Bandsaw Blade Question
#17
BS manufacturers are universally optimistic, let's say, about the max. width blade their machines can handle.  My rule of thumb is to never use the max. width blade, go one width narrower.  But the only way to really know how wide a blade your saw can adequately tension is to measure the tension.  This is easy to do with nothing more than a set of 6" Vernier calipers and two little C-clamps.  I can explain how if you are interested.  

When I said adequately tension I mean 25,000 psi, or more.  Tension is what gives a blade beam strength and the ability to cut straight.  At low tension you have to cut much slower or the blade will wander back and forth or, worse, bow in the cut.  This is what makes Timberwolf blades which are supposed to be run at low tension inherently unattractive to me.  Thicker blades will be stiffer and track straighter than a narrower blade but only if you can put adequate tension on it.  A 0.035" thick blade takes 40% more spring force to tension than one 0.025" thick.  

I'm pretty sure most any blade can be resharpened.  The question is how hard is it to do and is it worth it.  Personally, I wouldn't try to sharpen anything finer than 2 or 3 tpi.  I wouldn't try sharpening carbide either, although some do.  I bought the Woodmaster GK and C blades with the intention of seeing how easy they are to resharpen and how well they cut afterwards.  I've read that bi-metal will cut 6 times as much as carbon steel blades, and carbide 10X before getting dull.  My experience with bi-metal doesn't support that assessment and my Woodmaster CT broke before it got dull.  At this point, I'm guessing that if I can resharpen the GK and C blades even just twice I will be even money with bi-metal.  No guess to equal the carbide since it broke.  

Personally, I think if you have two each of 3 different blades you can handle anything thrown at you.  You can get new blades in a week or less.  Don't spend a fortune before you know what you really need.  

John
Reply
#18
Dave

Remember I am not a professional on the bandsaw but have had a few decades of using one both at home and in the Sheet metal/Machine shop

The other one you are talking about is this?

(Also some smooth cut curves both med & small.)

If that is the case it is like cutting bandsaw boxes and most guys use two blades 3/16 and 1/4.

I do not remember the radius of each of which I think the 3/16 is 1/4" or 5/16 and the 1/4 is around 1/2" radius.  I hope someone will correct what I said.
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification.  Thank You Everyone.

It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
Reply
#19
I have had a Whites Classic III metal detector for years which is a full-size, long arm, ground sweeping detector with dial controls to adjust sensitivity, discrimination and frequency, as well as a normal/black sand switch and a ground exclusion balance / discrimination momentary switch (kind'a complicated). This detector is designed to be sensitive at various depths, but also allows adjustment to reject junk metal and focus on the more precious metals. I haven't used it for woodworking, but since I have it available, I might tinker with it when I begin reclaiming the wood from schoolhouse, just to see what it will pick up. You can do some experimentation with your wife's detector using some sample nails or such located inside or beneath some wood to see what it detects, keeping in mind that it may be designed to reject steel and focus more on metals of value.

For woodworking, I have the Little Wizard II metal detector ($25.50 from Woodcraft). The detector is a convenient handheld size, has a single combination calibration & on/off dial switch and gives both an audible sound and visual led's when metal is detected. I've had satisfactory performance with it thus far and keep it located adjacent to my saws for easy use. Not all wood should need a detector, but when working with something that might be questionable, it can be an asset.

I debated a number of blade options and it can become mind boggling deciding what to choose, particularly in deciding what blade to get for each individual project. While switching blades can be done, keep in mind that each change can take a bit of time and require minor disassembly, upper & lower guide adjustment, reassembly, proper tensioning and perhaps some final fine adjustments. All told, it can be easy to find yourself spending more time changing blades than you spend actually cutting wood, particularly if only needing to perform one or two tasks before switching to something else. I was in much the same position as you in wanting multiple blades, but quickly found that unless I am in need of particular specialty cut (i.e. resawing), most tasks can be handled by defaulting to my 1/4", 6tpi Diemaster 2 that is my present leave-on-the-saw, go-to blade for general purpose cutting, or with my 1/2", 4tpi Diemaster 2 if more is needed (also capable of handling a variety of tasks). Those two blades allowed me to get free shipping from bandsawbladesdirect.com and to get my feet wet at an affordable cost. A variety of woodworkers have more than one bandsaw set up with different blades to avoid frequent blade changes, but that isn't in my budget at the present. Of course, your individual needs may vary. I have never used the bandsaw to cut plastic or acrylic so can't make any recommendations in that area, but know that in some work I've done with plastics, melting & fusing itself back together can be something to keep in mind.

For resaw work in clean & dry wood, the Laguna Resaw King blade is outstanding with many good reviews & recommendations (including mine). The blade creates a superb, smooth and straight cut with great life and is capable of being resharpened ($45 @ Laguna) multiple times. Compared to other carbide blades, the $174.99 cost (with free shipping from Lagunatools.com) for a 131.5", 3/4" blade is definitely worth consideration.

The shipping for the Lenox blades from bandsawbladesdirect.com and for the Resaw King from Lagunatools.com are surprisingly fast and that is even after placing my orders on a Friday evening.

The actual thickness of the blades I am running is about .025" which seems to work well with a 17" / 18" bandsaw, with thicker blades often requiring a larger saw for proper tensioning and to prevent breakage. For curved cutting, guidelines showing the saw blade width and corresponding radius of cut can be found by doing a search for: bandsaw blade radius chart. I concur with rounding the back of the blade with a stone and it can make for smoother overall curved cuts.
Reply
#20
(04-18-2018, 04:30 PM)SpiderDave Wrote: I may not be searching properly the site properly, but I can't seem to find very much info about bandsaw blades recommendations. I find it hard to believe it isn't there. Since it's such a common question. But I'm gona ask anyway. 

I just bought a Grizzly 0513X2BF. 131.5" length, 1" max width blade, many already know this saw. like a lot of guys, I'm looking to put a basic group of blades together. I've learned a lot from the advice given. And after going through all of the suggestions and learning more about them, I've decided not to go too terribly cheap on the blades. Some maybe, just depends. 

I'd like to be able to cut green wood. Definitely going to be a lot re-sawing and ripping. I'll need a blade for general straight cuts, thick and thin alike. Also some smooth cut curves both med & small. There's not much I won't be doing with these blaades. I think you all get the idea?

I'd really like to try the Lenox Trimaster. I have found carbide blades connected to links (like Highland Woodworking) but they don't actually 'say' Lenox. Is there such a huge difference to justify the price gap? Are they even Lenox or a knock off just as good - $ 4 $'s?

Bi-Metal has got my attention also.  Any input there? I was feeling good about the Woos SLicer, but after reading more I'm starting to have doubts.  They seem great, but many disagree or suggest better for various reasons.

So far I've found:
1/2" WoodSlicer - $32
1/4" 6 TPI ( hardened steel flex back) - $19.60
Wood Turner's 3/8" 3 TPI ,032 (for the green wood) - $25.99
1/8" flex back, 14TPI (for tight curves)  - $16.79
Premium Carbide Tipped BS, 1/2", 4 TPI, .025 - or would 3/4" inch be better? - $174

This list was put together before I seriously considered bi-metal. Which is what started the doubts once I learned more about it. I thought for the most part I could get this figured out after a few suggestions I was given prior. But now I'm just becoming more indecisive under the pressure of making a solid decision without more input or at least some options. There were others before these. Like the Timber Wolf, and Laguna's another I'm interested in. I'm not expecting perfect, if there is such a thing. I'd just rather start out smart. I likely won't have money for a while to purchase more blades, should there be regrets. So, what I get I'm stuck with for a while. :-) I figure I should get at least one higher end cabide tipped blade for general cuts that can take some abuse (maybe even as a second as a resaw blade?). And the rest I'm thinking Bi-Metal where I can? If I go with a nice cheaper blade, I figure I'll just buy two of them. Am I wrong? If I could stay between $3-$400 max for the group/set, I would be happy.

Also, how do you know if you can sharpen a blade or not?

Can anyone help suggest size, thickness, brand and for what function/use or have anything to ad? I figure 3-5 blades should be enough.  

Thank you ahead of time. Looking forward to anything anyone has to share.
........
I would opt for one I could sharpen right on the saw..and that just may be the cheapest of the ones you listed..You just need a Dremel and a diamond burr ...Look at youtube to see how it's done.
Often Tested.    Always Faithful.      Brothers Forever

Jack Edgar, Sgt. U.S. Marines, Korea, America's Forgotten War
Get off my lawn !
Upset





Reply
#21
Here is the link I posted on sharpening bandsaw blades

https://www.forums.woodnet.net/showthrea...id=7335941
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification.  Thank You Everyone.

It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
Reply
#22
There is a blade supplier that no one has mentioned - Supercut. I have a few blades from them and pretty happy with tracking and durability. I haven't tried their resaw blades yet but will do so.

http://www.supercutbandsaw.com/products.html

They sell both "carbide embedded" and bimetal. I asked them which would last longer and they said it depended on the wood. Bear in mind that "carbide embeded" is NOT the same as carbide tipped.
Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)

Product Recommendations

Here are some supplies and tools we find essential in our everyday work around the shop. We may receive a commission from sales referred by our links; however, we have carefully selected these products for their usefulness and quality.