Rail and stile router bit set?

[Duane N]

https://smile.amazon.com/Freud-Premier-A...router+bit


Would this 3 piece set be sufficient or are there better alternatives available?  I'm planning on starting my kitchen cabinet project for my home soon and I'm gathering up some tools needed for this project and future projects.  I own a 2 1/4 hp router....will it do the job for these types of bits or do I need to invest in a better router?

Thanks in advance and pardon my ignorance on this subject....but I only want to do this once.

[greatscott]

https://smile.amazon.com/Freud-Premier-A...router+bit


Would this 3 piece set be sufficient or are there better alternatives available?  I'm planning on starting my kitchen cabinet project for my home soon and I'm gathering up some tools needed for this project and future projects.  I own a 2 1/4 hp router....will it do the job for these types of bits or do I need to invest in a better router?

Thanks in advance and pardon my ignorance on this subject....but I only want to do this once.

I used that same set years ago from Freud to make my first set of kitchen cabinets.  Worked fine with a 2 1/4 HP router (I was using a Porter Cable).  My only recommendation is to take several (at least 3) incremental passes with the raised panel bit (I learned that the hard way).  Good luck!

[Stwood_]

Yes, thats a good set. I no longer have that one now.
I've gone almost 100% Whiteside these last few years, and use a shaper for the raised panels.

As above, make 3-4 passes with the panel bit and you'll be fine.

[Duane N]

Thanks for the feedback.  I usually make raised panels on my table saw but that's just one door and I'm done but there are going to be a few kitchen cabinet doors on this project so I want consistent results.

[FS7]

Thanks for the feedback.  I usually make raised panels on my table saw but that's just one door and I'm done but there are going to be a few kitchen cabinet doors on this project so I want consistent results.

Years ago I bought some Milwaukee router bits on clearance from Amazon. I have two or three large diameter raised panel bits that I got for ten bucks each or less. They look pretty similar to the Freud set.

I have an MLCS set with an undercutter, which I don't like. Your stock needs to be completely dead flat and your feeding needs to be perfect. When you're cutting both sides at once any bowing, warping, or slip while feeding will mar the work. It's doable and produces a panel that's flush front and back with the door, which is nice, but it's not necessarily practical.

With the large bits, take multiple passes at a slightly slower speed (that giant bit spinning at a high speed is among the most frightening things I experience in the shop). The worst that can happen is that at the edges you'll have a slight lip, and that can be fixed easily.

[rwe2156]

Freud bits are fine.  Personally, I use either Whiteside or CMT.  I don't think the Freuds last as long.

Here's a "pro hint" that will save you some time:  pre-cut the raised panels on your tablesaw leaving just enough material to do one pass, then a light finish pass to final profile.  Otherwise, you have to run 3 or 4 passes through the router. Turn the speed down all the way and go slow.  Use a feather board to keep the panel face flat against the table.  By all means, use push sticks.  I like to wear those rubber coated gloves for extra grip.

Another "pro hint": don't route the groove & profile in one pass.  Set your fence to take about 90% of the depth, then do a final finish pass.  If there is still some tear out in the groove, rip a 16th off the routed side and take another final light pass using a climb cut.  Be sure router on highest speed and go slow. This will improve the results, particularly if your working with oak or any grainy, hard wood the grain direction will work against you but you can help yourself by pre-selecting the face side to be with the direction of cut so any tear out will be on the back.   Leave your stiles 1/4 to 1/2" wide until you have the profile routed satisfactorily. When everything looks copacetic, rip to final width.

Routing the profile on the rail ends is the most difficult. You have to use a backer board. One end will be with the square edge into the cut, the other with the profiled edge. Therefore, you need two backerboards: 1 square, and one with a profile to match the groove set. You'll understand what I'm talking about when you do it. I use the cheap plastic push blocks screwed onto the backer board as a push block rather than a coping sled. Be sure the push block is perfectly square to the fence. If you don't do this you will not get optimal results.

Lastly, test pieces. Have plenty of spare test pieces for set up. I usually cut 2 extra stiles about 30" long. Be sure you follow them through the thickness planer so they are the same thickness as the rest of your stock.

You might want to take a look at raised panel bits with a back cutter.  Matter of taste, but IMO think rp's look better if they don't protrude as much.


Hope this helps!

[BloomingtonMike]

Freud bits are fine.  Personally, I use either Whiteside or CMT.  I don't think the Freuds last as long.

Here's a "pro hint" that will save you some time:  pre-cut the raised panels on your tablesaw leaving just enough material to do one pass, then a light finish pass to final profile.  Otherwise, you have to run 3 or 4 passes through the router. Turn the speed down all the way and go slow.  Use a feather board to keep the panel face flat against the table.  By all means, use push sticks.  I like to wear those rubber coated gloves for extra grip.

Another "pro hint": don't route the groove & profile in one pass.  Set your fence to take about 90% of the depth, then do a final finish pass.  If there is still some tear out in the groove, rip a 16th off the routed side and take another final light pass using a climb cut.  Be sure router on highest speed and go slow. This will improve the results, particularly if your working with oak or any grainy, hard wood the grain direction will work against you but you can help yourself by pre-selecting the face side to be with the direction of cut so any tear out will be on the back.   Leave your stiles 1/4 to 1/2" wide until you have the profile routed satisfactorily. When everything looks copacetic, rip to final width.

Routing the profile on the rail ends is the most difficult.  You have to use a backer board.  One end will be with the square edge into the cut,  the other with the profiled edge. Therefore, you need two backerboards: 1 square, and one with a profile to match the groove set.  You'll understand what I'm talking about when you do it. I use the cheap plastic push blocks screwed onto the backer board as a push block rather than a coping sled.  Be sure the push block is perfectly square to the fence.  If you don't do this you will not get optimal results.

Lastly, test pieces.  Have plenty of spare test pieces for set up.  I usually cut 2 extra stiles about 30" long.  Be sure you follow them through the thickness planer so they are the same thickness as the rest of your stock.

You might want to take a look at raised panel bits with a back cutter.  Matter of taste, but IMO think rp's look better if they don't protrude as much.


Hope this helps!

I personally avoid wearing gloves around spinning anything (bits blades lathes etc). You cannot overcome the machines and when it pulls in your glove your hand will go into it to. No long sleeves either or jewelry.

[Duane N]

Thank you for the advice.  I'm sure my eyes will open wide when that large router bit is spinning in the router table.  One thing I've learned is to make a lot of test cuts using the same material I'm working with.  I may use pine to set the cuts up but will also run some Oak pieces to make sure they look fine before doing the real pieces.

[FrankAtl]

+1 on what Mike said. No gloves around spinning anything.

[rwe2156]

I sometimes use rubber dipped gloves because they increase my grip, which prevents a hand slipping, which INCREASES safety. The fit very tightly and never get close enough to anything spinning.

That being said, if you read my post again, I said I used them doing the panels. No way to get into the bit unless you do something real dumb. I said use push blocks and feather boards on the rails and stiles.

There is nothing wrong with gloves is you keep your hands where they are supposed to be.

And yes, Duane, the first time you use that raised panel bit can be a bit unnerving. Keep the router speed on low, go slow, and follow the tip I gave you.