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I had a good day. I used every tool I own!
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06-03-2018, 06:34 AM
(This post was last modified: 06-03-2018, 06:45 AM by srv52761.
Edit Reason: added post script
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If your finishing skills are good, and can match the color (have to do something, even if you go the filler route), maybe remove all three pieces of the bottom trim? You can sand and scrape smooth and flat, then replace the entire trim so it matches.
If the joint is tight on the other end, then it appears something has happened and the piece is too short anyway.
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p.s. I have had good luck with the use of a heat gun to soften old glue when taking apart chair and table joints to rebuild. Maybe raise the cabinet and you can see the base wood and heat from the back. Slowly with the heat gun and an appropriate distance to not discolor the finish.
My experience is with family pieces. I was under no time constraints, and patience was called for. If this is for a client you would have to weigh a cost/time parameter.
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I wouldn't do anything to it, if there was any chance the dog would continue to chew on it.
Otherwise I'd likely just try to match the finish and leave the gap.
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What is your friend asking you to do?
Gary
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If it were me, I would look at cutting a wedge to fit in, then sanding/shaping it to match the gap.
But if the piece expands again, there will be other problems.
I think Phil is correct, may be best to leave it.
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(06-03-2018, 07:56 AM)Phil Thien Wrote: I wouldn't do anything to it, if there was any chance the dog would continue to chew on it.
Otherwise I'd likely just try to match the finish and leave the gap.
Agree w/ Phil - the dog would have to go if I even thought of some type of repair - an epoxy fill contoured to the molding and then an attempt at matching the adjacent finish would be possible for a pro restorer, BUT if the DOG is still present, then a waste of time - reject the offer would be my opinion. Dave
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(06-02-2018, 10:14 PM)Papa Jim Wrote: The bottom trim pieces on a friend's nice piece of furniture are seperating. That crack is about 3/16" at the widest point. On the other end it's about 1/8". The trim doesn't go all the way to the floor so they are not structural, but I pulled on both pieces and they are firmly attached to the carcass. The owners tell me the finish is gone because their little dog has been chewing on it. I don't see any good options. Even if you could close the gaps with pipe clamps I haven't seen an adhesive yet that won't be eventually be overcome by the internal wood stress that would create. It is certainly not within my capabilities to get those pieces off without destroying them, and duplicating that profile and finish -----I don't even want to think about! The only other thing I can think of I don't even like to mention. I consider filling a crack with wood filler of some kind to be a sign of poor workmanship but in this case it seems perferable to anything else. So, Woodneters, how would you fix this?
I think I found the problem.
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Looks to me that the left trim piece is probably splayed out, creating that corner gap.
Probably came loose when it was dragged sideways at one time or another.
Lay that cabinet on it's side and take a thin blade (thinking hacksaw blade) and clean the buildup/crap/debre out of the open gap and pull it back together with a long clamp or two. Add glue of course.
Steve
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The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
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Miters to a point (as done with this piece) are the absolute worst design condition. They even plague roadways, concrete construction, and child safety--adults, too.
I would cut-in a plinth block.
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Is this piece an antique? The trim may be glued on, if it is glued on with hide glue a heat gun will soften the glue and you can remove it. You could replace the trim with new, doesn't have to be the exact replica , just close enough so it looks right. Assuming the furniture is not an antique. If you use the old trim and have to re-cut the miters a plinth block in the center will be needed. This way the only finish you would have to do is on the plinth block to match the molding. Install with pin nails and glue.
mike
