Shed Project: Framing
#11
Here's a link to the last episode:  Trusses

The walls are standard 2 x 4's, 16 OC construction.  I started with the plain 18' West wall.  I had planned to make the walls 10' tall, so I trimmed the studs to 9' -7-1/2" and assembled everything on the shed floor with 3-1/2" screws.  It looked fine lying down, but once we stood it up it looked tall.  Really, really tall.

[Image: xB-J-vjx5INatLeFYutoxhPdLnw0h2Oiv4dsUMeu...06-h566-no]

By the end of the day I decided it was just too tall, so we took it down and I cut it down the studs down to 8', so the wall is actually 8'-4-1/2".  I'm happy with the decision to lower the walls to 8';, it fits better visually, and I'm doubly happy after I started crawling up and down ladders.  

After I had that wall plumbed and braced I built the opposite wall, which has both a 6' wide door way and window.  We raised and plumbed and braced it and then I built the straightforward South wall between the two walls, shown here still lying on the floor.  

[Image: RFL11PcfcTrbParj-eHUuGrwzX6gpp2kuWBgw3n9...35-h626-no]

I built the last wall with another 6' wide door and window and raised that into place.  

[Image: eLG0zHC38EGN6JxayEB-tlMtT6kzef2eSaAEk0G5...35-h626-no]

Then I added the overlapping top plates on the end walls, checked all four corners for plumb, then securely screwed the walls together and the bottom plates to the floor and joists below.  To get ready to set the trusses, I screwed a tie across the middle of the top plates to prevent the walls from moving outward as we lifted the trusses into place.  You can sort of see it in the above photo.  

I scheduled my friends Ken and Metod to come this morning to set the trusses, but being impatient and independent I decided to see if I could actually do it alone yesterday.  The answer is yes, but it's not nearly as easy.  To do the end trusses I screwed a 2 x 4 against the middle of the outer end walls, and shorter blocks at the ends, to prevent the truss from tipping over.  Lifting the truss up onto the walls wasn't all that hard, even alone.  With the truss upside down I put one end up over the wall then walked the other end up a ladder to get it over the opposite wall.  Then it was just a matter of rotating the truss upright with the aid of a 2 x 4.  Once it was upright I braced it with a long 2 x 4.

[Image: fEqrWphY34oP6mcyvYFG845mjWIzikdmbCh0j8UP...35-h626-no]


After getting it adjusted left/right and plumb I screwed the ends to the top plates and then toe nail screwed the studs to the top plate.  Next I added the first center truss, in the same manner.  When that was in place I added the short 2 x 4's that cantilever over the end trusses to form the gable overhang.  They are spaced 24" OC. You can see them on the right end of the shed in this photo.  

[Image: lOZl8-i1dwTBP19XpkxxKUWW84Viv2r09qy2d2iJ...35-h626-no]

I did the same thing on the left gable end but only got a couple of the overhang 2 x 4's installed this morning before my free help showed up.  There were 6 center trusses to be installed and the three of us got it done in a comfortable 90 minutes.  Ken has built at least one house as well as several other buildings and his advise was greatly appreciated.  He always chides me for using screws instead of nails, but I think he has a better appreciation of why that's my preference after witnessing a few of my gaffs that required me to reposition things.  After seeing that he suggested I not nail on the hurricane clips until I was sure everything was double checked OK!  

I screwed a short length of 2 x 4 between the center uprights inside the trusses to hold them together laterally as we went.  I had to make a few minor adjustments afterwards to get them really plumb, but for the most part it was a straight forward job - as long as you put the last 3 truss up vertical while you have room to rotate them into place.  I had realized that on my own but Ken reminded me of that requirement, to avoid having to lift at least two of them up over the walls, and suggested we stack them at one end and then pull them into position.  With three of us it was easy enough to do.  Alone, it would have been really tedious. 

[Image: xPTvZuYF6zK0C_fPr5iQNIYtB4ujkCCJ6Vht7kO8...35-h626-no]

It's starting to look like a building now.  Once I get the remaining gable end 2 x 4's and end rafters installed we'll be ready to do the sheathing.  Thanks for following along, and for your advise along the way.  

John
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#12
Looking up John.

Screws have no shear strength, thus why everyone in construction uses nails.
Nails bend, screws break
Steve

Missouri






 
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020








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#13
Despite all the trouble you may have had, it is looking great.  Looks like you are close to opening day.
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#14
I admire your willingness/ability to change plans midstream. I am far less willing to alter plans once I've started which often gets me into trouble.
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#15
(07-09-2018, 03:25 PM)Stwood_ Wrote: Looking up John.

Screws have no shear strength, thus why everyone in construction uses nails.
Nails bend, screws break

Thanks.  

Try hammering apart in shear a couple of 2 x 4's that have been screwed together with #9 or #10 construction screws.  Construction crews use nails because they are much faster and easier to install.  For a hack like me, screws are the better choice.  

Hurricane clips, hangers, etc., can be installed with nails or screws, as long as you use ones rated for the task.  

John
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#16
(07-09-2018, 03:41 PM)stav Wrote: Despite all the trouble you may have had, it is looking great.  Looks like you are close to opening day.

Oh, it wasn't that much extra work to take the wall down and shorten it to 8'.  Opening day may be a bit off yet.  Both my helpers did ask if I was planning a barn raising party when it was done.  But I still can't dance and neither of them plays the fiddle, although Ken does play the guitar - so he may get tapped for the entertainment when it happens.  

In order for opening day to happen at all I need to get the roofing and siding ordered.  Hopefully, I'll get that sorted out by the end of the week.  I'm hoping to buy it all at one place and get it delivered.  Otherwise, it'll be trailer time.  

Oh, those 110, 2 x 4's, as well as all the other lumber I bought, is gone except for a few pieces.  I think I ordered pretty well.  There's just a big stack of OSB in my neighbor's driveway now.  Of course, once I get the building up I'll have to start building wood racks inside it for it to serve its intended purpose, and that will require more 2 x 4's.  In that regard, does anyone have any clever adjustable rack designs?  I'm thinking 2 x 4's or 2 x 6's floor the truss with holes in them for iron pipe spanning maybe 3 or 4 ft per shelf.  I want adjustable shelves because my preference for storing wood is on edge so you can pull out each board w/o having to offload a stack to get to what always tends to be the one on the bottom.  Anyway, if you know of some simple adjustable rack ideas I'd appreciate you sharing it.  Thanks. 

John
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#17
(07-09-2018, 04:38 PM)jteneyck Wrote: Thanks.  

Try hammering apart in shear a couple of 2 x 4's that have been screwed together with #9 or #10 construction screws.  I have


Construction crews use nails because they are much faster and easier to install.  No I disagree.
Winkgrin


For a hack like me, screws are the better choice.  Ok
Winkgrin
Steve

Missouri






 
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020








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#18
I have to say that Stav is right on this one. Screws have not been tested for shear strength so nails meet code while screws don't! Your inspector may let you get away with it because it's a shed.
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#19
I helped a guy do an addition that was almost all screws. The inspector had no issue with it

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#20
(07-09-2018, 08:30 PM)cndamm Wrote: I have to say that Stav is right on this one. Screws have not been tested for shear strength so nails meet code while screws don't! Your inspector may let you get away with it because it's a shed.

You guys might want to read this:  Simpson Framing Screws

John
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