Befuddled: how to get a precise wedge?
#28
If you're satisfied that all that matters. But truthfully, IMO sorry no way to phrase it, that's really a hack way to fix it. I hope you'll at least fill in the gaps in the glue line.

The right way to fix it is to remake the drawers and innards. Its not hard to do and probably won't take as much time as what you did.

Rather than tapered fronts, just remake the interior slides to be perpendicular to the front.  Do this by removing the drawer slide supports and reinstalling perpendicular to the face frame. That will mean a narrower drawer, but this is not that hard to correct, either. Cut the front and backs to the appropriate width, and glue on 1/4" false front on inside surface to hide seam.

Sometimes helping hurts. Sorry.
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#29
I'd just sand 1/4" off one side of the drawer front on my edge sander then mount the false front to that.  a 1 min. job.
WoodNET... the new safespace
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#30
(11-03-2018, 03:36 PM)jgourlay Wrote: Okay, here are some photos to make clear.  First, an overall view where you can see the gap.
[Image: c00ea854-6428-4d51-b8ca-7d3f42ae0ca3-ori...fit=bounds]

The Gap is measured...about 1/4"

[Image: 84f8dae5-2524-4b91-b8ce-5a1cacfab0ab-ori...fit=bounds]

See the scribed line?  The thick (outside) part of the face that in this photo is 'above' the line is what I would have to plane off to fix this problem.  It's a LOT of material, and would leave that corner of the drawer structurally compromised.

If you look at scribed line, it goes off to the right, eventually trailing to the opposite corner.  I need to make a wedge this shape:  3" wide, 20" or so long, with this taper.  I'll glue that to the front, and it will make the drawer front parallel to the apron front.

The problem is making this wedge.
One of the drawer slides needs to be moved back.  No woodworking required.
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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#31
Be careful, the safety police will issue you a citation for not wearing shoes.
"Oh. Um, l-- look, i-- i-- if we built this large wooden badger" ~ Sir Bedevere
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#32
However you solve this let me answer your original question for future reference.
When faced with making features in long narrow stock such as this wedge or small moulding it is much more safe to start them on a larger board with enough width to easily rip on the table saw. 
Make your feature; in this case you would taper the board the appropriate width on one edge. If making small moulding, do all the routing on one edge of the board. 
When finished with the feature- it is a simple and safe process to use the table saw to rip the feature off so it falls off the waste side of the blade using the other edge of the board against the fence as a straight cut reference.
Proud maker of large quantities of sawdust......oh, and the occasional project!
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#33
(12-10-2018, 01:19 PM)Cooler Wrote: I would never cut my own shims.  Those are cheap and available at the big box stores.

If I am making a wedged motise, then I would have to cut my own:

[Image: Wedged_2D00_MT_5F00_71.jpg]

Here is how to cut wedges accurately up to about 2-7/8" long:

[Image: Wedged_2D00_MT_5F00_61.jpg]

Thanks!
MAKE: Void your warranty, violate a user agreement, fry a circuit, blow a fuse, poke an eye out...  www.makezine.com

No Good Deed Goes Unpunished

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#34
This thread should be a lesson to all...Put on some proper pants and shoes before taking shop photos!
RD
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"Boy could I have used those pocket screws!" ---Duncan Phyfe
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