110v Wiring help needed

[shoottmx]

My electrician is crazy busy and I need to get a 110v in-wall heater installed before Monday. I need to tap into a receptacle on a common wall in the next room to power the heater, problem is I'm not sure how to properly connect the wiring.

The receptacle is middle of the run so all 4 poles are in use. How should I go about making the connection so that it's safe and meets code?

Thanks,  g

[srv52761]

My electrician is crazy busy and I need to get a 110v in-wall heater installed before Monday. I need to tap into a receptacle on a common wall in the next room to power the heater, problem is I'm not sure how to properly connect the wiring.

The receptacle is middle of the run so all 4 poles are in use. How should I go about making the connection so that it's safe and meets code?

Thanks,  g

Me... remove the outlet
Remove the box
Fish the new wires
Install an old work 4" box, (edit: the deepest 4" box that would fit.. hate squeezing wires) inserting the wires first
Connect the appropriate wires with a pigtail for the current receptacle (would probably add a duplex to not have to worry about a 1 device face plate)
Wire the heater (with an outlet or other method to provide local disconnect )

[crokett™]

Me... remove the outlet
Remove the box
Fish the new wires
Install an old work 4" box, inserting the wires first
Connect the appropriate wires with a pigtail for the current receptacle (would probably add a duplex to not have to worry about a 1 device face plate)
Wire the heater (with an outlet or other method to provide local disconnect )

Exactly.  A close quarters hacksaw blade will slip between the stud and the existing box and cut the nails holding the box to the stud.

[shoottmx]

Install an old work 4" box, (edit: the deepest 4" box that would fit.. hate squeezing wires)  inserting the wires first
Connect the appropriate wires with a pigtail for the current receptacle (would probably add a duplex to not have to worry about a 1 device face plate)

srv52761,
Thanks, never thought about installing a larger box. So you're suggesting adding a second outlet just to simplify covering the larger hole in the wall?

crokett,
thanks, I just happen to have one!

g

[brianwelch]

My electrician is crazy busy and I need to get a 110v in-wall heater installed before Monday. I need to tap into a receptacle on a common wall in the next room to power the heater, problem is I'm not sure how to properly connect the wiring.

The receptacle is middle of the run so all 4 poles are in use. How should I go about making the connection so that it's safe and meets code?

Thanks,  g

May not be what you want to hear, but many 110v heaters have pretty close to a 15a draw. Should this not be on its own dedicated circuit?
Good luck

[shoottmx]

May not be what you want to hear, but many 110v heaters have pretty close to a 15a draw. Should this not be on its own dedicated circuit?
Good luck

No doubt you're correct. This is on the second floor so would be difficult to do.

Thanks, g

[brianwelch]

No doubt you're correct. This is on the second floor so would be difficult to do.

Thanks, g

accessible attic? we are lucky that we have one to drop a feeder down from...

[daddo]

It needs it's own circuit. I used to install those for the elect co-op and they all had to have their own circuit.

[TDKPE]

You can use a duplex receptacle that can accept more than 1 conductor on each pole to replace the existing, which is probably back-stabbed type anyway (and should be tossed on general principle).  Spec grade, with back wiring and side screws that run down clamps.  Or pigtail them so you only have one conductor to each pole, which is my preference.  Makes it easy to stuff the box, then install the receptacle which will only have three wires to it.

But as the last two guys said, that heater almost certainly has to be on its own circuit.  It's a continuous load, and almost certainly will draw substantial current since it's only 120V, though that depends on wattage (1000W is common).  I think space heaters are also mentioned in the NEC as requiring their own branch circuit, though I don't have a copy with me at the moment.  And the other receptacles in the chain are probably back-stab types, too, and they don't do well with high current for sustained periods.

If running a new circuit, you can also go to 240V and keep the wire small.  Same two conductors (plus ground), but twice the power for the same current, though a small room like a bathroom probably won't need a lot of heat.

[MstrCarpenter]

I agree on a dedicated circuit too. Also consider that if the receptacle in question is in fact back wired (stabbed in connections) than the others on that circuit are probably the done same way. I think even if it does work, chasing down an open circuit may be in your future.