Bowl gouge

[Scoony]

I mostly do spindle turning for furniture parts, and don't often need a bowl gouge.

Once in a while I turn turkey pot calls that are 4" dia x 1" thick, and occasionally whiskey bottle/shot glass holders which are 10" dia x 2" thick. I have been using scrapers to shape them, but that ends up requiring a lot of sanding.

Would a bowl gouge leave a cleaner surface, and reduce sanding time?  Which size would I need?

[MichaelMouse]

I mostly do spindle turning for furniture parts, and don't often need a bowl gouge.

Once in a while I turn turkey pot calls that are 4" dia x 1" thick, and occasionally whiskey bottle/shot glass holders which are 10" dia x 2" thick. I have been using scrapers to shape them, but that ends up requiring a lot of sanding.

Would a bowl gouge leave a cleaner surface, and reduce sanding time?  Which size would I need?

Gouges would leave a smoother surface if used properly. Don't need "bowl" gouges unless you're forced to keep the toolrest waaay back from the work (dangerous).  Gouges allow you to cut across the grain and peel down when properly applied.  You can get a whole set of HSS tools for less than 100 bucks from PSI. 

Carbon steel set here for less than 60. https://www.amazon.com/GreatNeck-800-Pie...g+tool+set   

I'm still using something similar that came with my lathe more than 30 years ago, and I've done thousands of pieces.

[Scoony]

I have a complete set of tools minus a bowl gouge. For some reason, I was thinking that using spindle gouges on end grain was not safe, but maybe I miss read something.

What tool is optimal for the edge of a turkey call?

Also whats a good technique to get a nice clean flat surface for the bottom (face grain) of say a 4" disc

[MidwestMan]

I have a complete set of tools minus a bowl gouge. For some reason, I was thinking that using spindle gouges on end grain was not safe, but maybe I miss read something.

What tool is optimal for the edge of a turkey call?

Also whats a good technique to get a nice clean flat surface for the bottom (face grain) of say a 4" disc

You are right. DO NOT use spindle gouges on the end grain (as in the inside of a bowl). Each tool, the Spindle Gouge and the Bowl Gouge are NOT the same. there is a tang on the spindle gouge and its connection to the handle is far weaker, than how a bowl gouge is attached to the handle.

From what I understand, if the catch is severe enough (while using a spindle gouge on the inside of the bowl), the tool might just break off and the handle side of the tool metal, could bounce off and strike you right in the face, like a thrown knife.

It's a big no no.

[MidwestMan]

I have a complete set of tools minus a bowl gouge. For some reason, I was thinking that using spindle gouges on end grain was not safe, but maybe I miss read something.

What tool is optimal for the edge of a turkey call?

Also whats a good technique to get a nice clean flat surface for the bottom (face grain) of say a 4" disc

A skew would leave a very nice slicing cut, if you know how. Either type gouge would be worth a try also. Cutting from the center to the edge can work, or from the edge to the center too. (if you know how)

[PVW]

I mostly do spindle turning for furniture parts, and don't often need a bowl gouge.

Once in a while I turn turkey pot calls that are 4" dia x 1" thick, and occasionally whiskey bottle/shot glass holders which are 10" dia x 2" thick. I have been using scrapers to shape them, but that ends up requiring a lot of sanding.

Would a bowl gouge leave a cleaner surface, and reduce sanding time?  Which size would I need?

I have a BIG Ugly I made with planer blade cutters and flat bar stock. Turn all my bowls with it . Haven't used the bowl gouge since.
Check out Robo Hippie's u tube

[Arlin Eastman]

The best way is called a Shear Scrap and you can use a scrapper or bowl gouge and on small things 3/8" spindle gouge or even a 1/2" gouge.

I use my bowl gouge almost 90% of the time.  A video a long time ago which Del Stubbs did shows how to use the scrapper to do it,  or Lyle Jamieson shows the bowl gouge and what he calls a shear scrap and I found his way is the best and if I get a scrapper I will do it Del Stubbs way.

Here is Lyles Youtube link

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BDIvtr7StuA

[MichaelMouse]

I have a complete set of tools minus a bowl gouge. For some reason, I was thinking that using spindle gouges on end grain was not safe, but maybe I miss read something.

What tool is optimal for the edge of a turkey call?

Also whats a good technique to get a nice clean flat surface for the bottom (face grain) of say a 4" disc

Long grain work - planing - responds best to cuts by straight or skewed chisels, though equally well to broad sweep gouges.  Can't make small coves with them, but that's where the smaller gouges in the set come into play.  Use like a regular plane, skewed in the cut, not like a scrub plane, ripping out a chunk, and the surface will almost defy sanding.  

End grain hollowing - which, I take it is what you want to do - commonly uses a bore to near required depth, then a peel of the sides to enlarge.  I use a ring tool, or a pointy gouge for that kind of work.  Pointy gouge, ground back as this cylindrical "spindle gouge" is ground, is inserted into the bore, tilted and dragged out of the top. 

   

Look at the shavings, and you can see what kind of surface is left behind.  The shavings are smooth edged initially, feathered edged as the edge leaves the cut.  That's what you always want in a shaving, and it leaves a surface nearly comparable to a chisel on a spindle.  You may use the ring tool (Termite) or even a fingernail grind gouge where you have good opening side, but they take a really narrow shaving, which may demand sanding the ridges if you don't have the most adept hand.  

   

The remarks about spindle gouges and breaking the tang indicate three fundamental errors on the part of the operator.  First the toolrest is too far from the work, giving mechanical advantage you do not need to give.  Second, the tool is not presented to cut, but to scrape.  Think a scrub plane rather than a block. High friction operation which leaves a lousy surface anyway.  Third, the turner is not following the basic rule, contacting the work at or above center while making convex cuts, and below center when making concave (hollowing) cuts.  That way there's air over the tool, not wood which might "catch."   Fundamentals. 

As to flat bottoms, most turnings have an elevated "ring" to rest on, so they won't high center.  Sort of a really shallow bowl.  If you need an absolutely flat surface, revert to flatwork techniques after making a rough surface with the lathe rotating using gouge/scraper, then stopping the lathe and using a plane or cabinet scraper prior to final sanding with a board-backed paper.