interior window trim buckling/warping
#31
You might consider adding drip edge.  It is mostly used for the edges of a roof over a gutter, but if you trim it so it fits just above the window it should add a level of flashing that is beyond what you have.

If you score the "roof" section you can break it off.  Insert it above the window, but below the thick flashing that is already there using caulk to hold it in place.  Run a bead of caulk in the opening, and then push the drip edge into the opening.  A couple of roofing nails will finish the job.  They are painted white so it should look pretty tidy.  About $7.00 for a 10 foot piece a Lowes.

[Image: Roof_Drip_Edge_Profile_393_DJFss.jpg]
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#32
(07-12-2018, 10:59 AM)Cooler Wrote: You might consider adding drip edge.  It is mostly used for the edges of a roof over a gutter, but if you trim it so it fits just above the window it should add a level of flashing that is beyond what you have.

If you score the "roof" section you can break it off.  Insert it above the window, but below the thick flashing that is already there using caulk to hold it in place.  Run a bead of caulk in the opening, and then push the drip edge into the opening.  A couple of roofing nails will finish the job.  They are painted white so it should look pretty tidy.  About $7.00 for a 10 foot piece a Lowes.

[Image: Roof_Drip_Edge_Profile_393_DJFss.jpg]

Interesting! Thanks for that tip. I'll consider it if I still have issues.
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#33
(07-10-2018, 09:56 PM)GreatDane Wrote:  I would remove the window and reinstall correctly. The thick edge I see above the head jamb is probably part from old window, definitely not flashing. After re-installing the window, trim with new stock. The warped trim will probably be impossible to install correctly. Check for mold under the trim. If superficial treat with Clorox.
mike
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#34
I also think what is seen at the top is the old window, not flashing.    If it is the old window that edge is where the water is entering.   At the very least it should be caulked between the old window top and the new window top.  Roly
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#35
(07-12-2018, 06:11 PM)Roly Wrote: I also think what is seen at the top is the old window, not flashing.    If it is the old window that edge is where the water is entering.   At the very least it should be caulked between the old window top and the new window top.  Roly

I truly appreciate the feedback and advice, so I hesitate to push back on things I don't know as much about, but here's a photo that I just took, and I'd like to clarify that we're talking about the same things.

You can see that I sealed the area with clear silicone (sloppily, but thoroughly), and here's how I understand the situation to be. As I may have mentioned, in retrospect I wish I'd have cleaned off the paint to better see what the scenario was before doing so.

I believe the arrow is the thick piece that you are talking about as being a part of the old window. To me, it's an extension of the siding (not sure if that qualifies as "flashing" or not). I drew a red line to indicate how I see the siding extending.

The dashed blue and orange lines are the potential heights of where the window frame extends up behind the siding. If it's the blue, it is potentially not a lot. But I'd still wonder whether that's the source of a leak or not.

I drew the orange as a potential level based on the white on the far right edge that extends that high. I'm thinking that's how high the window frame goes up. 

Perhaps you all know and agree with all of this, and nevertheless advise as you do. But in case there's a misunderstanding on the situation, I thought that I'd share how I see things.

Thanks again for all the help!


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#36
I think where you have put the clear silicone along the top (by the green arrow) will stop the problem for now.   Roly
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#37
(07-11-2018, 06:30 PM)Stwood_ Wrote: Like Roly, I don't understand the metal pieces (edited) on both sides of the window? Are they *under* the siding?
And like he says, maybe they are dumping water on top of the window?



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#38
(07-13-2018, 07:59 AM)Roly Wrote: I think where you have put the clear silicone along the top (by the green arrow) will stop the problem for now.   Roly

Thanks; hoping so. And I poured some water with food coloring against the window/in its sill, to see if it would come through, but it didn't (that I could tell). I've now removed the damaged wood, and here are the pics. It's indeed particle-board type, and clearly quite prone to absorption. Any suggestions on doing anything to the gap, where there's a bit of insulation under the window? Put more in there, or caulk, just in case? Let me know if you need better photos, with better lighting.

Hopefully I can find replacement borders. These look like they may have even come painted? Or perhaps I'll have to replace all.


Attached Files Image(s)
   
   
   
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#39
(07-19-2018, 02:54 PM)GreatDane Wrote: Thanks; hoping so. And I poured some water with food coloring against the window/in its sill, to see if it would come through, but it didn't (that I could tell). I've now removed the damaged wood, and here are the pics. It's indeed particle-board type, and clearly quite prone to absorption. Any suggestions on doing anything to the gap, where there's a bit of insulation under the window? Put more in there, or caulk, just in case? Let me know if you need better photos, with better lighting.

Hopefully I can find replacement borders. These look like they may have even come painted? Or perhaps I'll have to replace all.

Remember the FOR NOW part I said.   I would leave it for a while and see what a few hard rains do.   I would consider some flashing on the top for permanent repairs.  I would use a low expansion foam (window & door) for under the window IF the wood is solid but only after I was sure leak was corrected.   (might look at the other windows in the house)     Roly
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#40
(07-19-2018, 03:11 PM)Roly Wrote: Remember the FOR NOW part I said.   I would leave it for a while and see what a few hard rains do.   I would consider some flashing on the top for permanent repairs.  I would use a low expansion foam (window & door) for under the window IF the wood is solid but only after I was sure leak was corrected.   (might look at the other windows in the house)     Roly

Thanks, Roly; duly noted. I checked all others, and all are fine, fwiw. And the other side of this window has zero signs of issues, too. Truly a bit puzzling, as both at the top and bottom, both sides look identical. Is there any chance that this cheap particle board trim just absorbed moisture rather than direct water? In the mornings (on humid summer days) this window in particular has a lot of moisture (though on the outside!). I think because there's a register putting out cold air on the floor below.
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