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Watch wipe on poly seems thick
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10-27-2018, 02:55 AM
I got a new can of Watco wipe on poly and it is just as thick as the stuff made to brush on. I put some on to try and it doesn’t level out well at all, it’s thick and it dries too fast.
I don’t mind the fast drying, but I don’t like the streaks and ridges.
So, is there a way to thin it? Looking at the instructions there’s a warning not to thin it as it violates EPA
rules.
VH07V
Found two different Safety Data Sheets for their wipe on poly, just guessing product is old. Even though thinning not recomended would thin with mineral spirits.
Might try apply mineral spirits or acetone on rag and wipe down surface to remove streaks & ridges before sanding them away. Then use thinned product on a rag. https://www.whatsinproducts.com/files/br...0Gloss.pdf https://www.rustoleum.com/MSDS/ENGLISH/68041.pdf
Bill
10-27-2018, 05:43 AM
I also suspect it's just old. As I recall, that stuff is upwards of 70% thinner from the factory. The warning is correct, it will violate some EPA rule to thin....but that doesn't mean it won't work. What would worry me is that varnish turns thick (usually) because it's already starting curing due to some exposure to oxygen. If it's still fluid, it should be OK...but I'll bet it won't keep much longer.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
I'm not a lawyer; just my opinion. I think if you are doing this for yourself or not representing a commercial establishment, you can do what you need to do. If you decide to proceed, take a small sample and thin it 50-50 with MS and try it on a some scrap. You can also mix it with some danish oil or BLO, or tung oil. That will smooth it out and slow it down. If it hasn't dried after 24-48 hours, through it out or take it back for a refund.
10-30-2018, 10:34 AM
Some clearfication needed:
Wipe on finish simply a resin and solvent/thinner. That resin can be either varnish or polyurethane. That solvent/thinner can be mineral spirits, paint thinner, turpentine, or naphtha. Two coats of a 50/50 mix will equal one coat of poly or varnish. You never want to buy a wiping finish with more than 60% solvent/thinner. Problem is have to be a chemistry wiz to figure out what is really in commerical wiping finishes. Can you play with amount of resin to solvent/thinner? Yes you can! Mix your own say 60 or 70% resin to 40 to 30% solvent/thinner will allow you fewer coats! Oil Varnish blends usually contain resin, solvent thinner, and oil. One part resin either varnish or poly, one part solvent/thinner, one part oil. Again commerical products little more complicated but homemade follow 1/3 rule using varnish or polyurethane, solvent/thinner and your choice of oil. Would stay away from Spar or Marine varnish products that contain oil unless need UV protection for outside use whether using wipe on finish or oil varnish blend. https://www.popularwoodworking.com/techn...y-and-use/ Most people use boiled linseed oil when making a oil varnish blend and that's okay BLO, contains dryers. You can also use pure linseed, Tung, and walnut oil these are known as drying oils. Known as penetrating oils pure oils benefit in penetration and drying with addition of solvent/thnners. Thanks to life thru chemistry commerical products use semi or non drying oils they may not contain drying oils. Good example is Danish or Tung oil and life thru chemistry. https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/msds...l-MSDS.pdf https://www.paintdocs.com/docs/webPDF.js...SDS&lang=2
Bill
11-02-2018, 02:53 AM
....and that’s what I did.
I thinned it 50/50 with mineral spirits. It flashed a little faster, but it leveled out better.
VH07V
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