Glass cutting ?
#11
For the longest time I could not cut glass, then I got a really good cutter.
Yesterday I had 3 pieces that the cuts failed. The only thing I can think of is the glass was cold- maybe 30 degrees. I went to the local Ace ang picked up more glass, and it cut fine.

Any experience with cold glass not cutting?

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#12
My wife does lead and glass windows and keeps the room in the 60's and cleans each piece before cutting. She says the glass scores and breaks much better when clean.
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#13
I used to work in a glass shop when I got out of high school.
We would score the glass, then pour alcohol on it & light it on fire.
The glass cracked right along the score every time.

These days, you could use a hair dryer to do the same thing.
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#14
Hair dryers weren't invented then?

Interesting...I'll try that next time. It makes sense...rapid temp change changes shape and the weakest point fails.
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#15
Beginner method.

Score (one steady pass) from the beginning to the end (don't stop short of either end).

Place a dowel (3/8" or 1/2"; 1/4" will probably work too), directly under the score line in the glass (on the unscored side).

Press gently on the glass on both sides until it snaps.

The dowel method is almost fool proof (provided you have an adequate score like).

I have a Fletcher-Terry glass cutter, but at $2,500.00 (nowadays) it probably does not pay to buy one.  (But foolproof scoring and snapping with this machine.)


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#16
May I re-ask the OP's question in a slightly different way? I rarely need to cut glass. When I do, I usually have trouble getting a good score line with the typical hand held tool without using a lot of pressure and repeated passes. Do I need a better tool? Can you get a "good" tool without spending a lot of money?
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#17
Will you- I spent about $30 on my hand held cutter. It made a world of difference. I will look for a link later today

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#18
(03-20-2018, 10:18 AM)Willyou Wrote: May I re-ask the OP's question in a slightly different way? I rarely need to cut glass. When I do, I usually have trouble getting a good score line with the typical hand held tool without using a lot of pressure and repeated passes.  Do I need a better tool? Can you get a "good" tool without spending a lot of money?

Yes, you need a better tool.  I don't know what you consider a 'lot' of money.   A glass cutter was one of those things where I didn't need it often, but when I did it needed to work, at least until I started making picture frames, then I was cutting glass often.  A good score line comes from pressure and pushing the tool rather than pulling it.  Your glass also needs to be sitting on something that will protect it but not be too soft.  I always cut mine on craft paper.
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#19
(03-20-2018, 10:18 AM)Willyou Wrote: May I re-ask the OP's question in a slightly different way? I rarely need to cut glass. When I do, I usually have trouble getting a good score line with the typical hand held tool without using a lot of pressure and repeated passes.  Do I need a better tool? Can you get a "good" tool without spending a lot of money?
Fletcher makes the Cadillac of hand scoring tools.  

The one pictured costs about $20.00.

They make a deluxe one with an oil reservoir for about $65.00.  But for occasional use it is not a good value.

They sell replacement carbide wheels so it is a long lasting tool.  

A ketchup squirt bottle filled with kerosene makes lubricating the line easy.  Just lay a narrow puddle of kerosene over the proposed cut line, then score.  The carbide will last longer.  

I always cut dry because as a picture framer, the kerosene represented a contaminant that would have to be cleaned off.

https://www.amazon.com/CRL-Fletcher%C2%A...cher&psc=1

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If you are cutting by hand, there is no need to measure.  Just place the glass over the frame or mat board that is the correct size and use the actual item as a guide.  

Breaking over a dowel will usually assure a clean break.  The problem most people have is that they don't start the score at the very edge of the cut and they let up pressure at the end of the cut. 

When I cut I like to feel the cutter "climb" onto the glass and feel the cutter fall off the glass at the end of the score.  Once you get the hang of it, glass cutting is really simple.  But cutting narrow strips is very, very difficult.  You will have an impossible time trimming off 1/4" or 1/2" from a piece of glass.  Even 1" is difficult.  

If it is a narrow strip use a flat board to apply pressure on the strip while it is resting on the dowel.

Too much pressure on the scoring blade will make a wide score and it might not snap cleanly.

You can also snap the glass by placing the score directly over the edge of a table, but you will have to hold onto the scrap to keep if from falling to the floor.

Cut glass is dangerous.  They make dedicated tools for dulling the cut edges of glass, but a hand held carbide knife sharpener works well.  Just draw it along the edge, it will dress both the top and bottom at the same time.  Do this for all the edges and it will be safe to handle.

Something like this works fine (it looks a lot like the glass edge dressing device), use the carbide side.  $4.00 at Amazon.com

https://www.amazon.com/Smiths-CCKS-2-Ste...B00032S02K

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#20
Clean, Lube and cut ( the sound it makes is what will tell you if you have enough pressure and it is not skipping on the surface)

Temp should not be an issue.


Al
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