Short molding return trim
#11
I want to make a medicine cabinet similar to this:

[Image: bfb16d2d3319fa04278d2bc23e6269bd.jpg]

It has a crown molding with a very short return.  I have no problem mitering and joining the crown molding.  I am trying to figure out how to best trim the return after glue up.  

Any suggestions?

My best guess is a Japanese pull saw.

I don't see any reasonable way to cut it to size before glue up, but if there is a safe way to do this I would prefer it.  I am loathe to cut so short a piece on my miter saw or my radial arm saw.  My hands would be too close to the blade.
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
Reply
#12
Cut the 45 on the return oversize (in length), then trim to length? That's how I do mine....

Are you trying to cut to length first, then the 45?
Reply
#13
(11-09-2018, 09:58 AM)joe1086 Wrote: Cut the 45 on the return oversize (in length), then trim to length? That's how I do mine....

Are you trying to cut to length first, then the 45?

This is what you need to do. You can either cut it a tad bit long and then sand down the flat side with a belt sander or a grinder, or try to get it exactly right and use a bit more caulk if you're short.

It is nearly impossible to do the compound miter cut on a short piece the other way around.
Reply
#14
(11-09-2018, 09:58 AM)joe1086 Wrote: Cut the 45 on the return oversize (in length), then trim to length? That's how I do mine....

Are you trying to cut to length first, then the 45?
I would cut the length first then add the returns.  

I am not following your logic for the alternative.
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
Reply
#15
How about making your molding of full thickness material and then just cope the end grain to the same profile?
Reply
#16
Cut the short returns first, off of the long (initial) length of trim.
Steve

Missouri






 
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020








Reply
#17
(11-09-2018, 09:58 AM)joe1086 Wrote: Cut the 45 on the return oversize (in length), then trim to length? That's how I do mine....

Are you trying to cut the return length first, then the 45?

To cut the return, start with an 8" piece of molding. Cut the 45. Measure the return length and cut to size (I lay the return flat on the chop saw).
Reply
#18
(11-09-2018, 11:07 AM)joe1086 Wrote: To cut the return, start with an 8" piece of molding. Cut the 45. Measure the return length and cut to size (I lay the return flat on the chop saw).

I'll try that.

Thanks everyone.
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
Reply
#19
(11-09-2018, 09:51 AM)Cooler Wrote: I want to make a medicine cabinet similar to this:

[Image: bfb16d2d3319fa04278d2bc23e6269bd.jpg]

It has a crown molding with a very short return.  I have no problem mitering and joining the crown molding.  I am trying to figure out how to best trim the return after glue up.  

Any suggestions?

My best guess is a Japanese pull saw.

I don't see any reasonable way to cut it to size before glue up, but if there is a safe way to do this I would prefer it.  I am loathe to cut so short a piece on my miter saw or my radial arm saw.  My hands would be too close to the blade.

No different than mitered returns on window aprons. Take a piece of trim long enough to miter both ends safely on the miter saw. Maybe 8" like another post mentioned. 
Then measure the projection needed to the short side of the miter. Make both cuts ,glue it up now or after the long length is installed. I glue the mitered returns first, pin nail and usually brad nail right away. No pin nailer? Tape the glued returns and nail it up after the glue dries.

mike
Reply
#20
(11-09-2018, 09:51 AM)Cooler Wrote: I don't see any reasonable way to cut it to size before glue up, but if there is a safe way to do this I would prefer it.  I am loathe to cut so short a piece on my miter saw or my radial arm saw.  My hands would be too close to the blade.

I make stacked mitered moldings on entrances, in the shop. Some of the returns around pilasters get short, 1 1/8" long, and need to be mitered on both ends.  I have a sliding table on a table saw with De Sta Co clamps that pinch the wood down right next to the blade.

Another way to cut short stuff on a miter saw is to put on a wooden fence, and pinch the work against the fence with a 18" long stick. The pibch stick applies force exactly where it needs to be, and isn't fingers.
Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)

Product Recommendations

Here are some supplies and tools we find essential in our everyday work around the shop. We may receive a commission from sales referred by our links; however, we have carefully selected these products for their usefulness and quality.