DIY Panel Clamps!
#29
Update:

I milled the wood parts for the clamps tonight out of poplar and gave it a go. Works great!

It clamps the pieces tightly together AND holds them flat. Wish I had known of these years ago.

Build a set. You'll like them.
Semper fi,
Brad

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#30
What were the thickness and widths that you used?  I was thinking of making a set using plywood as square tubes to hold down the weight, and doubling up the top edge that the post sits in.
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#31
Mine are 1.25x3" and about 40" long. Poplar is pretty light. Even at this size, oak would still not be terribly heavy.
Semper fi,
Brad

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#32
Phil--

I watched that video, too, and considered it, but didn't want to worry about losing/remaking the wedges over and over again. I have a small machine shop at work so I have ready access to a space where machine oil every where (for drilling and cutting metal) isn't a huge concern.

I'm glad I made them. Even though they're a *bit* more work in the beginning, what with drilling and tapping the nut/rod combination (sounds so dirty!), once in action, they're *super* simple to use.

Two thumbs up from me.
Semper fi,
Brad

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#33
(05-18-2018, 08:48 AM)®smpr_fi_mac® Wrote: Phil--

I watched that video, too, and considered it, but didn't want to worry about losing/remaking the wedges over and over again.  I have a small machine shop at work so I have ready access to a space where machine oil every where (for drilling and cutting metal) isn't a huge concern.

I'm glad I made them.  Even though they're a *bit* more work in the beginning, what with drilling and tapping the nut/rod combination (sounds so dirty!), once in action, they're *super* simple to use.

Two thumbs up from me.

I hear ya.

I think the cross-drilled/tapped type you made, combined with the ability to use wingnuts to snug the cauls down, would be the ultimate for me.

I'm probably going to go with the wedges at first and see how they work.  I have 1-1/2" square red-oak cauls already.
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#34
How does the vertical pressure happen if the holes are drilled at 90 degrees.?

Also does the threaded rod cause any issues. Use a bushing over drill rod maybe? Back to the easy to source parts idea I guess. This project is screaming for some metal lathe time to do this hardware prep.
The guy has some cool hand tools though.


Glad its my shop I am responsible for - I only have to make me happy.

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#35
(05-18-2018, 09:29 AM)Phil Thien Wrote: I hear ya.

I think the cross-drilled/tapped type you made, combined with the ability to use wingnuts to snug the cauls down, would be the ultimate for me.

I'm probably going to go with the wedges at first and see how they work.  I have 1-1/2" square red-oak cauls already.

I'm contemplating cutting some plywood discs out and epoxying them to the adjuster bolts so I don't need the wrench, but honestly, even using the wrench is fast--the 3" centers on the holes means not too much adjusting is needed with the wooden block/pad in place.

(05-18-2018, 09:45 AM)BloomingtonMike Wrote: How does the vertical pressure happen if the holes are drilled at 90 degrees.?

Also does the threaded rod cause any issues. Use a bushing over drill rod maybe? Back to the easy to source parts idea I guess. This project is screaming for some metal lathe time to do this hardware prep.
The guy has some cool hand tools though.

I have the same question about the wear on the boards, too. If I find it to be bad, then I'll just bring them back into work and turn the threads off the rods.

I don't know how it tightens *down*. I think it's because the play in the holes allows the rods to shift, pulling the cauls down. Whatever voodoo magic is in play, I'm cool with it!
Semper fi,
Brad

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#36
(05-18-2018, 11:03 AM)®smpr_fi_mac® Wrote: I'm contemplating cutting some plywood discs out and epoxying them to the adjuster bolts so I don't need the wrench, but honestly, even using the wrench is fast--the 3" centers on the holes means not too much adjusting is needed with the wooden block/pad in place.


I have the same question about the wear on the boards, too.  If I find it to be bad, then I'll just bring them back into work and turn the threads off the rods.

I don't know how it tightens *down*.  I think it's because the play in the holes allows the rods to shift, pulling the cauls down.  Whatever voodoo magic is in play, I'm cool with it!

I think the threads would not help any slip down? Keep me up to date on what you see.

You could mount a socket in a driver and pull the trigger or mount a servo and press a button
Smile I sure would leave the hex head on.


Glad its my shop I am responsible for - I only have to make me happy.

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