Recommendations for a Dado Blade?
#11
Hey there! I was hoping the 'Woodnet Think Tank' could recommend me a brand of 8" Dado Blade to look into? (for a 10" table saw)  Like many will say, "I'm looking for something that'll last and do a great job." "I'm not afraid to pay a little more for quality, but at same time not have to break the bank going over kill." 

I'll be using it to make joints on projects from small boxes to dresser drawers and other furniture, if that helps? Small to larger joints. I was wondering if that can be done with a single set? Is it better to have two sets that specialize in a certain range of sizes? I'll be using it for soft and hard woods alike. Do I need different choices to pick form like having multiple Band Saw or Scroll Saw Blades for the job? I don't even know? I'd just like clean cuts and for a sharp edge that'll last. Also, I'll be using it for soft woods to hard woods alike. 

I've always winged it with what I had, never actually owning a Dado blade before. Figured its about time to check that off my bucket list and do it the right way. I don't know what I want or what to look for? It's overwhelming how much is out there, and I don't know where's a good pace to begin with is. I was hoping even among brand names or internet site suggestions. If someone felt like educating me, including the pros & cons of different types or designs, what to look for compared to others out there, what to avoid, etc.  I am here to learn as much as I possibly can. I'd be very grateful for what it's worth, And of course, pass it on and help the next person as well. 

Thanks in advance, take care all.
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#12
Here's Holbren's collection from $130 to $225.  How good do you want?
https://www.holbren.com/?p=catalog&mode=...rch_in=all

I've gone through several dado sets before I got a good one from them. 

The "wobble" type are ok if all you want is notches in a 2x4 for rough carpentry.  I never trusted the one I had and sold it "barely used."

Got a Freud 6" stack type that was pretty good but when I got my Unisaw I upgraded to a good 8" from Holben and still grin when I use it.  Smooth, precise, fairly easy to set up.

The more teeth on the "kickers" the smoother the cut but the more power it takes to spin it -- I had a contractor's saw and it had a real problem starting when I tried to use the 8" dado for a 3/4" cut.  Unisaw does not have that problem 
Rolleyes

Yes, you can get a good cut with the $100 sets but you'll get more cleaner cuts with the $200 set
Big Grin
"Truth is a highway leading to freedom"  --Kris Kristofferson

Wild Turkey
We may see the writing on the wall, but all we do is criticize the handwriting.
(joined 10/1999)
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#13
I have the Freud set and have had no issues with them.

Mel
ABC(Anything But Crapsman)club member
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#14
(11-18-2018, 10:20 AM)chips ahoy Wrote: I have the Freud set and have had no issues with them.

Mel

Me too.  Though box joints are much easier and repeatable with a router table.  https://www.routerworkshop.com/boxjoints.html
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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#15
I like the systematic set I have had for ages. But there are many good brand choices. Spend from $50 to $500 as you see fit. You want something with good flat plates and plenty of carbide so they can ne sharpened a few times before needing to buy another set. What annoys me the most are the shims. The thin ones will get caught in the arbor threads and make assembly and disassembly a pita. They are steel in mine, I see lots use plastic now. I am not sure whats the better choice.
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#16
I quite liked the delta/dewalt 8” dado set; better than the 6” Freud I also tried.

Matt
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#17
How "big" is your 10" saw?

I have heard that some of the bench top/portable table saws will not accept a dado set as the arbor is too short. SawStop's braking system requires an 8" dado set.

Many years ago, I ran an old Delta 34-444 10" contractors saw with a 1.5 HP motor, with dedicated 110 volt power supply. Would easily "swing" a 6" dado set, but would bog down/stall with an 8" dado. Later, it was re-wired for a dedicated 220 volt supply and it would handle the 8" set, but at not too deep a depth of cut. My ol' Uni-saw was 3 HP/220 volt and easily handled an 8" set.

After buying a dado set, install it for a maximum width cut and make several test cuts to determine if all the chippers and cutters are the same diameter and cutting the same depth. From what I experienced and heard/hear others say, the more economical dado sets often will not cut a uniform depth. Have no idea if a uniform cut depth if warranted by manufacturers. If not, try to exchange the set, or send the set out for sharpening, having the set re-ground to the same diameter.

When re-sharpening a dado set, send out the entire set to be re-ground to maintain the uniform depth of cut.

The width of the dado is variable and limited by the cutters width and number of chippers installed on the saw. Maximum width is approximately 7/8" for most sets. For a wider dado, reposition the work.

I run either a Delta or Forrest8" carbide dado set. My preference is for the Forrest set.

A quick on-line tutorial: https://www.instructables.com/id/Setting...ado-Blade/
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#18
(11-18-2018, 12:43 PM)Ray Newman Wrote: How "big" is your 10" saw?

I have heard that some of the bench top/portable table saws will not accept a dado set as the arbor is too short. SawStop's braking system requires an 8" dado set.

Many years ago, I ran an old Delta 34-444 10" contractors saw with a 1.5 HP motor, with dedicated 110 volt power supply. Would easily "swing" a 6" dado set, but would bog down/stall with an 8" dado. Later, it was re-wired for a dedicated 220 volt supply and it would handle the 8" set, but at not too deep a depth of cut. My ol' Uni-saw was 3 HP/220 volt and easily handled an 8" set.

After buying a dado set, install it for a maximum width cut and make several test cuts to determine if all the chippers and cutters are the same diameter and cutting the same depth. From what I experienced and heard/hear others say, the more economical dado sets often will not cut a uniform depth. Have no idea if a uniform cut depth if warranted by manufacturers. If not, try to exchange the set, or send the set out for sharpening, having the set re-ground to the same diameter.

When re-sharpening a dado set, send out the entire set to be re-ground to maintain the uniform depth of cut.

The width of the dado is variable and limited by the cutters width and number of chippers installed on the saw. Maximum width is approximately 7/8" for most sets. For a wider dado, reposition the work.

I run either a Delta or Forrest8" carbide dado set. My preference is for the Forrest set.

A quick on-line tutorial: https://www.instructables.com/id/Setting-up-a-Stacked-Dado-Blade/
========================================================================

I've got the DeWalt DWE7491rs 10" Jobsite Saw and my original trusty old Craftsman 230v 12" all cast iron table saw. The craftsman has plenty of power, I've ripped ridiculous pieces of wood on that poor saw and it eats it up. Though I've never put a Dado on it. Probably should see if it can even take one before I mentioned it. The DeWalt accept's a Dado blade up to 13/16" though I haven't had the opportunity to see how it handles one. Would a 6" Dado help with anticipate any power issues, just in case?  

Fantastic information here, thanks everybody! I just spent the last hour going through and trialing off onto other sites from the links you all included.  Thank you! That one on box joints with a router table got me wondering which is more preferred for box joints? 

I do have a small router table I use for trimming and shaping edges. I may have to give that a try. I've always used a table saw in my make shift joints, so that's where I think I'm most comfortable. I have router bits I haven't even used before so it's not going to cost me anything to try it that way I guess. Just a familiarity thing. Not really sure of any pros and cons there.  

 
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#19
(11-17-2018, 09:19 PM)Wild Turkey Wrote: Here's Holbren's collection from $130 to $225.  How good do you want?
https://www.holbren.com/?p=catalog&mode=...rch_in=all

I've gone through several dado sets before I got a good one from them. 

The "wobble" type are ok if all you want is notches in a 2x4 for rough carpentry.  I never trusted the one I had and sold it "barely used."

Got a Freud 6" stack type that was pretty good but when I got my Unisaw I upgraded to a good 8" from Holben and still grin when I use it.  Smooth, precise, fairly easy to set up.

The more teeth on the "kickers" the smoother the cut but the more power it takes to spin it -- I had a contractor's saw and it had a real problem starting when I tried to use the 8" dado for a 3/4" cut.  Unisaw does not have that problem 
Rolleyes

Yes, you can get a good cut with the $100 sets but you'll get more cleaner cuts with the $200 set
Big Grin

===================================================================================

I'd like to find something about 1/2 to 3/4 the way up the food chain, so to speak. I just don't want to get by for now or be looking for better right away. No doubt I won't be doing too many serious projects immediately, as I'd like to learn to use it first. But I'm expecting that'll change quickly. It usually does for me, as I tend to get excited by all the possibilities and diving right in head first. 

Which Freud and tooth count would be a good place to start looking. I've haven't put a Dado on my DeWalt Jobsite Saw yet. But it's listed as accepting up to 13/16". So I figure it'll handle better under that since it seems like typical tools like that are usually rated at their struggling point. 

Once again, thank you ALL for the help here. It's very much appreciated.
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#20
DW7670 DeWalt works great for me.
Has a great case to keep blades organized.
Has a nice chart to select required blades, chippers and shims.
I long for the days when Coke was a soft drink, and Black and Decker was a quality tool.
Happiness is a snipe free planer
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