is unwieldy no matter who you are or what your space is. Sometimes I take mine in the shop and break it down in there, and sometimes I do it outside.

I try to avoid having the supplier break anything down since their tooling is rarely sharp and when they crosscut anything I lose a good two inches on either side from the chipout. Home Depot is the worst on this, but lumber suppliers are only a little better. I also find at least one factory edge is usually a little rough, but not always.

In any case, here's how I do it. Keep in mind that I don't have tracksaw, but my setup is similar (circular saw with a guide). If the edges need cleaning up, I will do the long side first and shave off about 1/8" to clean the edge. I'll then do the short edge, using the cut edge as a reference to make sure they are square. This way if my first cut isn't square, I'll have a reference edge to square from, and then two clean edges that meet at 90. The opposite sides are waste.

After that, break down as normal. On longer cuts when I am particularly concerned about being square, I will draw lines from both edges to make sure they meet appropriately.

I hope that makes sense, but I'm afraid it may not. Now that I type it out I realize it sounds a bit arcane. I guess I don't use too much plywood. I'll have to revisit this when I redo my kitchen.
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#15
I don't have a track saw but do use a clamped straight edge to break down my lumber.

If you don't like the factory edge for use in cabinets over cut your board by around 2".  Then cut the board on both edges to clean it up.  Alternatively cut one clean edge with the tracksaw then use the table saw to cut to final size using the tablesaw.
A carpenter's house is never done.
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#16
I make face frame cabinets.  The plywood edge that butts against the face frame needs to be clean.  The bottom edges need to be clean too.  At that point I really want to have all the edges to have a nice clean cut.  So I only use the factory edges for squareness.  

I'm sure I will work it out.  

I will also have to consider when it makes sense to use the track saw, and when it makes sense to use the table saw or radial arm saw.  Choosing the RAS is simple.  I am already making that choice when I am using the table saw.  

If I have a 14" x 40" board and I need to cut it to 39" I will always resort to the RAS.  The same goes for a groove (dado) across the short dimension.  I imagine I will continue to make that same choice with the track saw.  Using the RAS is easy, safe and fast.  I can set up a stop and make dozens of uniform cuts in less time than it would take to make the measurement for the track saw.  

I will probably use the table saw for other grooves on wider stock that I can control easily with the fence.  

I hadn't planned on using the track saw to cut the pieces to smaller sizes in the garage.  That certainly is a reasonable approach.
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#17
I use a track saw, and followed the Eurekazone forum for quite some time. The first video was made by the manufacturer/designer of the EZ-Smart system, the second is by a gentleman who was a large contributor to the forum and knows his stuff. These two videos show how to process panels from sheet goods using a 54" or so track. The first video shows a device that clamps to the track to align the track for a 90* cut. Each manufacturer has something similar. The second video just shows the work process for breaking down and sheet goods, and starts with making a trim cut on the end for your initial reference. By processing in this order you don't need an 8ft track. Note that the system shown includes a small block underneath the saw base on the side of the blade opposite the track. This small block gives zero clearance support to the top outside (opposite the track) of the blade that then provides for no tearout on the offcut piece. This is important for processing panels from the middle of the larger sheet. I don't know which brand tracksaw system you purchased, but they likely have something similar. Hope this helps.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_conti...VFXSdkGm94

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2A9vy0Z9JmE
Train to be miserable...
that way when the real misery starts you won't notice.
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#18
FWIW-- I put the factory edge on dividers/end panels to the back. The end panels get a rabbit to receive the back. The dividers get covered by the back. If it's a little rough I hit it with the ROS and some 180 first.

I just know if I try to trim 1/8" off an end or side it'll no longer be square. lol
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#19
(03-14-2018, 01:43 PM)GlenS Wrote: I just know if I try to trim 1/8" off an end or side it'll no longer be square. lol

Are you talking about a using a tracksaw or even on a table saw you won't end up square?
A carpenter's house is never done.
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#20
(03-14-2018, 07:27 AM)Cooler Wrote: For base cabinets I have them break it down to 48" x 32" pieces.  For upper cabinets I usually have them break it down to 24" x 8' pieces.


Seems to be some odd sizing. What size are your final cab sides?

Seems you would want them to rip them all down the middle of the 8' length, leaving you 23-15/16" rips
Steve

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The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
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