Quest machine found! 12" Clement jointer
#31
He complained about 3 thousandths?

Wow.

I got the motor apart. Apparently it's not TEFC; I don't know what you call this version of the motor.

Unscrewing the three bolts from the disc on the end disconnects the sheaves from the big "cap". Using two of those bolts, the sheave is pressed off the cap. The a bearing puller pulls the cap off the shaft, and then the sheave slides off.

Four rods with acorn nuts on each end hold the fan end on.

Two set screws secure the fan to the shaft. The fan came off with very little force from the puller. The backside of it is drilled in too many places as the operator worked to balance it. Said person drilled through in several places.

There's a lot of dust in it. I'll pull the bearings and order new ones this week. I'll also start painting it.


https://youtu.be/g6QwvlmAetk
Semper fi,
Brad

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#32
(09-21-2018, 05:08 PM)Gary™ Wrote: A member who used to participate here bought some big iron then whined that he could fit a 0.003' feeler gauge under a straight edge he laid on the beds.  It was pretty funny at the time and one of the Woodnet Hall of Fame moments.   He migrated to cameras and more expensive hobbies.

While I understand why people would laugh 3 thou on jointer beds from the higher end old iron companies would have been a bad day.  Even middle to lower level companies like Northfield are almost always tighter than .003" unless they have been abused or are sagging.
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#33
(09-21-2018, 05:08 PM)Gary™ Wrote: A member who used to participate here bought some big iron then whined that he could fit a 0.003' feeler gauge under a straight edge he laid on the beds.  It was pretty funny at the time and one of the Woodnet Hall of Fame moments.   He migrated to cameras and more expensive hobbies.

Marzlduf...duff, something like that. And he was a mod
Steve

Mo.



I miss the days of using my dinghy with a girlfriend too. Zack Butler-4/18/24


 
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
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#34
TD--What kind of motor is this classified as? The sheave side is sealed but the opposite end is open to the atmosphere under the shroud. The motor is full of dust that I'll blow out, of course, but it'll eventually fill up again.
Semper fi,
Brad

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#35
Wow I love these old beasts! Look at the styling...what is that a cabriole leg on a JOINTER?! Awesome stuff!
Alex
Final Assembly Quality Inspector for the manufacture of custom vintage sport biplanes
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#36
It's not a cabriole, it's just from a time when real tools had curves!


Laugh

TD--

Can I safely rely on the VFD as protection for this motor?  If possible I'd like to get rid of the electrical box on the machine and just plug the motor directly into the outlet fed by the VFD.
Semper fi,
Brad

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#37
(09-24-2018, 12:06 PM)®smpr_fi_mac® Wrote: It's not a cabriole, it's just from a time when real tools had curves!


Laugh

TD--

Can I safely rely on the VFD as protection for this motor?  If possible I'd like to get rid of the electrical box on the machine and just plug the motor directly into the outlet fed by the VFD.

That is exactly what you HAVE to do.  You should NOT have a disconnect between the motor and VFD, if the VFD loses connection with the motor is can fry the VFD.  You can wire E-stops via the low voltage accessory inputs on the VFD and this is what I recommend, trying to hit the small off button on a VFD in an emergency could be a problem.
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#38
(09-23-2018, 04:08 PM)®smpr_fi_mac® Wrote: TD--What kind of motor is this classified as?  The sheave side is sealed but the opposite end is open to the atmosphere under the shroud.  The motor is full of dust that I'll blow out, of course, but it'll eventually fill up again.

It doesn't really fit any classification for frame type that I'm aware of.  It's possible it's a Frankenmotor, though, with mismatched end bells.

Delta, and presumably some others, have used so-called TEFC motors that weren't really totally-enclosed, though they were externally fan cooled.  They had some dust collector motors made like that.  You wouldn't know it until the fan was removed, and voila - there were the exposed windings.  But with an old motor like that, anything is possible I suppose.  I've just never seen one quite like that.

(09-24-2018, 12:28 PM)Huxleywood Wrote: That is exactly what you HAVE to do.  You should NOT have a disconnect between the motor and VFD, if the VFD loses connection with the motor is can fry the VFD.  You can wire E-stops via the low voltage accessory inputs on the VFD and this is what I recommend, trying to hit the small off button on a VFD in an emergency could be a problem.

What he said.  If you want big push buttons, wire a remote station using the programmable inputs.  An E-stop at the very least is good to have.

You can set the maximum current for a motor through the VFD set-up screens.
Tom

“This place smells like that odd combination of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet"
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#39
Thanks, gents.

Progress was made this last weekend.  Motor is disassembled and the main shell and sheave end are painted.  The other end, shroud, and fan need paint.  New motor bearings were ordered today.  The base and wedges are about halfway painted.

Question on the bearings:  They're marked 88504, by New Departures.  It's a sealed bearing, yet there was grease around both of them.  Neither was "crunchy", so I don't think they've failed.  Any thoughts on why they had grease around them?  Should I grease them before reassembly?

We're expecting rain all this week, so I doubt I'll get anything done before the weekend.  I'm *hoping* to finish painting it this weekend so I can go rent a hoist and move it into my garage.


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Semper fi,
Brad

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#40
Those sound like so-called "felt seal" type bearings (old school), with the inner race wider than the outer race.  If they're double-sealed, then there's no reason to put any grease on the outside.
Tom

“This place smells like that odd combination of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet"
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