Best way to paint patio furniture?
#11
I've just finished 4 Adirondack chairs and is considering painting them with a semi-gloss latex paint using an airless sprayer. In my experience, only paint holds up to the Colorado sun. Since they will be painted, I used pine to build them. But what is the best primer to use? I could use a regular exterior latex primer but I have had bad experiences with both Valspar and Kilz primers, not leaving a smooth surface. I have an HVLP spray gun so I could use something else as long as it flows well? The airless sprayer is a pain, you get paint everywhere and it wastes a lot of paint but it beats using a brush. Is there a better way?

Mats
Mats
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#12
personally id use sherwin williams A100 primer
https://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeown...ood-primer

and topcoat sherwin williams A100.
https://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeown...ylic-latex

ive sprayed latex with a devilbiss finishline with a 2.2 tip and had good results. tips smaller just wont cut it- leaves about a 15 grit finish.
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#13
(07-23-2018, 09:52 AM)tomsteve Wrote: personally id use sherwin williams A100 primer
https://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeown...ood-primer

and topcoat sherwin williams A100.
https://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeown...ylic-latex

ive sprayed latex with a devilbiss finishline with a 2.2 tip and had good results. tips smaller just wont cut it- leaves about a 15 grit finish.

I've tried using a large tip on the HVLP for latex paint and decided that it's too frustrating for me, just couldn't get there with my small compressor. For the topcoat, I am considering the Sherwin-Williams Emerald Urethane Enamel since it's available in semi-gloss. It works well using the airless sprayer. I just got a 315 tip for the sprayer, hoping to keep the fan at 6 inches.
Mats
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#14
I've had very little difficulty with the Zinser brand of exterior latex-enamel primer. Used a 4-stage turbine HVLP with a 2mm (I think, might have been 2.2mm) and a splash of Floetrol mixed in. Sprayed the Adirondack chair parts prior to assembly. Came out reasonably smooth but hit everything with some p320 grit sanding pads. Then assemble, do any hole filling with a latex patch compound. Patches get a quick touch of primer from foam brush. Then when assembled, spray with the appropriately colored top coat.

No issues after 2 years on deck with full western exposure to elements. Plenty of sun on that deck.
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
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#15
I would use a marine finish.  They have excellent UV resistance and they are flexible enough to withstand expansion can contraction cycles.

http://www.pettitpaint.com/
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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#16
(07-23-2018, 10:07 AM)woodmats Wrote: I've tried using a large tip on the HVLP for latex paint and decided that it's too frustrating for me, just couldn't get there with my small compressor. For the topcoat, I am considering the Sherwin-Williams Emerald Urethane Enamel since it's available in semi-gloss. It works well using the airless sprayer. I just got a 315 tip for the sprayer, hoping to keep the fan at 6 inches.

small compressors will make it a nighmare.
in my opinion, all of the SW paints are exceptional.
personally on those chairs id use a satin. semi gloss and gloss show scratches real good. satin hides scratches.
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#17
(07-24-2018, 04:43 AM)tomsteve Wrote: small compressors will make it a nighmare.
in my opinion, all of the SW paints are exceptional.
personally on those chairs id use a satin. semi gloss and gloss show scratches real good. satin hides scratches.

You are right about the compressor and I don't do enough work to justify a larger unit or a cyclone. The airless sprayer works pretty good and I hope that the narrower spray pattern tip will give me a little better control. I tried to use the sprayer outside but just a small breeze carries paint everywhere so it will be in the basement with my makeshift spray booth.
I'm partial to semi-gloss because it is easier to clean than satin or flat and the S-W Emerald Urethane gives you a real nice surface.
Mats
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#18
(07-23-2018, 09:13 AM)woodmats Wrote: I've just finished 4 Adirondack chairs and is considering painting them with a semi-gloss latex paint using an airless sprayer. In my experience, only paint holds up to the Colorado sun. Since they will be painted, I used pine to build them. But what is the best primer to use? I could use a regular exterior latex primer but I have had bad experiences with both Valspar and Kilz primers, not leaving a smooth surface. I have an HVLP spray gun so I could use something else as long as it flows well? The airless sprayer is a pain, you get paint everywhere and it wastes a lot of paint but it beats using a brush. Is there a better way?

Mats

So I used the airless sprayer with a 315 tip to prime the chairs and it worked quite well. It says in the Graco instructions for these tips that you need at least the .015 tip opening to paint latex paint and I found previously that a 413 tip did not work well. This tip did not clog once while priming 4 chairs. I used Zinser 123 Bulls Eye primer which is quite thick compared to other primers I used. 

The question is what is the best way to paint something like the Adirondack chairs with so many angles, top and bottom. Is it best to paint them in 2 steps so you don't have to turn them upside down when the paint is wet?

Mats
Mats
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#19
I've done 8 Adirondack chairs and have painted 6 of them. Just clear coat on 2.

I used a good quality latex, thinned the paint to use as a stain instead- brush it on and wipe off to the level of color I want.  I like the antiqued look. Ive never used primer. The paint will soak in and adhere right into the pine.
If you like a solid color and have stained wood a primer is fine.
A brush will push the paint into the surface better than spraying and in my opinion, last longer.

I do a final 2-4 coats of  water based clear coat poly and have yet to have any problems. My test chair is still sitting outside in the weather now about 4 years.   It goes better with latex and clear coat than just clear coat.

 I install 1/4" thick rubber pads under the feet to help keep them dry-er.




 The test chair- still looks good- maybe 4 years now.
[Image: XNj4BxF.jpg]




 One custom made in storage, awaiting it's owner. Stained with green latex and 3 clear coats.
 It now resides at Medina Lake overlooking the water.

[Image: 9bjF2R0.jpg]
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#20
(08-06-2018, 02:55 PM)daddo Wrote: I've done 8 Adirondack chairs and have painted 6 of them. Just clear coat on 2.

I used a good quality latex, thinned the paint to use as a stain instead- brush it on and wipe off to the level of color I want.  I like the antiqued look. Ive never used primer. The paint will soak in and adhere right into the pine.
If you like a solid color and have stained wood a primer is fine.
A brush will push the paint into the surface better than spraying and in my opinion, last longer.

I do a final 2-4 coats of  water based clear coat poly and have yet to have any problems. My test chair is still sitting outside in the weather now about 4 years.   It goes better with latex and clear coat than just clear coat.

 I install 1/4" thick rubber pads under the feet to help keep them dry-er.


Daddo, when you painted them, did you paint top and bottom at the same time? I put mine on a lazy susan and painted the whole thing when I primed them but it was messy to move one out of the way and load the next. I was thinking that I might split the finish coat into 2 separate events and let them dry to the touch in between.

Mats
Mats
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