I dunno why I waited four years to do this, but another member at OWWM finally motivated me to toss together a chute from scrap 1/2" and 3/4" ply. Now that I know it works I'll fill in the rough seams and screw holes, round over the corners, and paint it when I get around to repainting the planer. I tested it last night. Chips gather under the port, so I'll wait to see how high they pile up and install a ramp made of 1/4" ply inside. No hardware needed to secure it; the adjustment nut clearance holes on top, along with the shape up front hold it firmly against the machine. If you have a 100 and no chute, build one of these. It's very quick, easy, and works great.
The planer and (soon to be running jointer) are 3ph, on 220V. The DC is 1ph, on 110V. I could *probably* rig something to start both with one switch. But then I'd have to add in my table saw, which is 1ph, 220V. The shop is small enough, and my production is slow enough, that the few steps needed are worth the hassle.
I am considering, though, a remote control start for the DC.
(10-11-2018, 01:07 PM)fredhargis Wrote: Looks good. Should solve your chips being thrown all over the place.
I was using a chute that I had screwed to a board that held it in place, but I had to tape the fixture on the hose to it to make it stay. Was a huge PITA. It would often come loose during use, making a mess. This solves that problem!
(10-11-2018, 12:54 PM)®smpr_fi_mac® Wrote: I am considering, though, a remote control start for the DC.
That would certainly help. I know a shop where the dust collection, the tablesaw, etc. are all individually controlled. The result is people are simply too lazy to walk around the shop to turn on the DC and they end up using a machine a lot of the time without DC even though it is an industrial DC. Especially when they also have to get the chute opening properly set.
I don't know if there is a solution that exists for powering on a mix of 220v and 110v machines at the same time, though.
There is a solution for differing voltage; I'd need a stepdown (or whatever it's called) to lower the voltage. Much like what works on your heat pump--a module steps the voltage down to 12/24/whatever the control board needs to run.
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