brad nail vs. pocket hole? help please!

[ez-duzit]

Personally, I'd rabbet the inside edges of the sides, fit the back and bottom into the rabbet, glue and brad, or use a regular screws.

This.

https://i.pinimg.com/originals/5f/96/b7/...7570b7.jpg

[handi]

Pin nails will offer little holding power in this project, Pocket screws will work perfectly with 1-1/4” screws and the jig set to 3/4”

As far as plugging goes, it is not difficult. You can buy plugs made to fit the pocket holes, use a tenon cutting set, or cut sections of 3/8” dowel. 

I did a video recently showing these techniques for plugging Pocket screw holes:

[ez-duzit]

Pocket holes in edge grain makes for a weak construction.

[MstrCarpenter]

I prefer dadoes and rabbets all around; but given the size and intended use and with minimal equipment to work with I would just rabbet for the back on two sides and the top. then screw and glue 3/4 x 3/4 cleats onto the sides (top, bottom, and middle). After finishing screw through them up into the bottom of the top, shelf, and bottom. Then the back would be screwed on making everything rigid. For added strength just add a cleat under the front and back of the bottom and shelf. This way it can still be "knocked down" for transporting and/or storage. Should last at least a few generations.

[handi]

Pocket holes in edge grain makes for a weak construction.

Actually, I have not found that.

Mortise and tenon are best, Pocket screws a ways behind in holding power, but I would never define them as “weak”.

[lift mechanic]

The pocket hole is easy and quick to do and not a weak joint, I use glue also. On the inside of a cabinet door I prefer pocket holes. You can not match the grain the plug always is darker. I plug the hole with walnut dowels witch looks good as long as you space them evenly. I cut the dowel square and just barely knock off the edge on one end place a little glue in the pocket hole and tap it in. Then clamp the dowel down to close the gap between the hole and dowel. After dry I use a router and set the bit to leave 1/32" of the dowel proud of the surface. Then sand the dowel flush.

[ez-duzit]

Pocket hole joinery lends itself to amateur DIY type projects because it is easy for the untrained and unskilled, but it is inferior to traditional joinery and creates weak joints because of its use of screws in end or edge grain.

[handi]

Pocket hole joinery lends itself to amateur DIY type projects because it is easy for the untrained and unskilled, but it is inferior to traditional joinery and creates weak joints because of its use of screws in end or edge grain.

While both parts of this statement are essentially true, they certainly do not cover the full story.

“Pocket screws” have been around far longer than Kreg Jigs. Cutting an angled hole and driving a screw through it is a technique I have found on furniture pieces built 150 years ago. The technique is as old as  woodworking screws. 

Plywood lends itself to amateur DIY type projects too.

[ez-duzit]

...“Pocket screws” have been around far longer than Kreg Jigs...

So has holding things together with bailing wire.

[Gary G™]

The question shouldn’t be is pocket hole joinery less strong than M&T. Rather is it strong enough and effective and efficient?
I don’t use PHJ, because I like making M&Ts and I don’t have to profit from my woodwork.
If I did, I might shift gears and use it where appropriate.
For the back and bottom, I would use a rabbet and glue ; screws and/or brads would not be required.