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Motors and GFCI receptacles don't always get along. That's why non-GFCI receptacles are allowed for clothes washers in laundry rooms and garbage disposers and dish washers don't have to be on GFCI protected circuits even with their proximity to water sources. Put in a standard receptacle.
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(09-01-2018, 02:39 PM)TGW Wrote: I would still run a Megger test on the windings. Just mo rule out the worst case scenario.
It is fairly common to find old grinders that have been overloaded too many times so the insulation has degraded. The only way of fixing it is to rewind the entire motor...... and it isn't exactly easy. I am struggling with a rewind at the moment. Trying to learn.......... but I cannot afford to pay anyone else for doing it and I cannot afford a new motor....... so I keep struggling.
If I had the appropriate equipment, I reckon I could. However, the windings appear clean and bright.
(09-01-2018, 03:28 PM)Roly Wrote: Find the correct screwdriver for those screws or it you can get a Dremel with a cut off wheel to cut a slot in the screw head for a regular flat blade screwdriver. Places like Harbor Freight has kits for the tamper proof screws. Roly
They are down in a 1/4 recess. I have a tamper proof bit kit. Don't think it will help.
(09-01-2018, 04:29 PM)Snipe Hunter Wrote: Motors and GFCI receptacles don't always get along. That's why non-GFCI receptacles are allowed for clothes washers in laundry rooms and garbage disposers and dish washers don't have to be on GFCI protected circuits even with their proximity to water sources. Put in a standard receptacle.
With the power strip plugged in, any power tool trips the GFCI. Haven't tried a pure resistive load yet. It is no longer just a grinder problem.
Rocket Science is more fun when you actually have rockets.
"The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government." -- Patrick Henry
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At this point, I'd use a plain (cheap) power strip in its place, and if it still works for non-inductive loads, save that unit for those. I have a cheap power strip for my grinding center, with high- and low-speed grinders and an old Craftsman motor with two wire wheels on arbors, plus some work lights, plugged into a GFCI receptacle. Being induction motors and incandescent lights, no surge protection is needed.
But it sounds like the MOVs or coil/cap bits are shot and possibly not providing surge protection anyway, and if in doubt, I wouldn't trust it for expensive loads that need it anyway.
Tom
“This place smells like that odd combination of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet"
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Well, crisis averted. I was able to get out the anti-tamper screws. I stripped out the electronics. I did see a scorch mark inside the case, though I could not attribute it to a specific electric component. Interestingly, the power strip still worked on a non-GFCI circuit. I like this strip as I use it for my tool battery chargers. Considering the issues with certain chargers releasing smoke, I like to turn on only the one I need for only as long as needed.
Took about 45 minutes, but I was watching paint dry anyway.
Rocket Science is more fun when you actually have rockets.
"The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government." -- Patrick Henry
