tile saws

[Cooler]

I just started to do my first tile job, a floor in a half bathroom.  I bought a cheap ($140.00) Skil wet saw.  It works like a table saw.  I manually push the tiles along a fence through the blade.  

My problem is that the tiles seem to all chip at the very end of the cut.  So far I have been able to hide those chips by placing them where the cap shoes will cover them.  

I tried using an off-cut of tile to push the work piece in hopes that an even pressure would resolf this issue.  It did not.

Any tips?

The next step up in saws is a sliding table saw and I'm afraid that would experience the same issue.

A bridge saw would seem not to have this problem.  But they are expensive.  So far I hate the tile work.  It is tough on my back and my knees.  And who knew that you had to think and plan?

Any help or suggestions are welcome.

[Snipe Hunter]

About the only time I've had a need for a wet/tile saw is when cutting notches or thin strips where a snap saw doesn't have enough bite on both sides of the tile to get enough leverage to snap the tile. That being said, I try to lay out the tile where I don't run into that situation very often. Higher end wet-saws can also cause the problem you are describing too but not as bad. You won't have these problems using a traditional snap cutter. I've scrapped more tile struggling with a decent wet-saw than I have with a snap cutter.

I've found that I can do almost all my cuts with a traditional snap cutter or a 4" diamond blade on my angle grinder. It also speeds up my cutting process 100 fold. The 4" cutter works well for vent register cutouts, round toilet cutouts, shower valve holes etc. If you're careful, you can cut a very straight line and if you don't try to cut too deep on your 1st pass, it has very little chipping. You can buy a cheap angle grinder for under $25 if you don't have one.

I learned this about 2/3 of the way through my 1st tile job. In all now, I've done 6 bathrooms, 2 including tub surrounds, 3 showers and 7 floors. The only time I use the wet-saw is when nothing else will work.

I've learned that a 24" snap cutter is much easier, stronger and produces less broken tiles than a smaller one. I gave my small one away.

All jobs I've done have been with porcelain tile with the exception of the laundry room floor which is ceramic tile. Even though this saw says it shouldn't be used with porcelain, it worked just fine. Porcelain will dull the roller and mine did get dull after the last job. Lowes has replacement rollers. This is the cutter I use

I've found that the cheaper non-serrated 4" diamond blades produce less dust and chips (cut those outside) than the serrated ones. I use a blade like this.
I usually use it dry because I can't see my line when using it wet. You should still get several jobs out of one blade. Wet saws are really for cutting marble.

In all, I've found that I need a wet saw for about 1% of my cuts which would probably be for a niche in a shower where you might need long thin tiles.

Marble won't score and snap so all cuts need to be done with a wet-saw. I don't mess with marble. Looks great new but is soft, stains and wears poorly.

Hope this helps.

[tomsteve]

ive had good luck  running the tiles through face down.

[joe1086]

A dull or crappy blade can do that. Slow down the feed, or turn the tile upside down and run a scoring cut then flip and cut through. 

I have a bridge saw and it too will chip the tiles when the blade dulls.

[WoodCzech]

A dull or crappy blade can do that. Slow down the feed, or turn the tile upside down and run a scoring cut then flip and cut through. 

I have a bridge saw and it too will chip the tiles when the blade dulls.

Agreed.  I borrowed a nice MK tile saw from my friend and it had a cheap Tool Shop blade on it and it was chipping not only at the end but all throughout the cut.  I got a new Ridgid blade for it and the cuts became smooth.

[crokett™]

feed rate too fast, or blade is dull. to avoid chipout, I cut almost all the way through, then turn the tile around and finish the last 1/4 or so. that gives some support to the rest of the cut.

[Cooler]

I'm not having chip-out.  I am seeing the left and right hand portions of the tiles break apart just before the cut is complete.  So the very corners have a bit of extra on one side of the  blade and a chip taking out of the other side.  The two halves will piece together perfectly.

[Snipe Hunter]

Try a snap cutter and be done with it.

[joe1086]

When my blade dulls cutting speeds slows and tile will break about 1/4 inch from the end. That's when I know it's time for a new blade.  It's probable that your saw did not come with a high quality blade.

[Roly]

I'm not having chip-out.  I am seeing the left and right hand portions of the tiles break apart just before the cut is complete.  So the very corners have a bit of extra on one side of the  blade and a chip taking out of the other side.  The two halves will piece together perfectly.

Try cutting in from the end about 1/4" -1/2" the cut from the other end and the small split will occur on the straight section which can be cleaned up with blade.   Roly