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08-27-2018, 01:10 PM
With the logs cut and the Timber Mill working, I had the 3/4 inch 105 band saw blade humming and things were going smoothly. I had run a dozen logs across the timber mill getting the two 90 degree sides in place for safety and was then running them by the fence, cutting 1" thick planks.. tossing the bark sides and the skimpy pieces.
I was working in short blocks of time, since I can't stand for long and I haven't figured out how to work a Jet Band Saw with the riser block from a stool or chair yet.
 Nearing the end of this first block of logs, almost done and the blade began to bind. I only had the one 3/4" resaw blade, and I'd have to step down to the 1/2 ones. Hmmm? Sharpening?
I watched a couple YouTube vids.
There are as many ways to do this as there are folks out there making vids. I ended up taking the slower, safer way, and used the file.
Amazingly, I could do THAT on my shop stool, and an hour later, I fired up the air cleaner, dust collector, and the band saw, and Wow... it actually worked.
WHAT methods do those of you who sharpen your own use?
I was able to run the last three 18 inch sections thru the band saw and I'm done for a day or two. Then I'll bring in another 12 to 18 logs and get 'er running again. I pay for my fun, but won't give it up until I have no choice.
I'll take some pics tomorrow. Found some nice spalted walnut, and a few small sections of burl. Whoo Hoo.
Jim in Okie
You can tell a lot about the character of a man -
By the way he treats those who can do nothing for him.
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I sharpen mine with a diamond chainsaw burr chucked up in my Dremel.
https://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Tools-Dia...%2C+4+Pack
Blade is 131.5 inches and 3 TPI. It takes about 10 minutes.
My method is to place the burr in the deepest part of the gullet and follow it around the underside of the tooth. Sharpening the underside of each tooth seems to work fine for me. I see others on YouTube do the opposite and sharpen the top of each tooth but I've not tried that. Likely either way works fine.
Mike
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(08-27-2018, 01:29 PM)Ohio Mike Wrote: I sharpen mine with a diamond chainsaw burr chucked up in my Dremel.
https://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Tools-Dia...%2C+4+Pack
Blade is 131.5 inches and 3 TPI. It takes about 10 minutes.
My method is to place the burr in the deepest part of the gullet and follow it around the underside of the tooth. Sharpening the underside of each tooth seems to work fine for me. I see others on YouTube do the opposite and sharpen the top of each tooth but I've not tried that. Likely either way works fine.
Mike
Mike,
Do you have a favorite blade for resaw?
Jim in Okie
You can tell a lot about the character of a man -
By the way he treats those who can do nothing for him.
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08-27-2018, 01:37 PM
(This post was last modified: 09-03-2018, 02:42 PM by Ohio Mike.)
(08-27-2018, 01:32 PM)BrokenOlMarine Wrote: Mike,
Do you have a favorite blade for resaw?
Yes, it's a 3 TPI hook tooth x 1/2 inch wide .025 thick, "FLEXBACK" blade by Lenox. They cost around $15 each and I get 4 or 5 sharpenings out of each blade before enough metal has been removed to alter the set of the teeth too much.
I get mine at WOODCRAFTBANDS (dot) com They weld any length to order.
EDIT: Forgot to mention that WOODCRAFTBANDS of North Carolina sourced my orders for Lenox Flexback blades from SPECTRUMSUPPLY of Cleveland, OH. So on my most recent order, I went straight to SPECTRUMSUPPLY.COM to cut out the middleman. The price was about the same.
Mike
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Thanks, saved the reference
Jim in Okie
You can tell a lot about the character of a man -
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Sounds like your Jet saw is a cast iron, Delta clone, yes? If so, you will likely get better results with a 1/2" x 3 tpi blade like Mike is using. 14" cast iron saws can't put much tension on a blade. On my Delta I measure about 12K psi on a 1/2" blade with an Iturra spring on it. 18K is the minimum recommended by most blade manufacturers; 25K being more typical. So with a 3/4" blade you are down to 9K psi. Whatever works for you is fine, but a narrower blade might work better.
John
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I'll step down to the 1/2" blade before I go to the next batch. Here is the saw...
Here is a pic of the scraps cut off from the Timber Mill and the Planking.
and here is the result of the work from the last few days, stacked and drying.
The wood is pretty much dry after four years or so waiting, so I didn't feel the need to sticker. Note the chalk marking each log so I know what goes with what.
Here is a peek at the shop....
Shop wheels...
I can sit in the chair at the work table or the work bench and get a lot done, it really extends my work time in the shop.
Jim in Okie
You can tell a lot about the character of a man -
By the way he treats those who can do nothing for him.
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(08-27-2018, 01:10 PM)BrokenOlMarine Wrote: With the logs cut and the Timber Mill working, I had the 3/4 inch 105 band saw blade humming and things were going smoothly. I had run a dozen logs across the timber mill getting the two 90 degree sides in place for safety and was then running them by the fence, cutting 1" thick planks.. tossing the bark sides and the skimpy pieces.
I was working in short blocks of time, since I can't stand for long and I haven't figured out how to work a Jet Band Saw with the riser block from a stool or chair yet.
Nearing the end of this first block of logs, almost done and the blade began to bind. I only had the one 3/4" resaw blade, and I'd have to step down to the 1/2 ones. Hmmm? Sharpening?
I watched a couple YouTube vids.
There are as many ways to do this as there are folks out there making vids. I ended up taking the slower, safer way, and used the file.
Amazingly, I could do THAT on my shop stool, and an hour later, I fired up the air cleaner, dust collector, and the band saw, and Wow... it actually worked.
WHAT methods do those of you who sharpen your own use?
I was able to run the last three 18 inch sections thru the band saw and I'm done for a day or two. Then I'll bring in another 12 to 18 logs and get 'er running again. I pay for my fun, but won't give it up until I have no choice.
I'll take some pics tomorrow. Found some nice spalted walnut, and a few small sections of burl. Whoo Hoo.
I use a Dremel with a cylindrical stone made for chain saw sharpening. I did try the Dremel with a diamond burr but the burr flew off the mandrel after about 3 or 4 teeth. Probably a bad diamond burr or the way it was attached to the mandrel. In any case I will stay with the original Dremel stones, they have worked well for many years.
mike
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(08-27-2018, 02:20 PM)jteneyck Wrote: Sounds like your Jet saw is a cast iron, Delta clone, yes? If so, you will likely get better results with a 1/2" x 3 tpi blade like Mike is using. 14" cast iron saws can't put much tension on a blade. On my Delta I measure about 12K psi on a 1/2" blade with an Iturra spring on it. 18K is the minimum recommended by most blade manufacturers; 25K being more typical. So with a 3/4" blade you are down to 9K psi. Whatever works for you is fine, but a narrower blade might work better.
John
I took the 3/4 off and while I had the table off, polished and waxed it. I detailed the saw, and then installed the new 1/2" blade and tuned it. We should be ready to rock in a day or two after some rest. I have the respirator coming, I'll wait for that to arrive.
NOT breathing walnut dust would be a plus.
Jim in Okie
You can tell a lot about the character of a man -
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(08-27-2018, 01:29 PM)Ohio Mike Wrote: My method is to place the burr in the deepest part of the gullet and follow it around the underside of the tooth. Sharpening the underside of each tooth seems to work fine for me. I see others on YouTube do the opposite and sharpen the top of each tooth but I've not tried that. Likely either way works fine.
Mike I sharpen mine as you do, on the underside of the tooth. I'm concerned about sharpening the top as I believe there is too much chance of unevenly reducing the tooth height. It does bother me, however, that the tooth tops bevel the wrong way from the factory (at least mine do). But, they seem to cut OK. So, I'll not change that.
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