Track saw work flow

[Cooler]

Seems to be some odd sizing. What size are your final cab sides?

Seems you would want them to rip them all down the middle of the 8' length, leaving you 23-15/16" rips

I get two base cabinet sides from each 32" panel.  I throw out a few inches at the top and bottom.  It leaves enough extra that if the lumber yard messes up the  cut I sitll can get a good panel.

[Stwood_]

Ok. You and I cut differently then. I can get 4 end cabinet panels from a sheet, and 6 inner panels from a sheet.
If I tuck the base under that end panel, I can also get 6 end panels. Just depends....

[jppierson]

Since your question has to do with workflow. I find that if you think through how you would use the table saw isn't any different with the track saw except the circ saw moves and not the material. This is why I prefer to ensure the track is clamped to the material vs relying on gravity. The main advantages of the track saw in breaking down sheet goods is that: 1. The saw moves and not the material 2. Portability, this means if you have a battery operated saw, take it to the store with you and break down the goods there 3. safety (the spinning part is guarded from body parts by the track and base of the saw). Slide the sheet goods from the back of your truck then use the tail gate and a sawhorse or two, then make your breakdown cuts. Take the smaller parts to the other devices of your choice.

[photobug]

For those of you with tracksaws, do you use the tracksaw for all the cuts to get the sheet goods to dimension?  Or do you just use the tracksaw to get the plywood to working sized to take it to the table saw?

[Lynden]

There is a lot of tracksaw use in this kitchen cabinet video series.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jrx1J9vr3Rg

[jppierson]

For those of you with tracksaws, do you use the tracksaw for all the cuts to get the sheet goods to dimension?  Or do you just use the tracksaw to get the plywood to working sized to take it to the table saw?

I use the tracksaw for all my plywood cuts. I don't own a tablesaw. I have an adapter mechanism for my router that uses the track for my router to do dados or edgerouting. This allows me to either move the router along the track or lock it down and tunnel route (sort of like a router table only upside down.

[Cooler]

The track saw came in last night.  I only had time to inspect for damage.  Everything looks fine.  

I don't mind saying that it does not look like $800.00 worth of goods though.  A saw.  A 55" track and a vacuum hose.   $800.00?  Really.


I did buy a Bosch vacuum hose.  It fits the saw (but not the bayonet, which has to be removed) and it fits my shop vac.  I'm sure that the factory vacuum is very convenient but costs another $700.00.  This will have to do for a while.

[GlenS]

photobug-- I use a homemade 3/4" plywood track with my circ saw. Regardless of how I cut it I just feel like the factory has the jigs to get it square & my trying to tune it up before breaking it down is gonna remove that factory jig squareness. Might just be a confidence thing on my end.

[Stwood_]

Only time my tracksaw sees any light is when I cannot make a ply cut with my tablesaw, say a 49" cut.
My tablesaw is limited to 48"

[Bit_Fiddler]

The track saw came in last night.  I only had time to inspect for damage.  Everything looks fine.  

I don't mind saying that it does not look like $800.00 worth of goods though.  A saw.  A 55" track and a vacuum hose.   $800.00?  Really.


I did buy a Bosch vacuum hose.  It fits the saw (but not the bayonet, which has to be removed) and it fits my shop vac.  I'm sure that the factory vacuum is very convenient but costs another $700.00.  This will have to do for a while.

I have a DeWalt track saw and 2 55" sections of track.   I also bought the little bar to join the 2 sections of track together to make 1 long track - They fit well and the saw crosses the joint smoothly.  I also had the same issue with cost for what you got...  I ended up buying a refurb unit that saved me a few bucks but looked brand new.

I set up a couple of sawhorses with 54" 2x6's on the top - wider than the full sheet of ply I am breaking down.   I lay several 8 foot 2x4s across the sawhorses to form a bed.  I then place a 4x8  1.5" sheet of rigid foam insulation across the 2x4s for my cutting surface.   I can lift/set the ply onto the sawhorses 1 at a time fairly easily and then tip it down onto the foam for cutting.   I make my long cuts first, sometimes I clean up the factory edge with the track saw, sometimes I cut a little wide to clean up on the tablesaw later.  No noticeable difference in cut quality, to be honest...   Cutting slightly into the rigid foam seems to help the cut quality on the underside of the ply.   Using a Dust Deputy with my vac seems to collect all of the dust.   Once I have the long cuts made, I decide if I can cut them on my RAS or separate the tracks and make additional cuts with the track saw.  For me, it is dramatically easier to break down ply using this method than to wrestle sheets on the tablesaw by myself.

Dave