Would you rip it?
#17
(04-22-2018, 12:57 PM)Roly Wrote: Don't you have to either rip, or join the edges again after flattening ?  Seems like the edges would no longer be 90 degrees to the face unless you flip the sections over then the birds eye would not match..   Roly

Assumption was that the OP had a jointer. As we all know, chances are very small of getting a seamless glue-up unless the edges are jointed square and straight. Also assumes that the four pieces were face jointed and planed flat before edge jointing.

Doug
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#18
(04-22-2018, 11:34 PM)Tapper Wrote: Assumption was that the OP had a jointer. As we all know, chances are very small of getting a seamless glue-up unless the edges are jointed square and straight. Also assumes that the four pieces were face jointed and planed flat before edge jointing.

Doug


Correct. A jointer will come into play during whatever process I decide to go with. Step one is to get rid of the warp, then move to the "normal" milling process.
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#19
I know it's not exactly what you were looking for, but I'd approach it as John suggested: Cut it into veneer and use it over a lesser substrate.
Semper fi,
Brad

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#20
(04-23-2018, 08:17 AM)®smpr_fi_mac® Wrote: I know it's not exactly what you were looking for, but I'd approach it as John suggested:  Cut it into veneer and use it over a lesser substrate.

If it's really nice birdseye then I third that idea.
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#21
A further mind bend: Live with the warped bottom and adjust the base design/dimensions to accommodate.
Thanks,  Curt
-----------------
"Life can only be understood backwards; but it must be lived forwards."
      -- Soren Kierkegaard
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#22
You don't need a jointer to face and edge joint those boards. A scrub plane and a jack or jointer plane will also do the job.

I am fortunate to have a 24" jointer/planer theese days but before I could afford such machinery I handplaned quite a bit. If I could others can.
Part timer living on the western coast of Finland. Not a native speaker of English
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