Quest machine found! 12" Clement jointer
#21
Sorry.  Totally Enclosed Non-Ventilated.  But that looks sort of like a fan shroud, making it Totally Enclosed Fan Cooled if it is.  Easy enough to find out once it's running, or if you pop the cover off.

To see what voltage it's configured for, open the junction box on the motor and inspect the connections. 

If each power lead coming in connects to two motor leads, and there are also three motor leads that only connect to each other and nothing else, it's configured for 240V power.

If each incoming power lead only connects to one motor lead, and there are also three sets of two motor leads that only connect to each other and nothing else, it's configured for 480V power.

That's all assuming it has the oh so common 9-lead connection arrangement.  If you connect it to power and it starts very weakly on 240V power, then it's probably connected internally for 480V.  It'll theoretically have only 1/4 the torque at all points on its curve.  

But it's best to just put eyeballs on the motor lead connections and see what's going on in there.
Winkgrin
Tom

“This place smells like that odd combination of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet"
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#22
Makes sense to me. I just wired up my 3ph planer motor and it's done as you described for 220V.
Semper fi,
Brad

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#23
You were right; it's wired for 220V. I've found no wiring diagram, so I got lucky! It looks like fairly recent work; the connections are helf together with electrician's tape that seems to not be ancient and the wire running through the armored conduit is solid core. 10AWG, I think.

I hooked it up to my VFD and it fires right up, silently and smoothly. The soft start on the VFD ramps it up to speed over the course of a few seconds and brakes it when powered down.

I still intend on opening it and replacing the bearings; I have to clue about their age and I want to paint the motor.

https://youtu.be/hIxLy8v5pak


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Semper fi,
Brad

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#24
I thought, from the early photos, that it might have gone underwater, but from the look of the underside of the motor, I no longer think so as it's pristine in there.  When you crack the motor open you should know for sure.  But the rest should clean up well. 

The minor pitting on that big sheave won't affect anything, especially since it's a jointer, not some continuous running machine in a factory or farm or some such.  Maybe polish it up with a wire wheel and paint it.  Just be careful getting it off, as it's been on there a long while, and that bushing may not want to let go.  The threaded extraction holes, assuming it has them, might need a bottom tap to clean them out.

I'd probably cut the end off that shaft and put a mesh assembly over the fan intake, too.    

Glad it's working, though.  It's always a crap shoot with old motors.  I like the video, too.  
Cool
Tom

“This place smells like that odd combination of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet"
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#25
The seller said he bought it from a guy that stored it in an open shed in Ohio for a decade. That would explain all the rust. The beds are pitted, but not badly enough to be of concern. Prior to that it cam from a window and sash shop and saw lots of use. It has "extra" holes drilled in the infeed table for reasons unknown to me.

I'm gonna take a needle scaler to the jointer and paint it Rustoleum Hammered Black. I'll strip the motor with sandpaper and do the same. The sheave will be removed, cleaned up, and painted to match. Or maybe I'll paint it red, along with the hand wheels and the adjustment knobs.

The mesh screen--Is that to prevent wood chips from fouling the fan?
Semper fi,
Brad

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#26
(09-21-2018, 08:10 AM)®smpr_fi_mac® Wrote: The mesh screen--Is that to prevent wood chips from fouling the fan?

Yes.  Every TEFC motor has a mesh or screen of some sort, usually just cast as part of the cover or stamped steel with holes, but you need something to let air in and keep fingers and chips out.  Or keep the extended shaft and fix or replace that tubular cover.  Or make a new one that curves downward, or is capped on the end with a big opening in the bottom, so chips can't get in.  You likely won't run it long and hard enough in a hobby shop that the fan will need to do much, but it's there, so might as well allow it to flow some air.  
Laugh
Tom

“This place smells like that odd combination of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet"
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#27
Call Mark over to measure the bed and make sure it's not 0.003" out


Nice score
Aliens haven't contacted Earth because there's no sign of intelligence here
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#28
Is there a joke here that I'm missing?
Semper fi,
Brad

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#29
(09-21-2018, 03:26 PM)®smpr_fi_mac® Wrote: Is there a joke here that I'm missing?

Yep. Gary can fill you in...
Winkgrin
Laugh



On your shaft cover, my 3ph convertor has a double shaft, one of them exposed. I used a piece of green 4" pvc sewer pipe to cover it. The pipe was a snug fit on the casting, then a wooden plug in the end of the pipe filled the hole. Bored some holes in the plug for air flow.
Steve

Mo.



I miss the days of using my dinghy with a girlfriend too. Zack Butler-4/18/24


 
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020








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#30
(09-21-2018, 03:26 PM)®smpr_fi_mac® Wrote: Is there a joke here that I'm missing?

A member who used to participate here bought some big iron then whined that he could fit a 0.003' feeler gauge under a straight edge he laid on the beds. It was pretty funny at the time and one of the Woodnet Hall of Fame moments. He migrated to cameras and more expensive hobbies.
Aliens haven't contacted Earth because there's no sign of intelligence here
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