want to move a door way

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

I want to move a doorway in my kitchen when I remodel. The doorway is within a load bearing wall. I want to move about 1 foot over. Do you think I need to support both sides of the ceiling to do this. It is a standard door opening. The house is a ranch with a crawl attic above.  I know I have to replace the header and all that. Thanks.

[Stwood_]

How long is that wall, and what position is the door in? Middle? Left?

[Snipe Hunter]

1. Are you positive it's load bearing?

We're about to do the same thing. I popped out a little sheetrock at one end of the header to see how it was built. I was sure we were going to move (make it wider) it at the time. I found that it didn't have a header and just had 2x4 framing. It's not load bearing... But, I also found a supply duct in it. Kicking myself because I should have already known that by looking at the supply registers upstairs.
But, you can move a door in load bearing wall. You just have to install the proper header.

You can see if there's a header using a stud finder.

[6270_Productions]

I want to move a doorway in my kitchen when I remodel. The doorway is within a load bearing wall. I want to move about 1 foot over. Do you think I need to support both sides of the ceiling to do this. It is a standard door opening. The house is a ranch with a crawl attic above.  I know I have to replace the header and all that. Thanks.

Just work really really really fast. 

You should be good to go.

[mike4244]

I want to move a doorway in my kitchen when I remodel. The doorway is within a load bearing wall. I want to move about 1 foot over. Do you think I need to support both sides of the ceiling to do this. It is a standard door opening. The house is a ranch with a crawl attic above.  I know I have to replace the header and all that. Thanks.

Remove enough drywall and the siding if this is an exterior wall. Have new header material and trimmer studs  and jacks ready. The house is one story so only roof weight is considered ,not a second floor. Remove header, install new header on new trimmers and jack studs. Fasten everything and cut the 1'0" of  bottom plate off from old opening. 
Add cripples above the header and install the sheet rock. If this was a large opening like some windows then you would shore the double plates by installing a member ( 4x4 ? )
and post to  the floor at least two places. Then remove the header.
I imagine your door is 3-0 so the shoring not needed.
mike

[MstrCarpenter]

Short answer; No.
Long answer; From what you've included in your post, here's what I'm assuming; ranch style home with a 5 or 6 pitch, the wall is supporting ceiling joists that span approx. half the depth of the house. I am also assuming you don't have trusses, so these joists are also the rafter ties. FYI, rafter ties (lower third of span) keep the bottom of the rafters from spreading outward, collar ties (upper third of span) keep the tops of the rafters from blowing apart. It also wouldn't be a stretch to assume the joists are actually two pieces nailed together above the supporting wall. Since they have to be sufficiently fastened to hold the rafters together, if you support one side, then remove the wall, I seriously doubt you would see any movement at all on the other side. I actually wouldn't have a problem opening up 6-8 feet of that wall with just a 2x4 on the ceiling and a few temporary studs kicked in. All done in less time than it took to type this.

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

Short answer; No.
Long answer; From what you've included in your post, here's what I'm assuming; ranch style home with a 5 or 6 pitch, the wall is supporting ceiling joists that span approx. half the depth of the house. I am also assuming you don't have trusses, so these joists are also the rafter ties. FYI, rafter ties (lower third of span) keep the bottom of the rafters from spreading outward, collar ties (upper third of span) keep the tops of the rafters from blowing apart. It also wouldn't be a stretch to assume the joists are actually two pieces nailed together above the supporting wall. Since they have to be sufficiently fastened to hold the rafters together, if you support one side, then remove the wall, I seriously doubt you would see any movement at all on the other side. I actually wouldn't have a problem opening up 6-8 feet of that wall with just a 2x4 on the ceiling and a few temporary studs kicked in. All done in less time than it took to type this.

This is about right. The wall runs down the center of the house lengthwise. The door is about 15 feet in from the outside garage wall. I want to move it closer to that wall. I have been punching holes in the wall to explore things and will check above the door to see if there is actually a header. I will have all materials ready to go when I get ready to do this project. Thanks all.

[rwe2156]

You shouldn't need to support its only the width of a doorway, but to be safe its easy enough to do, right?

Leave the other jamb, and extend the header.

[crokett™]

Leave the other jamb, and extend the header.

that's what I'd do, leave the other jamb, cut out the existing header and have the new longer header ready to go in.

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

that's what I'd do, leave the other jamb, cut out the existing header and have the new longer header ready to go in.

Probably what I will end up doing. Thanks.