Curved top box question
#11
I have a couple of ideas for a desktop box with a curved top (front to back). The top might be frame and panel or solid wood. The box ends will be higher than the front and back and will each have a curved lip for the lid to rest on. 

What is the correct design for the tops of the front and back, and how should the lid mate them? Side views. Thing sticking out is a hinge. I do realize that option C would be tricky to cut hinge mortises for, since the depth would be different for the lid vs the box. 

[Image: i-R3GdkcQ-M.jpg]

Thanks, and Happy Thanksgiving weekend.
Best,
Aram, always learning

"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” Antoine de Saint-Exupery


Web: My woodworking photo site
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#12
Aram, here's a box in Jarrah I made some years ago for my wife. The curved lid was coopered. 

Note the ends of the box and lid are squared, and the sides flow into one another ...

[Image: Boxfordovetailsaw12.jpg]

[Image: Boxfordovetailsaw11.jpg]

Regards from Perth

Derek
Articles on furniture building, shop made tools and tool reviews at www.inthewoodshop.com
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#13
I'd vote A.

B & C would cause problems re: hinge screw length into the lid.

And there's no real reason for doing it anyway but A, as far as I know...
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#14
Hmmmm.... Looks like wishbone inspiration.  Who won?

You want the lid to slip into a curved-top sidewall rebate? If not, a reveal in the lid will allow final trimming space.

Is there a size to the box? Height of arc? This information helps in choice of lid type: F&P, edge-glued solid strips, carved solid. Frame and panel is controlled by width and depth; think of an old trunk. 

Personally, I find a variant of "C" the easiest and most attractive option, for both front and hinge lips. The lid will overlap awkward looking hinge pins, and provide a finger handle.
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#15
I'd be inclined to move the hinge down the side wall a bit and not put screws into the short grain of the angled edge of the lid.  Of the 3 choices, I like B the least.  It seems getting pieces that meet only along a narrow edge to look decent would be a challenge and the weakest of the 3.

Phil
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#16
(11-23-2018, 12:51 PM)Derek Cohen Wrote: Aram, here's a box in Jarrah I made some years ago for my wife. The curved lid was coopered. 

Note the ends of the box and lid are squared, and the sides flow into one another ...
.
.
.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Thank you. Excellent example -- and a gorgeous piece of work

(11-23-2018, 12:53 PM)Steve Altman Wrote: I'd vote A.

B & C would cause problems re: hinge screw length into the lid.

And there's no real reason for doing it anyway but A, as far as I know...

Probably right.

(11-23-2018, 12:56 PM)hbmcc Wrote: You want the lid to slip into a curved-top sidewall rebate? If not, a reveal in the lid will allow final trimming space.

Is there a size to the box? Height of arc? This information helps in choice of lid type: F&P, edge-glued solid strips, carved solid. Frame and panel is controlled by width and depth; think of an old trunk. 

Personally, I find a variant of "C" the easiest and most attractive option, for both front and hinge lips. The lid will overlap awkward looking hinge pins, and provide a finger handle.

Yes, a curved rabbet. The bottom of the lid will (in my current conceptions) not be visible when closed. This presents some interesting construction challenges for fitting the under-side, since you can't just drop it on the box and see the gaps.

The size and amount of curve totally depends on what design I go with, and what boards suck me in when I start. So, dunno yet. As I mentioned in my original post, I am considering a coopered top as well was frame and panel. 

To make it even harder, most of my ideas involve a two-piece top hinged on each side, and meeting in the middle -- or even off-center. I'm still playing with design possibilities.

(11-23-2018, 01:24 PM)Phil S. Wrote: I'd be inclined to move the hinge down the side wall a bit and not put screws into the short grain of the angled edge of the lid.  Of the 3 choices, I like B the least.  It seems getting pieces that meet only along a narrow edge to look decent would be a challenge and the weakest of the 3.

Phil

Phil -- could you elaborate? Sorry, I'm not picturing what you mean by "move hinge down the side wall."

Thanks for all the replies.
Best,
Aram, always learning

"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” Antoine de Saint-Exupery


Web: My woodworking photo site
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#17
I like Phil's idea, especially if you decide on the two part lid.

I probably shouldn't try to explain Phil's suggestion, but...using Derek's box as an example, you could have the lid start 1/4" down on the side.
"I tried being reasonable..........I didn't like it." Clint Eastwood
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#18
(11-24-2018, 07:52 AM)Bill Holt Wrote: I probably shouldn't try to explain Phil's suggestion, but...using Derek's box as an example, you could have the lid start 1/4" down on the side.

Thanks. You just did explain it. 
Yes
Best,
Aram, always learning

"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” Antoine de Saint-Exupery


Web: My woodworking photo site
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#19
(11-23-2018, 01:24 PM)Phil S. Wrote: I'd be inclined to move the hinge down the side wall a bit and not put screws into the short grain of the angled edge of the lid.  Of the 3 choices, I like B the least.  It seems getting pieces that meet only along a narrow edge to look decent would be a challenge and the weakest of the 3.

Phil

The more I think about this, the more it makes sense. Not only for the reason you mention, but also it would make the build a little easier. Thanks!
Best,
Aram, always learning

"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” Antoine de Saint-Exupery


Web: My woodworking photo site
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#20
(11-25-2018, 03:14 PM)Aram Wrote: The more I think about this, the more it makes sense. Not only for the reason you mention, but also it would make the build a little easier. Thanks!

Sounds like you got my lame description sorted out. 
Smile Hope it works out for you.  Post some pics when you get it together.

Phil
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